Question about 2000 Harley Davidson FLHR-FLHRI Road king

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Changed primary oil it sounds like a bearing noise

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Make sure you have put the correct amount (around one quart) - low levels make the clutch chain noisy: check on the dipstick on the right side of the clutch cover for the fill marks. Also you might need a thicker oil: something like

Posted on Apr 02, 2011


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My 2011 heritage softail is leaking oil from back side of primary case, it also has a grinding like sound when's is on neutral idling that goes away when i apply the clutch

Hi, Edgar first thing you need to do is check your primary and transmission oil levels to determine which one is leaking and repair as necessary usually seals or possibly cracked inner primary. The grinding noise could be a loose/tight primary chain, transmission main shaft bearing, primary bearing, or clutch hub bearing, you can remove your primary drain plug and inspect the magnet for metal ants. I am sorry you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Harley Davidson but despair not for a mere $7 you can download another one. For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below, and for specific information or questions, please feel free to contact me at Good luck and have a nice day.
Harley Davidson Manuals Mark Workshop
HD Ultra Classic Primary Removal and Installation

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at

Nov 20, 2015 | Goes Motorcycles

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The first time i heard the noise i was cought in traffic the bike got alittle hoy it sounded like a ball bearing bouncing around when i got back on the road it stoped the bike run fine

Hi Kmercer, could be primary noise. Remove the square inspection cover and check to see if your primary chain adjuster slipped or came loose giving lots of chain slop. Chain should have no more than 1" total up and down play. Next drain the primary oil and check the magnet on the drain plug. Fiber or powder like accumulation is normal but if you find solid metal pieces remove the primary cover and do a through inspection of the chain, sprokets, and adjuster. If everything checks out ok you might want to take it to your local dealer or shop and let them listen to the noise. Good luck

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at

Apr 06, 2015 | 2009 Harley Davidson FLHTC Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Checking connecting rod bearings

Hi there, I would expect to hear con rod bearings rattling when the engine is revved whilst stationary. A starter motor can cause peculier noises when faulty, worth checking. But if the noise is only when moving while still in gear I would suspect an output bearing on the gearbox. First check the drive train tension, if this is too tight this will overload the bearings. It does sound like it could be somewhere between the crankshaft output sprocket and the rear wheel. As with all things best to try the easy bits first before stripping the engine. Good luck ride free!

Feb 26, 2014 | Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage Softail...

1 Answer

Knocking noinse

Sounds like a bad rod bearing. Doing an oil change with halfway decent oil will "disguise" the sound but is still there. Check oil pressure when car is warm, if u are getting a low reading it's definately rod bearing (s). Car must be completely warm. Drive around for ten fifteen minutes, then check.

Jan 22, 2013 | 2006 Kia Rio

1 Answer

Whinning noise in the primary chain case. I alreadt replace the tensioner shoe

With the engine running, put the transmission into gear and sit there with the clutch lever pulled in. Do you still hear the noise. If so, most likely the noise is in the primary itself rather than the transmission. Since you didn't specify whether the bike is a Sportster or a BIg Twin, it's difficult to say what the noise may be. It could be a bearing going bad. The problem with that is that you can disassemble the bike and never find the bearing. It could be the big bearing in the outer clutch shell or it could the mainshaft support bearing in the inner primary if it's a big twin. A Sportster has basically the same bearings but in different areas. If the bike is equipped with one of those automatic primary chain tensioners, I've seen them make a noise as well. Then again, a noise like that is very difficult to find. It seems to travel all through the engine. It could possibly be an inner cam bearing going bad. They sound exactly like the alternator whine on a Chevrolet. If you have one of those mechanic's stethoscopes or long screwdriver, listen to various places on your engine to try to locate the noise more closely.

Good Luck

Apr 03, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXDX Dyna Super Glide...

1 Answer

I have a 2001 trans am WS6 with 25,000 origiinal miles. I have a light whyning noise when car is warm. Changed transmission oil and gear oil. Noise still an issue. Could it be a power steering pump bearing...

If you believe that one of the "tins"(alternator, power steering, water pump etc) is defective use a stethoscope and place it on each item as the vehicle is ideling . The item that produces the noise is the culprit.

The other item that could make this noise is the oil pump inside of the torque converter. To test this place vehicle in all gears including park and neutral . If the noise is present in all gears regardless of speed its the pump.

Apr 17, 2010 | 2001 Pontiac Firebird

2 Answers

When pulling in the clutch there is a loud squalching noise.

Sounds like your clutch throwout bearing is either bad or going bad. This is due to improper clutch cable adjustment. Just like in a straight shift automobile, if you keep your foot on the clutch pedal, the throwout bearing runs continuously shortening the life of the bearing. On a motorcycle, if the clutch cable is not adjusted to have just a bit of freeplay in it, the bearing will run continously as well shortening the life of the bearing. But, then again it could have just been a faulty bearing.

To repair the problem, you must remove the outer primary cover. First, drain the primary/transmission oil. Then you must loosen the primary chain adjuster beneath the primary cover. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster bolt outward to lower the adjuster shoe inside the primary.

Then remove the clutch inspection cover, the small spring, and the locknut on the clutch release mechansim. Remove the left hand foot peg. Remove all the bolts holding the outer primary cover on. As you remove the primary cover, you will have to turn the screw inside the release mechanism inwards to get it out of the release mechanism.

Once you get the primary cover off, you can see the clutch throwout or release bearing in the center of the clutch assembly. Remove the snap ring and pull the bearing out. Inspect and replace the bearing if found to be defective. Carefully drive the center bolt out and the bearing out of it's holder. Install in the reverse manner.

Reassembly is reverse of disassembly. Install a new gasket on the primary and slide the primary cover in place while turning the clutch release screw into the the release mechanism. Install the bolts that hold the primary cover on and tighten. Tighten small primary cover bolts to 80-110 Inch pounds and the left foot peg bolts to 16-28 Foot pounds.

Adjust the primary chain tensioner to obtain 3/8' to 1/2" up and down slack when checked through upper inspection cover on outer primary. To adjust the clutch cable, find the bellows looking cover over the cable adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and adjust the cable as short as possible. Back at that the adjuster on the primary cover, slowly turn the adjuster screw clockwise until it bottoms out and quits turning. Do not force the screw to turn, just until it bottoms out. Now, back it up 1/4 turn and install the locknut. You may have to turn it just a bit one way or the other to get the locknut in. Install the spring and the cover with the quad ring in place. ADD OIL TO THE PRIMARY, 32 OUNCES of H-D Sport Trans or equilivent. To adjust the cable, adjust cable adjuster in the middle of the cable out as far as it will go without forcing anything. Squeeze the clutch lever a few times and adjust the adjuster so that you have 1/16" to 1/8" freeplay at the lever, about the thickness of a nickle between the lever and lever stancion. Lock the locknut on the cable adjuster and reposition the bellows cover.

As you can see, this is not a very difficult job but it is not for the "faint of heart" since it involves removing the primary cover. I would rate the job difficulty as "moderate" due to this necessity. The only special tool required would be a set of snap ring pliers. Good Luck!

Feb 14, 2010 | 2003 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883...

4 Answers

1997 Ford Taurus oil pressure light comes on only when rpm's drop below 700. Have change the oil pressure switch but still happens.

Worn oil pump or cam brgs. Noticed the oil change, what about the oil filter?The oil filter has a bypass in it that will allow unfiltered oil to get past the oil filter if it plugs up. What is your mileage now and how was your maintenance habits? Good Luck. Remember, your cam brgs are the first point of resistance that control your oil pressure, not your rods or mains

Jun 29, 2009 | 1996 Ford Contour

1 Answer

Noise engine

This sounds like bad main and connecting rod bearing they are worn and when they become worn they make noise. Because of excessive clearance between bearing oil pressure drops therefore starving the essential parts of the engine of oil. Engine needs to be rebuilt or replaced. God Luck

Dec 12, 2008 | 1998 Chevrolet K1500

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