Whilst in neutral and in gear there seems to be a really bad clicking its come about since the chain came off and wrapped round front sprocket also the back wheel locks up often while pushing the bike. The bike is a semi automatic 110cc pit bike. Thanks

You are operating the motorcycle on its center stand and in gear without a load so you are going to get a huge amount of lash from the chain and more importantly in the clutch assembly. It's really not a good idea to start it up and run it through the gears without a load on it, just not wise.

If you want the motorcycle to survive the cold months purchase some fuel stabilizer here is a web site with a good one page read.

http://www.thefarm.org/charities/i4at/surv/sta-bil.htm

Add the correct amount to what the tank has in it (you can guess) put the cap back on an shaker it up a little my sloshing the gas around a little to get a good mix.Fire up the motorcycle and leave it in neutral run it long enough to get it up to temperature and have the fuel stabilizer go through the fuel system. Shut it off and the only thing you need to attend to is the battery make sure it has a charge in it by purchasing a trickle charger. I leave my bike alone all winter after using the fuel stabilizer in it for a tank of gas. It's parked in my studio under cover and left till spring, the room never gets below 20c or 68F and charge the battery in the spring.

Cheers have a great day

I doubt that the chain was jumping the sprocket. A chain that loose would wrap up around the front sprocket and lock up the engine and/or bust up the center case. It sounds like the bike has some serious transmission problems. The bike probably has bent shift forks and a few busted gear teeth and possibly broken dogs on a slider gear. The bloke ripped you off. The wheel being out of line is not a factor. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

check chain tension and that the aft sprocket lines up directly with the front first, if its not that then take the front cover off the countershaft main gear drive and check for play maybe a bearing is worn out..

Have you checked the front final drive chain sprocket. These sprockets are quite often neglected since they are so difficult to get to. You must pull the inner prirmary to get to it. The old four speed transmission is a tough ****** and I don't recall ever seeing one fail unless it was run with no oil. Check your final drive chain. Shine a flashlight behind the inner primary and check the teeth on front sprocket.

Assuming the drive chain and sprockets are in good condition.(check these first)
This sounds like and internal gearbox problem, a bearing has collapsed or a tooth has broken of a gear.
Riding it like this will cause more damage. The gear box will likely need to be stripped

start of by running chain over top of rear sprocket so sprocket turns anticlockwise around and over top of top cog then between top and bottom cog so chain is round back of bottom cog then under bottom of front chain wheel up and around antyclockwise through front gear mech if you have one then join 2 ends together with link extractor.

This one's a little tricky cause it could be a few things.
I'll try suggestions in the order of probability

• Worn out chain & sprockets.(Or chain too tight or has a tight spot) Check this by raising the rear wheel off the ground,in neutral & spin the back wheel. If the chain & or sprockets are worn you'll feel it & hear it when you spin the wheel. If it has a tight spot,set the chain tension at the tight spot & lubricate well
• Loose engine mounting bolts. If loose re- tighten.
• Worn front sprocket shaft bearing. to check this(if chain seems ok) Remove the chain(note joining link direction of the circlip. The closed end faces the direction of rotation)Bike in neutral, turn the sprocket shaft by hand. It should turn smoothly.If it is notchy thats not good. It is a major job to change & can be expensive(So i hope its the chain &/or sprockets)
• Broken tooth on a gear in the gearbox. I hope not as again a more difficult & expensive repair.

Hope this helps you narrow down your problem
Regards Andrew Porrelli

Below are generic things to look for if getting a used bike.

Does the engine start easy and idle smoothly? Does it accelerate without hesitation?
Does the clutch engage and disengage smoothly?
Is the clutch lever easy to pull?
Any oil or coolant fluids leaking after a ride?
Do all gages work? Lights, horn and flashers?
Any red lights on the gages lit up? Any computer codes flashing?
Do front and back brakes operate and stop smoothly?
Is the motor oil pretty clean or really dirty? (Sign of how well the owner has cared for the bike).
Is the oil "white-ish"? (water in the oil. If motor is water cooled it's usually bad water pump seals).
Any funny sounds from the gear box? Anywhere else?
Does it shift smoothly up and down the full gear range? Neutral light come on properly?
Sprockets still have rounded tips not pointed? Well lubricated chain?
How much adjustment is left in the chain?
Good tires? How old is the battery? All lights work properly?
Is the upholstery good? Plastics cracked or broken?
Gas tank badly rusted inside? Do the wheels run true or weave?
Do the forks look bent from a side view or front view?

This behavior is the symptom that your clutch plates are getting worn out. Since power is transmitted from the cam shaft to the front sprocket (smaller dia) is better at lower gears but once the rpm increases the clutch plates do not catch up with the cams rotation, hence slipping at higher gears & in between 4th & 5th gears the pulling power of the engine seems to go to neutral before engaging again. Check your clutch plates as well as the sprocket-chain- rear sprocket for wearing out of the gear teeth & replace if required. You will get back full power & acceleration as when the bike was new.............sodeep

Unhook the master link and lay the chain in the concrete. Next, hold one end to the concrete and sort of push the chain towards the stationary end. The object is to push the chain together as opposed to stretching it apart. Mark the concrete at the location of the shortened end. Now again hold the stationary end firm and this time stretch the chain to its' fullest length. Mark the concrete again at the end of the stretched chain. If the distance between the marks is over one inch the chain should be replaced.
.
Look at the teeth of both sprockets. Are the teeth rounded on the end or are the teeth forming a pointed looking end? If rounded, then the sprocket is good. If pointed, then the sprocket is bad.
Bad sprockets can ruin a good chain. The exception to the one inch rule is a chain that is rusted and no longer limber. Replace a rusted chain. Remember, always install the master link clip with the blunt end facing the direction of chain travel.
.
Please rate this solution, Thanks.