Question about Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide Standard Motorcycles

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How too remove primery drive gear of engine, does nut turn or pull of

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A nut will turn off

Posted on Apr 05, 2011

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1 Answer

How do I remove and replace the starter bendix gear on a 1987 Harley Davidson FLHTC Electra Glide with original Evolution 80 cu in engine?


Hi Lewis, first thing disconect the battery negative cable first. If you have a dry clutch remove primary cover and if memory serves me correctly " I THINK " you can wiggle out the starter drive and shaft pass the ring gear on clutch pack while pushing in on the throw out fork, no promises that stuff goes back almost 30 years and my memory is a little fuzzy. If it won't come out that way your going to have to pull the starter, solenoid, and gear housing. Disconnect all wires and cables, draw a wiring diagram so you know where everything goes back to each stud. Pulling the solenoid, starter motor and gear housing are pretty straight forward. Remove the chrome starter end cover, the bracket that it screws into is held in place by two very long studs that go completely through the starter motor and screws into the gear housing. Completely loosen these studs. !!!! WARNING!!!! when removing the starter leave the studs in the motor and grab the starter at both ends and pull it away from the gear housing, you do not want that starter coming apart which is extremely easy to do trust me. If you can remove either the starter or the gear drive housing or solenoid any of these as a unit even better. Now you can get the starter drive out. Put the shaft in a vise and unscrew the the two sided nut clockwise it has reverse threads pull of the old starter drive off and install the new one piece a cake. Now if you have a wet clutch drain the primary first then remove then cover and see if its doo-able from that side first. Take your time inspect everything you touch and reassemble in reverse order and when securing the studs and nuts tighten firmly but do not overtighten all the torque specs are in inch lbs which calculate out to between 2-4 foot lbs be carefull and good luck.

Apr 07, 2015 | Harley Davidson Motorcycles

1 Answer

I need the torque settings for the complete primery drive and starter motor


Hi Laurie, the values are as follows: 1/4" bolts 10 ft lbs.-- 5/16" bolts 20 ft lbs.--3/8" bolts 35 ft lbs.---clutch hub nut 80 ft lbs.---compensating sproket 165 ft lbs. Good luck

Mar 11, 2015 | Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide...

1 Answer

Gears loose will not shift


    • 1Remove the bolts and nuts that secure the center console around the gear shifter with a 1/4-inch drive ratchet, a metric socket and a Phillips head screwdriver. This will expose the rubber boot. Pull back any carpet as needed to make room for the rubber boot to be pulled over the gear shifter.
    • 2 Turn the gear shifter knob counterclockwise to remove it from the top of the gear shifter. Pull the rubber boot over the gear shifter and place it on the floorboard.
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    • 3 Loosen and remove the retaining bolts at the base of the gear shifter with the ratchet and a metric socket.
    • 4 Remove the gear shifter retaining ring with the pliers. Once the retaining ring is removed, you will now be able to pull the gear shifter lever straight up through the console hole. Inspect the bushing on the pivoted area at the bottom of the gear shifter lever. Remove all of the damaged bushing from the bottom of the gear shifter lever with the pliers.
    • 5 Place the new bushing over the pivotal ball end of the gear shifter lever. Hold the gear lever with one hand and twist the bushing onto the ball end with your other hand until the bushing locks in place.
    • 6 Reverse the same steps as outlined above to reinstall the gear shifter assembly and the center console assembly. Make sure that all of the retaining nuts and bolts are tight.


Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_8389358_tighten-loose-gear-shift.html

Apr 21, 2014 | Mongoose Exile 26 Men's Full-Suspension...

1 Answer

Do I have to remove crankshaft pulley to remove engine front cover (timing cover) on a 2008 mercury mountaineer all wheel drive 4.0L


If it is an aluminium housing I would say you have to . If there is a nut holding the harmonic balancer on use a 1/2 rattle gun(impact) and undo nut . You will not be able to hold the crank any other way. Use a harmonic balance puller to pull the pulley. Wat6ch for the crank key as you pull it off. I think that there may be a more sinster problem awaiting you as the cover covers the chain or gears and has no water behind it except what leaks through the back of the cover from corrosion holes behind the water pump impellor.. Do the nut up with the impact gun. You may have to remove the radiator to get enough space to work on the cover.

Mar 31, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I NEED THE STEPS OF TAKING OUT A TRANSMISSION OUT OF MY 1994 HONDA ACCORD


  1. Remove the hub cap and bolt the wheel back in.
  2. Punch out the spindle nut lock and loosen the spindle nut.
  3. Raise and support the vehicle and block the rear tires.
  4. Remove the wheel.
  5. Drain the transmission.
  6. Remove the all the damper fork nuts and all the brake hose nuts on the damper fork and on the shock absorber.
  7. Remove the damper fork.
  8. Remove the driver side and passenger side front suspension flange nut inside the engine bay and slide the upper arm out
  9. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the passenger side and remove the passenger drive shaft spline from the hub.
  10. Separate the inner driveshaft from the transmission with a large screw driver (or crow bar).
  11. Remove the passenger side drive shaft. Do not pull.
  12. Remove the front radius rod.

Under the car.

  1. Remove the center beam.
  2. Remove the torque converter cover, the control cable holder and remove shift control cable.
  3. Remove the drive plate bolts and four transmission housing bolts.

Inside the engine bay.

  1. Place a transmission jack or several small jacks under the transmission.
  2. Disconnect all the electrical connectors.
  3. Remove the speed sensor gear shaft but leave the hoses on.
  4. Remove the distributor and mark the distributor shaft with a razor or a diamond etcher, usually on the head side or both.
  5. Remove the throttle control lever cable.
  6. Remove the transmission cooler hoses mounting bolts and their 4 washers.
  7. Remove the starter.
  8. Remove the all the transmission housing bolts.
  9. If the transmission won't come out remove a horizontal side engine mounting bolt and raise oil pan (with a wooden block between the oil pan and jack) until the transmission clears.
  10. Lower the transmission into the transmission jack.
  11. With the driver side front suspension flange out of the way, turn the steering towards the right then remove the driver side inner drive shaft with a large flathead screw driver.
  12. Lower the low profile transmission jack and slide the transmission and the jack from under the car. Don't loose the two dowel pins.
  13. Block all transmission fluid ports from leakage and dust and dirt.
  14. If repairs are being done repair the transmission in a dust, sand free environment.

Jul 30, 2011 | Honda Accord Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I HAVE A HARLEY SPORSTER 1200, WILL NOT SHIFT OUT OG GEAR, STAYS IN HIGH GEAR....HELP PLEASE..............


Sounds like the shifter pawl is broken. This is common in Sportsters. You'll have to pull your primary drive to repair it.

Disconnect your battery, drain the primary, loosen the primary chain adjuster and remove the outer primary cover. Take the engine sprocket nut loose. Remove the snap ring in the clutch assemble and remove the throwout bearing. Remove the mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on. This nut has LEFT HANDED threads. Lift the engine sprocket, primary chain, and the clutch assembly out of the primary case.

Now, you can get to the shifting mechanism and determine what the problem is.

Good luck
Steve

Aug 31, 2010 | Harley Davidson XL 1200 L Sporster Low...

1 Answer

I can't locate the starter solenoid on my 2000 chevy silverado. Where is it?


(Starter) Solenoid - Removal & Installation
  1. Remove the starter motor.
  2. Reposition the M-terminal stud weather cover.
  3. Clean the epoxy coating from the M-terminal stud.
  4. Loosen the M-terminal stud nut.
  5. Remove the cable from the M-terminal stud.
  6. Remove the solenoid bolts.
  7. Separate the solenoid from the housing and unhook the solenoid plunger from the drive gear lever.
  8. Note that the spring (3) is positioned against the drive gear lever (1) and the drive gear lever is placed inside the solenoid plunger loop (2).

    335574b.jpg

    Fig. Spring (3) is positioned against the drive gear lever (1) and the drive gear lever is placed inside the solenoid plunger loop (2)
  9. Remove the solenoid housing.
  10. If necessary, remove the solenoid plunger and spring.
To install:
  1. If necessary, install the solenoid plunger and spring.
  2. Using Three Bond silicone 1207B, GM P/N 97720043, seal the starter solenoid attachment area.
    WARNING Make sure that the drive gear lever (1) is properly installed into the solenoid plunger (2) loop. Improper installation of the drive gear lever will cause an abnormal or no operation condition of the starter.
    9d089a5.jpg

    Fig. Make sure that the drive gear lever (1) is properly installed into the solenoid plunger (2) loop
  3. Install the solenoid, making sure to insert the drive gear lever (1) into the solenoid plunger (2) loop, perform the following:
    1. Pull the gear lever (1) out away from the starter housing and pull the plunger (2) out away from the solenoid.
    2. Tip the solenoid and insert the lever into the loop, push the solenoid against the housing.
  4. Install the solenoid bolts and tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  5. Wipe the excess silicone pressed out during the solenoid installation from around the base of the solenoid to make a weather proof seal.
  6. Install the cable to the M-terminal stud between the washers and terminal nut.
  7. Tighten the M-terminal stud nut and tighten the nut to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
  8. Using Three Bond silicone 1207B, GM P/N 97720043, seal the M-terminal stud connection.
  9. Reposition the M-terminal stud weather cover.
  10. Bench test the starter in a free-run condition prior to installation.
  11. Install the starter motor.

  1. Remove the starter motor.
  2. Reposition the M-terminal stud weather cover.
  3. Clean the epoxy coating from the M-terminal stud.
  4. Loosen the M-terminal stud nut.
  5. Remove the cable from the M-terminal stud.
  6. Remove the solenoid bolts.
  7. Separate the solenoid from the housing and unhook the solenoid plunger from the drive gear lever.
  8. Note that the spring (3) is positioned against the drive gear lever (1) and the drive gear lever is placed inside the solenoid plunger loop (2).

    fe8b46d.jpg
    Fig. Spring (3) is positioned against the drive gear lever (1) and the drive gear lever is placed inside the solenoid plunger loop (2)
  9. Remove the solenoid housing.
  10. If necessary, remove the solenoid plunger and spring.
To install:
  1. If necessary, install the solenoid plunger and spring.
  2. Using Three Bond silicone 1207B, GM P/N 97720043, seal the starter solenoid attachment area.
    WARNING Make sure that the drive gear lever (1) is properly installed into the solenoid plunger (2) loop. Improper installation of the drive gear lever will cause an abnormal or no operation condition of the starter.
    257f66c.jpg

    Fig. Make sure that the drive gear lever (1) is properly installed into the solenoid plunger (2) loop
  3. Install the solenoid, making sure to insert the drive gear lever (1) into the solenoid plunger (2) loop, perform the following:
    1. Pull the gear lever (1) out away from the starter housing and pull the plunger (2) out away from the solenoid.
    2. Tip the solenoid and insert the lever into the loop, push the solenoid against the housing.
  4. Install the solenoid bolts and tighten the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  5. Wipe the excess silicone pressed out during the solenoid installation from around the base of the solenoid to make a weather proof seal.
  6. Install the cable to the M-terminal stud between the washers and terminal nut.
  7. Tighten the M-terminal stud nut and tighten the nut to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
  8. Using Three Bond silicone 1207B, GM P/N 97720043, seal the M-terminal stud connection.
  9. Reposition the M-terminal stud weather cover.
  10. Bench test the starter in a free-run condition prior to installation.
  11. Install the starter motor.

Hope helped with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.

Nov 04, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet Silverado

1 Answer

On my 88HD Fxstc the starter will not ingage.starter spins ok bat. OK How can I fix I lost my shop manul


If the starter spins but the engine does not turn over, usually it's a bad starter drive (Bendix). On the 88 year model there is a solenoid that pulls the starter drive into engagement with the ring gear on the outer clutch drum. Inspect this linkage. Look for a broken pin that holds the return spring on (return spring in the bottom of the primary) or a broken "Y" piece that moves the starter drive outward. If the starter bendix is bad, it will turn freely in either direction while holding the shaft from turning. It should turn freely in one direction and lock up in the other. This test is not conclusive as you cannot put the same amount of resistance on the drive as your engine can. The little nut on the end of the starter shaft has left handed threads on it. Chuck the starter drive in a vise with aluminum jaw protectors on it and remove the nut. The starter drive (Bendix) will slide right off. Buy a good replacement, not the cheap Chinese junk. Accel or OEM

Sep 20, 2009 | Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard...

1 Answer

1986 170 horse mercruiser lower unit,water pump destroyed .100 inch play between timken bearing and race, driver shaft wobbles. to dissasemble lower unit in which order do you remove shafts, shifter shaft,...


Gear cases are easy to take apart with the proper tools.I suggest buying a Clymer Manuel. it has a list of special tools. TEAR DOWN PROCEDURE(1) remove the propeller shaft bearing carrier assembly by removing the carrier ring. takes a special tool. (2)the bearing carrier depending on the running condition will become stuck in the gear case. there is a special tool for removing the bearing carrier out of the gear case.(3) the bearing carrier houses the reverse gear make sure the reverse gear was removed when the bearing carrier came out. (4)look inside of gear case you will see the propshaft assembly, drive shaft with pinion gear assembly, and the forward gear.(5) on the drive shaft pinion gear you will see a nut. there is a close clearance between that nut and the clutch dog on the propshaft assembly. it takes a special wrench to get this nut off plus a spline tool to hold the drive shaft as your turning the nut off. you can make them both but be careful.(6) there are two different styles for this model of stern drive a "R" and a "MR" the "MR" drive has a retaining nut for bearing preload for the drive shaft. need special tool to remove it. the "R" drive has a spring loaded pin on the top of the driveshaft to control bearing preload. no special tool need to remove shaft after pinion nut removal.(7) once the driveshaft is removed the propshaft comes out by lining up the shift shaft just right. (8) turn the shift shaft until the shift crank is at a right angle to the propeller shaft. you can't see the shift crank because it is behind the forward gear you have to go by experience or feel. once you have the shift crank lined up properly push the propshaft to the left side of the gear case housing then pull out at that angle. GOAL propshaft "clutch dog actuating shaft" in basic terms, is like a hook that grabs onto the shift crank. you unhook it by moving the propshaft tip to the side, causing the back of the propshaft inside the housing, to unhook and move away the the shift crank. it sounds complicated but once you do it you see how easy it is.(9) once you have the propshaft and the forward gear out you can leave the shift shaft inside.there is no need to remove it. have fun

Sep 06, 2009 | Boating

2 Answers

Rear drive shaft seal leaking


Yes, but you will need to mark the yoke position and exact number of turns to remove the nut or you will change ring and pinion gear lash setting when re-installing it. You can use a large pipe wrench to hold the yoke still while tightening, or get a special tool made for that.

May 04, 2009 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

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