Question about BMW R 1150 GS Adventure Motorcycles

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Bmw 2001, 1150GS rear drive housing cover part no.33112330035 what is the original depth from the inside lip to the suface that the shim No.33122310551 sits on [brg.recess without shim]

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Hi, Martin_asqui for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. If necessary, transport your bike to the dealer or shop and have a professional technician take it for a test drive, if it is in running condition, and give you a written estimate of repairs and answer any specific questions you may have about your issue. For more information about your issue please visit the website below. Good luck and have a nice day. BMW Motorcycle Parts Fiche OEM BMW Motorcycle Parts online 1970 present BMW¬rack=1
Hints and advice for BMW bike motorcycle owners K1 K75 K100 K1100 bulb...

Posted on Dec 30, 2015


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The first thing i would do is get the fuel pump out and clean the fine gause . Next fit a new fuel filter. If that does not fix it check fuel pressure

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SOURCE: I have lost the brake fluid on the rear of bmw

open the bleeder, and let stand, gravity should do the rest, unless youve got some sort of blockage.

Posted on Oct 27, 2009

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SOURCE: how to remove the 2002

frist remove you seat and side covers there isnt much to take off but you need to. after that you'll see you fuel lines on the right hand side i pretty sure the 03 have the clip together lines kinda like a boat gas tank but smaller undo them. there will be a bolt on both sides of the tank remove them and slowly left the tank off
Good Luck

Posted on Aug 12, 2010

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Could be the pinion/bearing assembly has moved forward in the nose part of the housing and is prevented from being pushed back into position because the teeth are no longer meshing but butting against the crown wheel.
Jacking a wheel off the ground and turning the mechanism should line everything up and allow the pinion and bearing to go back into position. Refitting the retainer/oil seal housing with any shims should leave the original amount of pinion shaft protruding.

If that isn't the case it would indicate a more in-depth examination is needed, either by removing the pan or drawing out the half-shafts and removing the final drive unit.

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P.S. I cant recommend doing this job by yourself get some help from someone who has done this before, 9 out of 10 people who try this repair will destroy the rear end, if the pinino depth is to deep you will brake the ring gear if to shallow the rear end will make so much noise you can't drive it.


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Shims, are to space the starter drive gear away from the flywheel. The shim is inserted between the engine block, and the starter. The thicker the shim, the more the starter drive gear is further away from the flywheel.

Starter housings are machined from the factory, where they were made. No two housings come out the same, for the machined pad, where the starter bolts to the engine block.
The difference is minimal, granted, but thousandths of an inch count in this area.

It's generally a trial an error situation. This is why there are shim packs. Packs of shims with varying thicknesses.
Rule of Thumb, is generally that the starter drive gear, is 3/32nd's of an inch away from the flywheel.
If you hear a metallic grinding kind of sound, the starter is too close. A thicker shim is needed.

I suspect your problem is the starter drive itself. Definitely sounds like it from your description.
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This rebuilt starter has a bad Bendix drive.

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