Question about 2007 Yamaha Ybr 125

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Hi my YBR is 2006, today the ignition cut out shortly after setting off (just long enough to get the engine up to temperature. battery charge is good, fuse is OK. but the ignition was completely dead. After leaving it for a couple of hours, the ignition came on just fine and bike started as usual, only to do the same thing after ticking over for about 5 mins (up to temperature again. Any ideas? Sue

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  • 3 Answers

Just change the ignation coil thats a common problem on ybr ,it has happen to and that what i did

Posted on Oct 02, 2017

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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polarcycle
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SOURCE: Bike not charging

Sounds like regulator/rectifier, stator, or charging rotor.

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

cape cod bob
  • 292 Answers

SOURCE: Yamaha V-Star 1100 Custom stalls when downshifting

sounds more like a fuel problem to me. is it cold there did you use stabilizer in the gas? try some berrymans B12 in the gas it cleans everything up internally. it worked for me

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: hi my yamaha sw 125 trailway does not start first time

Sounds like a battery that will not hold a charge, not enough left in the morning for a good spark. Once running for a short bit the battery gets recharged so the bike starts all day. Then the battery dissipates the charge overnight. Try a morning jump start from your car battery.

Before you spend $50 or so on a battery, look to see if there is water covering the top of the battery plates. If so then the current battery needs to be replaced. If not, add water to cover the top of the plates and ride it for a day. See if it holds a charge now. Battery may still be bad but it was worth a shot.

Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the
carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the
carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine. This process should get you back on the road.

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Posted on Apr 27, 2009

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: replaced stator and battery, bike still givin trouble

the regulater is located between tha battery and the gas tank .There are (3) white and(2)red wires .See if they are showing signs of damage from heat more than likley they are because when you "boost" or jump these bikes you burn a very weak diode witch regulates the charging time from the stator i would check ebay for the best price on a new regulater rectifier you may need one.I had the same problem with my 2000 model r6.good luck bro!

Posted on Jul 04, 2009

herbmeister
  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: Engine cutting out when open throttle. YAMAHA NEOS 50cc MOPED

i had a simuler problem with my honda cr 250 moto-x bike it would start fine and you could keep it ticking over with the throttle(i have deliberatly unscrewed the tickover in case i come off,it will cut out) when i got on it,it would go for about 400-500 metres then splutter and die and not start again for around 5 mins. i immediatly knew it was a fueling problem. so after stripping the carb and giving it a good clean out i was baffled when i got back on and it still done the same. i then dismantled the fuel tap cleaned it all out and put it back together and tested it,it was very very slow so i unsrewed my fuel cap a little and was greated with the familur gush it should deliver. problem solved! the vent in my fuel cap had crystalised up,so the fuel was coming out but the air was not getting in,causing a vacuum and slowing down the flow and basically emptying the carb quicker than it can fill back up!!! clean your carb,fuel tap and any vents in your cap or tank. if this does not work then your bike must be over fueling or low on compression.

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

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1 Answer

Difficult starting YBR 125


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or have an improper gap or are partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition.
3. Battery damaged or nearly discharged, should have 12.5 volts.
4. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Throttle controls not adjusted correctly.
6. Water or dirt in the fuel system.
7. Water or dirt in the carburetor.
8. Faulty fuel pump.
9. Intake air leak.
10. Fuel tank vent hose and vapor valve plugged, or fuel line closed off, restricting fuel flow.
11. Enricher valve inoperative.
12. Engine lubricant to heavy (winter operation).
13. Ignition is not functioning properly (possible sensor failure).
14. Faulty ignition coil.
15. Valves sticking.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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Jan 02, 2014 | 2006 Yamaha Ybr 125

1 Answer

Ybr125 cuts out at 7000 revs and engine management light flashes


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.
9. Fuel tank empty
10. Water or dirt in the fuel system, or clogged filter.
11. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
12. Failed fuel pump.
13. Failed pressure regulator.
14. Faulty or clogged fuel injectors.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
https://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/23502-ybr-125-queries
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I have a yamaha ybr 125, that is from 2006 and has 14k on the clock. riding in the snow today and engine kept cutting out as if it was not getting enough fuel or oxygen then after a short while - a loud...


Hi, Anonymous sounds like you blew a head gasket and I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
1. Bearings---SCREECH
2. Belts---CHIRP
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Chains---RATTLE
5. Clutches---CHATTER
6. Cylinders---PING
7. Fronk Forks---Plunk
8. Gears---WHINE
9. Head Gasket---HISS
10. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
11. Pistons---SLAP
12. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
13. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
14. Solid Lifters---TICK
15. Starters---CLICK
16. Connecting Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
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Feb 13, 2013 | 2006 Yamaha Ybr 125

1 Answer

Yamaha YBR 125 hard starting


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or have an improper gap or are partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition.
3. Battery damaged or nearly discharged, should have 12.5 volts.
4. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
5. Throttle controls not adjusted correctly.
6. Water or dirt in the fuel system.
7. Water or dirt in the carburetor.
8. Faulty fuel pump.
9. Intake air leak.
10. Fuel tank vent hose and vapor valve plugged, or fuel line closed off, restricting fuel flow.
11. Enricher valve inoperative.
12. Engine lubricant to heavy (winter operation).
13. Ignition is not functioning properly (possible sensor failure).
14. Faulty ignition coil.
15. Valves sticking.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
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https://yamahaclub.com/forums/topic/22523-ybr-125-starting-problems
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1 Answer

Ybr 125 is struggling to start


Hi, Ian before testing any electrical component in the Starter Circuit it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test because your battery may have 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amps causing the battery to be faulty and must be replaced, especially "AGM" batteries.
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or have an improper gap or are partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition.
3. Loose wire/cable connection at one of the battery terminals, especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, check it at both ends, coil, or plug between ECM or ignition module.
4. Throttle controls not adjusted correctly.
5. Water or dirt in the fuel system.
6. Water or dirt in the carburetor.
7. Intake air leak.
8. Fuel tank vent hose and vapor valve plugged, or fuel line closed off, restricting fuel flow.
9. Enrichener valve inoperative.
10. Engine lubricant to heavy (winter operation).
11. Ignition is not functioning properly (possible sensor failure).
12. Faulty ignition coil.
13. Valves sticking.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Apr 23, 2012 | 2007 Yamaha Ybr 125

1 Answer

Ybr125 headlight and high beam dont work


Hi, Anonymous if your headlight is not working, only one beam works, keeps burning out, blinking, or is dim the first thing you need to check is the headlight bulb for damaged filaments then check your light circuit fuse, then check your head light bulb socket ground wire for a clean tight connection, that being said the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty ground or power supply wire to headlight bulb socket.
2. Worn down solder contacts or loose fit of the bulb base in the socket due to vibration.
3. Worn, chaffed, or broken wires in the light circuit.
4. Corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets in wire connectors.
5. Faulty hi/lo beam switch.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Fuse is good but no continuity on both sides.
8. Faulty wiring between battery positive and headlight bulb socket.
9. Weak charging alternator/generator.
10. Faulty voltage regulator/rectifier ground or overcharging.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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1 Answer

Engine crackling but not running


need to check ignition system parts. have an attention especially to your ignition coil. consider also the hi wires, spark plugs, contact point and condenser. and make sure the battery is fully charge. and have enough fuel, and dont have clogged fuel lines and fuel filter.

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1 Answer

2006 Ybr 125: bike isnt running proper just really sluggish and ...


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Dirty air filter.
10. Intake air leak.
11. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system.
12. Carburetor damaged, contaminated, sticky float, plugged jets.
13. Multiple carburetors out of sync.
14. Fuel filter clogged.
15. Old or contaminated fuel.
16. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carb vent line closed off.
17. Gas cap diaphragm valve faulty.
18. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
19. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
20. Incorrect valve timing.
21. Valve springs floating, weak, or broken.
22. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
23. Incompatible performance parts.
24. Control module may be in "LIMP" mode
25. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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May 18, 2010 | 2006 Yamaha Ybr 125

1 Answer

Why does my engine cut off?


Possible reasons are;
  1. Water condensation in the gas tank has partially filled the carb float bowl. Bikes don't run well on water. Remove the drain plug on the float bowl to drain the bowl.
  2. Install a new spark plug to eliminate possible carbon shorting.
  3. Check the side-stand kill switch. Broken or out of adjustment it can intermittently kill the engine.
  4. A loose or dirty plug in connection on the power wire to the coil.
  5. Bad kill switch on the handlebars.
  6. An abraded kill switch wire or power wire.
Start at the top and work your way through the list. If that doesn't work you will need to go to the dealer and have them check the coil, CDI and other ignition components.

Jan 15, 2010 | 2006 Yamaha Ybr 125

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