Clutch pedal travel is excessive. Sits about 2"

Definition of Diagnostic Trouble Code C1226 Buick: Right Front Excessive Wheel Speed Variation Cadillac: Right Front Excessive Wheel Speed Variation Chevrolet: Right Front Excessive Wheel Speed Variation Chrysler: Brake Pedal Travel Sensor Circuit Dodge: Brake Pedal Travel Sensor Circuit Ford: Brake warning indicator output short circuit to ground. GMC: Right Front Excessive Wheel Speed Variation Jeep: Brake Pedal Travel Sensor Circuit Lincoln: Brake warning indicator output short circuit to ground. Mazda: Brake warning indicator output short circuit to ground. Mercury: Brake warning indicator output short circuit to ground. Mitsubishi: FR inlet valve Oldsmobile: Right Front Excessive Wheel Speed Variation Pontiac: Right Front Excessive Wheel Speed Variation Saturn: Right Front Excessive Wheel Speed Variation Toyota: Open or short in hydraulic brake booster solenoid circuit (SA2/SPC/SPFR/SPFL/SMV1/SMV2/SBAL)

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FORD Technical Service Bulletin PERCEIVED EXCESSIVE PEDAL TRAVEL MAY BE FELT WHILST VEHICLE IS STATIONARY AND ENGINE IS AT IDLE. IF A CONSTANT FORCE IS APPLIED TO THE BRAKE PEDAL IN THE CONDITIONS ABOVE, THE BRAKE PEDAL MOVES SLOWLY TOWARDS THE FLOOR. THIS IS NOT A FAULT BUT IS A CHARACTERISTIC OF A TANDEM BOOSTER. NO PARTS REQUIRE CHANGING DUE TO THIS BEHAVIOR

the brake fluid has drain out of clutch master cylinder fill with brake fluid reservoir is next to the brake master cylinder. pump pedal if spongy then bleed system with a 2 ounce syringe at slave cylinder loosen screw and force fluid to the master this will push all the air out.

Try bleeding the brake sys

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1-disconnect battery. 2- remove all lower dash plastic panels. 3- disconnect all plugs on steering coloumn. 4- remove shear bolts on steering coloumn, easy with a long 8" sharp chisel (get 2 x new shear bolts £0.50p each). 5-loosen & remove bolt at steering rack in drivers footwell, mark position of spline before removing this makes it east to refit (tipex). 6- pull steering coloumn out towards you & it will slide off the bush quite easy. 7- loosen clutch cable adjustment & remove cable nipple at pedal. 8-remove clutch pedal. 9- pull brake pedal out of plastic insert, this will break there is no way to remove this without breaking the plastic clip. get a new brake pedal clip insert for a Mk 3 golf £4 its the same (dont let VW sell you a new pedal) 10- remove 5 x nuts holding pedal box to bulkhead/brake servo. 11- cut 2 x cable ties holding throttle wiring & disconnetc plug above heater on drivers side. 12- push/pull brake servo slightly out of bulk head. 13- remove pedal box.
Cause of the problem- The clutch bracket is only held to the pedal box with 2 x spot welds & a 10mm tack on the top corner.
Repair- Fully Weld the clutch bracket to the pedal box. Great repair.
refitting reverse of above.
Duration around 6/8 hours Less if you get the spare parts before you start.
I wasted time trying to remove the brake pedal without breaking the clip impossible to do even with theVW tool. £4 on a new clip is well worth it.

you ride the clutch excessively ,and slip the clutch between changes ,i can make a clutch last for 200,000kms ,but i have customer who has a new clutch every 6 mths to a year and he does just over 1000kms in that time .he will not use first gear and doesnt change down just rides the clutch to go up hill .he clls it clutch control ,i do not care because i make good money from this cantankerous person who knows how to drive with clutch control ,he even holds it on a hill on the clutch instead of putting handbrake on and then gearbox in neutral -I am just fitting him another clutch today ,the last one was easter last year .

The Clutch Pedal Position ( CPP ) Switch is near the brake pedal. It has a 6 pin connector on it ( all 6 pins are in a line ) that has 4 wires from it.
Black w/ white stripe is a ground
Tan w/ light blue stripe is the clutch pedal position sensor top travel
Black w/ white stripe is a ground
White w/ Black stripe is the clutch pedal position sensor bottom travel.
I think this is what you are talking about, if not please let us know

Check the rear brakes are not leaking, or have air in the fluid feed line.
If above OK, it's probably caused by a faulty master cylinder.
(To check :- Slacken off the master cyl feed to the front (then rear) brakes, and observe if any fluid is being delivered - if not it is definitely a master cyl problem).

pump the brakes a few times they should stiffen right up

Sounds like two issue. The ABS unit might need replacement (known issue for ABS lights on) and the brakes need to be quality parts (ATE, Brembo, Girling, etc.) , not discount auto or pep boy type brakes. Those don't stop well. If the pedal travel is excessive, bleed the brake system first. If its still excessive, its most likely the master cylinder, not the booster (booster will make the pedal hard).