Question about 2002 Honda CR 250 R
I am getting a loud rattle from my 2002 cr250 at idle and part throttle. It seems to be the power valve flapping. I have read other people having this problem.Some say it is "normal" while one site claimed Honda told him it was a mismatched cylinder install. Mine is stock.It is leaving a wear mark on the cylinder where the valve comes to rest. Thanks
Hi, Susanarcher I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
7. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
8. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Head Gasket---HISS
11. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
13. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
14. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
15. Solid Lifters---TICK
17. Connecting Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
2005 CR250 2 stroke Engine Rattle
CR250 engine noise
CR250 2002 2003 pdf
Honda CR250R Owner Manual Competition Handbook
Posted on Jun 26, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The problem is an air leak leaning the fuel mix. The idle speed starts going up a ramp until it is wide open. The valves no longer seating well is a possible cause as is carb manifold gaskets, rings and a cylinder head not torqued down tight.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
SOURCE: 2002 HONDA SHADOW ACE 750 CARB
It sounds like you may have or will be jetting your carbs. I did this using the directions with the kit and used the Clyman manual for this bike to show me step by step how to remove the carborator. You will only need to attach 2 of the 4 hoses on your carb. syncronizer. If I remember right, you need to remove the bolt-on cooling fins to expose the engine block. The is a black screw or bolt that you take out and screw the threaded metal adapter of the sync tool. Be careful using the sync tool. Be very light on the throttle or the vacuum in the cylinder will **** in the mercury from the sync tool - not good. The problem you are stating on idle & backing off sometimes happens when the carbs are running rich (too much fuel) Hope that gets you in the right direction.
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
SOURCE: Valve adjustment
Hi CX'er, This is getting basic, but in a 4 stroke engine there are 2 TDC spots . One being the completion of the exhaust stroke, and the second is the completion of the compression stroke . Give her one more turn and the valves will close . I hope that you are using the 17mm port under the radiator to turn the engine . It is the same as the port you are using to view the flywheel markings . Before I begin for the first time, I re-torque the heads . You must use a torque wrench, or risk breaking a bolt ! If you do it afterwards, your valve clearance settings will change . Accuracy is very important, check for tight drag, and check with next thinner for free clearance . Too tight can burn an exhaust valve . I set them to a tight drag, about .001 under, but I verify the clearance, twice . When you do the left side, don't forget to loosen the 10mm cam chain adjusting nut one turn (in front of the flywheel view port). Listen for the little click as the tension spring snaps in to take up the slack, and tighten, that's it . Make 'em purr, J
Posted on Nov 28, 2009
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