Question about kawasaki Mach III H 1B Motorcycles

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I have a kx 100 has spark but wont start and stay running when it does run has no power i have cleaned carb set timing tried different plugs any ideas how to fix

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 3567 Answers

SOURCE: bike wont start

Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two screws down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each screw one and one half turns outward. Clean the air filter. Install a new stock NGK spark plug.

Please rate this solution. Thanks!

Posted on Apr 19, 2009

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  • 28 Answers

SOURCE: Not starting or idling.

have you tried setting the idle scerw on carb? if not that try the oil/air mixture screw on carb, i had a tzr that had same prob and it was down to setting up them 23 little screws

Posted on May 04, 2009

  • 246 Answers

SOURCE: yard man gas push mower starts but wont stay running

Hello jusapup68:

>>Did you Soak the Carburetor when you Cleaned it?
>>If No, then the Carburetor can Still be the Problem.
>>Does the Engine Start and Quit if you Pour a Small Amount (1/4 oz of Gas into the Carburetor and Try to Start the Engine?
>>If Yes, then Soak the Carburetor Overnight.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve.
Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Needle Valve.
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Mower at this Site Addy, http://www.smallenginepartswarehouse.com/parts.asp and Select Shop Online Parts and Accessories. Now Select the Model Tab. Select the OEM (MTD) and Enter the Model Numbers. Now Double Click on the Model in the Results Area.
>>Have you Checked the Spark at the Plug?
>>Here is a Basic Instruction File I am in the Process of Making. It will Might Say Mower, but a Snow Thrower/Blower is Powered by the Same Type of Engine, so the Diagnostics are Basically the Same. >>***Here are some Diagnostic Instructions to Do on the Engine to Locate the Cause/Cure for a Hard/Not Starting Engine. This Does Not Include a Problem with the Valves. If I Suspected the Valves are Involved, then a Separate File for the Valves will be in this E-mail. This is a File in the Making, so Any Input is Appreciated.
>>1- Check the Spark. If Not Firing, then Replace the Plug.
>>2- If the Plug is Firing, then First, Pour a Small Amount of Gas (1oz) Into the Carburetor Throat with the Throttle at Full. With the Throttle Still at Full, Try to Start the Engine. If the Engine Starts and Quits, then Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor. If the Gas is Free Flowing, then Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl, Float Pin, Float and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required.
>>3- If No Fire at the Plug, then Remove the Coil Shut Off Wire from the Kill Switch at the Engine Stop/Brake Bracket (where the End of the Stop/Brake Cable Attaches at the Engine). Check for Fire. If No Fire, then Remove the Blower Housing and Remove the Ground Wire from the Coil. Check for Fire. If Still No Fire, then the Coil is Bad. *On Some JD Model Mower the Engines Use an Igniter. Remove the Igniter and Coil and have your Local JD Dealer Test them for you.
>>* **On Models with Point Set, the Condenser is Bad and the Point Set and Condenser should be Replaced as a Unit. Make Sure the Point Set Plunger is Fully Extended when Setting the Point Set Gap to .020in.
>>** If there was No Response from the Engine When the Gas was Poured Into the Carburetor Throat and the Plug was Firing, then Check the Compression. If the Compression is Good, the Carburetor has Been Soaked and Cleaned and the Plug is Firing, then Check the Flywheel Key. If the Key is Damaged, then the Plug Firing is Incorrect to the Position of the Piston During the Compression (Power Stroke).
>>*** On the OHV and Some L-Head (Flat Head) Engines there is a Compression Release. The Exhaust Valve Clearance has to be Opened to .020in for the Compression Release Not to Operate; in Order to get a Correct Compression Reading.***
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Posted on May 14, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 Yamaha Banshee that won't stay running

If your jetting is too rich it will be extremely hard to kick start it and will most likely flood it from kicking.First thing i would do is pull the top of the carbs off (cable,slides and needles) and see which clip they're set at. If they are set stock which would be middle clip then lower the needle one clip. This will lean the mix out and should start up easier with no problems,The idle issue is most likely just off.If your fiance still has the TORS on it then on top of the carbs he will see 2 dime size and screws and wires as soon as he takes his seat off.While running he can turn each dime size screw in or out to adjust the idle. If it has a TORS elimator kit on it then he won't have all the junk on top of the carbs and it will be just a cable and round cap screwed directly on top of the carbs and the idle screws will be on the side of each carb (brass color screws with nuts to tighten) same thing...in or out to adjust the idle where needed.Hope this helps.

-Steve

Posted on Jun 08, 2009

ollie reece
  • 1167 Answers

SOURCE: Honda CRF 100F has spark, I changed the tank fuel

hi mate you will see a screw pocking out the carb screw it in 1/4 of a turn and start it this is the idle screw which should bring the revs up a little good luck

Posted on Jul 07, 2009

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It wontt start it has spark


There are only three things that your bike needs to start, Spark, Compression and Fuel, if you say that it has spark and compression then the problem has to be fuel, Make sure that there are no blockages in the line from the tank to the carb, if that is not the problem then you will have to pull the carb and clean out all the ports. I disassemble them as much as possible and empty a can of carb cleaner into a clean coffee can let it soak overnight and then blow out all passages with compressed air and reassemble. You should also pull off your reed cage and check to make sure that your reeds aren't cracked or broke. If your bike was runninng before and you give your carb a good cleaning and the reeds look good and it still doesn't work then you are going to have to look at the other two requirements, your spark should be a bright blue, if not try a spark plug first (you may want to try that before the carb cleaning) next you should get a compression tester and check the compression to make sure it is high enough. Your bike might feel like it has lots of compression but it might be low enough to make it hard to start.

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1 Answer

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Is the spark plug black?
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Is the main jet in the carb plugged?
If the plug is dry after trying to start it.....your fuel is not getting into the engine and most likely a plugged carb jet..
Also.....Is the fuel switch working...is it in run position?

If the generator has sat for a while with fuel left in the carb/fuel tank.......the most common problem is a plugged varnished dirty carburetor in need of a good cleaning.
Always shut the fuel off and let the carb run dry (run until the engine stops)before storing.
Add fuel stabilizer to any remaining fuel or drain the tank before storing.

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Do it, then rate this answer as "Very Helpful". Thanks.

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have you checked on the carb ans see if the jet is right and the mixture is normal, this is usually the case if the carb is not tuned right.

better of reset the card, open it clean it, then set to default even if you are using your mixture of gas and 2t. just set to factory default. once it starts give it a few run, 1-2 hours, then set it to how you want your mixture to be.

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Please rate this solution as "FixYa" if able. Thanks!

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