Question about 2005 Suzuki DR-Z 125 L

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The carberatur is not getting fuel. can I adjust the floats? I already took it apart and cleaned it then sprayed it out with a air hose and compressor.

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What do you mean not getting fuel? do you mean not going through the carb of not getting to it?

Sometimes cleaning and blowing air isn't enough, I always poke a smooth end wire through all the holes and passages being careful not to scratch anything. Sometimes you will find dirt logged

or if the carb isnt getting fuel it could be down to this

the carberatur is not getting fuel. can I adjust - a20791b12acb5d0af7c07b_m.jpg the fuel diaphragm

you can remove this and blow it out

the chances of the floats being out of place to restict the fuel completly are very very rare i would say it was either of these things

hope this helps


John

Posted on Mar 31, 2011

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I have a Devilbiss GB500 Generator with a Brigg engine model number 19E412 Type 1131 E1 . I choke to strart but only runs for a couple of secs and then stops. If I try right away to start, it won't but...


Hi I am Kelly,
I read that you did a carb cleaning. Remove the fuel float bowl again. In the area of the float bowl nut threads is the main fuel jet orifice and fuel tube. Break off a toothpick and use the BLUNT end up inside the threaded area in a twisting manner to wipe any debis from the main fuel orifice. Also if you remove the air filter and look in the throat of the carb. There is a brass tube at the 6 o'clock position. Spray that with carb cleaner and watch for carb cleaner to come out of the main fuel orifice in the threaded area. Once you have done this youshould check fuel flow. Get a spary paint can lid and place it under the carb / float. Turn on the fuel and watch fuel flow. It should fill the spray paint can lid in about 10 seconds. If you do not have good fuel flow then you will need to inspect the main fuel supply at the carb connection. It should really be a rapid rate from the fuel hose coming form the tank. Low flow here you must inspect the tank exit port, fuel shut off and any in line filters. Good flow here but low flow under the float... you need to spray carb cleaner UP beside the float needle with the mainfuel hose removed to get any debris out of the needle and seat area. Then spray from the main fuel line connection DOWN through the float needle and seat. Reconnect the main fuel ine and test flow. Once you have good fuel flow re-install the float bowl and attempt a start.

If you have the same result... read this:
IMPORTANT: The engine is equipped with a low oil level sensor. Make sure the oil level is serviced fully. If there is a low oil level condition (or bad sensor) it will shut off the ignition.
It is quite possible that your oil level is high enough to get an engine start but as soon as oil is circulated in the engine the sensor is activated. If you suspect a low oil level sensor problem disconnect ONE wire from the sensor and test unit again.

After doing ALL of the above you still have the problem just respond here and I will continue to help you.

Kelly

Sep 04, 2011 | Briggs Stratton Portable Generator 305cc...

1 Answer

Hi, I have a 2003 DRZ 125L (I'm a girl) that I put some gas in last night. The gas was turned off but the gas poured out of the bottom or my carborated skinny hose. So after I cleaned up a mess of gas on...


Jenny, I admire a girl willing to tackle a motorcycle. The problem is the float not fully closing or not closing at all. Remove the carb then remove the float bowl. this will expose the float chamber. Remove the 1" long pin that the float is hinged on then check the float by shaking it. It should be light as a feather and have only air inside it. If anything but air is inside it you need to replace it. More likely is a bit of lint or rust from the gas tank is preventing the float needle from closing. Clean the carb with spray carb cleaner. Don't mess with throttle or air screw settings. clean the float pin then re-install it. It would be a good idea to install an in-line fuel filter when you get a chance. If you want to see an exploded view of the carb ( and the rest of the bike ) go to the website below. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx

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Sep 03, 2010 | 2003 Suzuki DR-Z 125

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Mower starts fine but conks out in about a minute or two.I changed the air filter but it still stalls a minute after starting. toro mower is about 2 years old


Recheck your fuel selector to make sure it is ON. Also if this is the first start of the season there may be old gas / debris in the bottom of the float bowl. One other area to check is the bottom of the gas tank / fuel outlet port of the tank. I don't remember if this model had an in-line fuel filter but also something to check if installed.

This is listed under Toro Mower with power tools that has a 6.5 Briggs and Stratton engine.



To clean the carb passages you will need to do the following.

(FUEL SELECTOR OFF)

1. The adjustment screw on the side of the carb that has a spring on it. You need to count the number of turns it takes turning it clockwise until it just comes up snug NOT TIGHT. Then remove it.

2, Remove the float bowl and dump the contents.

3. Spray carb cleaner in the adjustment screw hole.

4. Disconnect the fuel hose to the carb and spray carb cleaner in the brass tubing hole. The cleaner should be exiting via the float needle. Make sure float assy is down....

5. Connect the fuel line. (use a spray paint can lid and catch the fuel in this step. FUEL SELECTOR on. Catch fuel exiting carb. Lift the float to a LEVEL position and feul flow should stop. DO NOT FORCE IT! Gentle lift only.

FUEL Selector off.

6. Install float bowl

7. Re-install adjustment screw/needle/spring in the side of the carb. Turn it until it just snugs up.. then back it off the number of turns it took to initially close it before removal.

FUEL Selector on... wait 30 seconds..

7. Start mower.

That should do it.

Kelly

May 03, 2010 | Toro Lawn Mower With Toro Power Tools

1 Answer

I have a '94 Shadow 600. Engine starts fine. But even after it's warmed up it begins to backfire at idle and dies when I throttle it. Tank is full of gas.I'm certain both cylinders are firing, but no...


BEFORE YOU START
You are haveing carb problems.
Make sure that dirty carbs are actually your problem. Lots of things can make a bike run poorly or not start. Weak battery, corroded electrics, old spark plugs, bad timing, low compression, mis-adjusted valves, dirty air filter, and plugged exhausts can all cause poor running. I'll write an article eventually on how to diagnose poor running conditions shortly, but for now - lets just deal with the carbs.

There are many passageways and openings to check and clean. All are important in function and when obstructed or not working properly, have subtle to radical effects on engine performance. Vacuum leaks and carburetor synchronization also have effects on performance and should be inspected and adjusted following the below procedures.

Carb Cleaning 101
Warning: Remove all rubber parts before you begin. These parts usually include vacuum diaphragms, needle valves, o’rings, hoses, and other parts. Spray cleaners will damage these parts. Do not disassemble individual carbs from the carb bracket.

Air & Fuel Passageways: Trace and learn individual fuel and air circuits from beginning to end. Machines can only drill straight through the cast passageways. To change direction, another angled passageway must be drilled. The union is plugged with a brass or bronze bead. Inspect and clean each passageway with spray cleaner, brushes/pipe cleaners/etc, and compressed air. Remove any discoloration and debris. Look for spray cleaner to exit from one or more passageways.

Jet Cleaning: Inspect jets by holding to light and look through them. You should see an unobstructed round hole. Clean the jets with one or more of the following: jet cleaning wires, soak solutions, carb spray cleaners and compressed air. Re-inspect jets after cleaning and install when clear of obstructions. Some main jets have paper-like gaskets. Most have metal spacers between the jet and the emulsion tube. Some screw directly into a brass emulsion tube which is machined for a 7mm wrench at its float chamber exposed base.

Inlet Fuel Valve: Inspect the needle valve & spring. Press down the tiny metal rod that protrudes from the **** or float end of the needle valve. The spring should move freely and return the rod to its location. Check the needle valve’s seat area for a groove or other wear. It should appear highly polished. Some needle valve seats are rubber and wear may not be visible. Inspect the needle valve jet seat. You can clean the jet seat with Q-tips and semi-chrome polish if necessary.

Carb Body Castings: Blow air through the atmospheric vent holes located on the dome of each float bowl chamber. Air should exit via hoses or brass nipples. Inspect the emulsion tubes and passageways (cast towers that jets thread into) for discoloration and debris. Clean interior emulsion towers with a soft bristle gun cleaning brush. Clean each Venturi (main carb bore).

Needle Jets & Jet Needles: Clean the needle jets, jet needles, and passageway or tower that needle jet screws into. Clean the emulsion tube (pipe between needle jet and main jet) (Main Jet may screw into emulsion tube). Jet needles are part of the throttle slides. See below…

Throttle Slides: There are several types of throttle slides: Mechanical linkage, vacuum, diaphragm, and cable. Disassembling the jet needle from the slide is not always required for cleaning. If you have vacuum piston type throttle slides (large diameter solid metal slide), avoid cleaning the lubrication from sides and caps. If piston type check cap vents and passageways with air. Clean if necessary and re-lube. If you have rubber vacuum throttle diaphragms, inspect for dry-rot, defects, and tears by gently stretching rubber away from center. Do this until all areas around diaphragm have been inspected. Replace any defective part as described above. Clean carb body areas around diaphragm including air passageways and air jets. Diaphragms have a locator loop or tab fabricated into their sealing edge. Observe this locator upon reassembly. Avoid pinching the diaphragm when reinstalling caps.

Fuel Screws: Fuel screws have sharp tapered ends. Carefully turn one fuel screw in while counting the turns until it seats lightly. Warning: These screws are very easily damaged if over tightened into their seats. Record amount of "turns-in" and remove the fuel screw, spring, washer, and o'ring. The fuel screw is part of the enrichment (choke) circuit...clean passageways as described above. When carbs are assembled, spray low PSI compressed air into diaphragm air vents located at intake side of carbs. Throttle slides should rise, then fall when air is removed. Lightly lube external moving linkages. Reinstall carbs and follow through with carburetor synchronization.

Throttle Cables: Lubricate cables periodically. If cables are disconnected from carbs or removed for replacement, etc . . . remember cable routing and ensure proper reinstallation routing. Avoid bread-tying, sharp bends, and pinching cables. Adjust cables so throttle grip has about 5mm of play or throttle slides or butterfly valves may not open completely (full throttle)(wide full open).

Float Bowls: Inspect float bowls for sediment, gum or varnish, crystallization, and defects. Clean all pipes, tubes, passageways, and embedded jets with cleaners and compressed air. Remove and clean the drain screw and area. Inspect bowl gasket and replace if necessary. Clean and inspect overflow pipes and tubes, look for vertical cracks.

Floats: There are several types of float materials: plastic, brass, black composite, tin, and others. Handle floats carefully. Avoid bending, twisting, denting, or other means of mishandling. Most floats are adjustable by bending a small metal tab near the float axle end. Do not change the float adjuster tab unless tuning fuel service levels. Clean metal floats by soaking or by spraying cleaner and wiping clean. Other material type floats may require replacement if cleaning is necessary. Inspect the needle valve (float valve) and seat. Check needle valve’s spring loaded pin. It should depress and return smoothly and without resistance. Check the needle valve’s tip for a worn groove. Replace needle valve and seat if either symptom exists. These parts wear together and must be replaced as a set.

Choke Plungers: It is common for Mikuni slide carburetors to have indented or hardened choke plunger pads. If the pads are worn, indented or hardened with age, then the idle of your bike will vary wildly as the pads no longer seal well.

Synchronization: This is a fine adjustment performed usually and preferably with the carbs installed and the engine running. The unusual part is performed with gauged wire with the carbs on the work bench. Carburetor synchronizing balances Venturi vacuum at the exhaust side of each carburetor, resulting with smooth idling and optimized performance at all throttle openings. Synchronization is checked using a set of gauges which are either air vacuum type or liquid mercury type. The gauges are connected to vacuum ports on the intake manifolds via nipple tubes or if sealed with screws, sync gauge adapters will be needed. With the engine running at temperature, and with a fan or means of forced convection aimed onto the engine, the carbs fuel screws and idle are adjusted, then the synchronization is adjusted via adjustment screws on the carbs. A reserve fuel tank is recommended for convenience of accessing carbs during this procedure. See gauge instructions and repair manuals for detailed use of synchronization gauges.

Notes: While carbs are apart, record the jet sizes. Look for a very small number imprinted on the body of the jets. Verify that numbers are the same for all jets on models with in-line cylinders. A few transverse-4 models and V-engines, the inner and outer carbs use some different size jets and it's important to not mix them up. If you have dial or verneer calipers, measure and record float heights. Perform measurements with floats just touching needle valves, though not depressing the needle valve rods. Replace fuel and vacuum hoses. Be sure to use fuel rated hose for fuel. Install or replace in-line fuel filters. It’s a good time to remove and clean interior petcock fuel filters. Inspect carb manifolds for dry-rotting, inspect all clamps and air ducts. Inspect, clean, lube, and/or replace air filter(s).

Nov 25, 2009 | 1994 Honda VT 600 C Shadow

1 Answer

Clogged carburator, how do I get it out to clean?


BEFORE YOU START
Make sure that dirty carbs are actually your problem. Lots of things can make a bike run poorly or not start. Weak battery, corroded electrics, old spark plugs, bad timing, low compression, mis-adjusted valves, dirty air filter, and plugged exhausts can all cause poor running. I'll write an article eventually on how to diagnose poor running conditions shortly, but for now - lets just deal with the carbs.
There are many passageways and openings to check and clean. All are important in function and when obstructed or not working properly, have subtle to radical effects on engine performance. Vacuum leaks and carburetor synchronization also effect performance and should be inspected and adjusted following the below procedures.

Carb Cleaning 101
Warning: Remove all rubber parts before you begin. These parts usually include vacuum diaphragms, needle valves, o'rings, hoses, and other parts. Spray cleaners will damage these parts. Do not disassemble individual carbs from the carb bracket.

Air & Fuel Passageways: Trace and learn individual fuel and air circuits from beginning to end. Machines can only drill straight through the cast passageways. To change direction, another angled passageway must be drilled. The union is plugged with a brass or bronze bead. Inspect and clean each passageway with spray cleaner, brushes/pipe cleaners/etc, and compressed air. Remove any discoloration and debris. Look for spray cleaner to exit from one or more passageways.

Jet Cleaning: Inspect jets by holding to light and look through them. You should see an unobstructed round hole. Clean the jets with one or more of the following: jet cleaning wires, soak solutions, carb spray cleaners and compressed air. Re-inspect jets after cleaning and install when clear of obstructions. Some main jets have paper-like gaskets. Most have metal spacers between the jet and the emulsion tube. Some screw directly into a brass emulsion tube which is machined for a 7mm wrench at its float chamber exposed base.

Inlet Fuel Valve: Inspect the needle valve & spring. Press down the tiny metal rod that protrudes from the **** or float end of the needle valve. The spring should move freely and return the rod to its location. Check the needle valve's seat area for a groove or other wear. It should appear highly polished. Some needle valve seats are rubber and wear may not be visible. Inspect the needle valve jet seat. You can clean the jet seat with Q-tips and semi-chrome polish if necessary.

Carb Body Castings: Blow air through the atmospheric vent holes located on the dome of each float bowl chamber. Air should exit via hoses or brass nipples. Inspect the emulsion tubes and passageways (cast towers that jets thread into) for discoloration and debris. Clean interior emulsion towers with a soft bristle gun cleaning brush. Clean each Venturi (main carb bore).

Needle Jets & Jet Needles: Clean the needle jets, jet needles, and passageway or tower that needle jet screws into. Clean the emulsion tube (pipe between needle jet and main jet) (Main Jet may screw into emulsion tube). Jet needles are part of the throttle slides. See below…

Throttle Slides: There are several types of throttle slides: Mechanical linkage, vacuum, diaphragm, and cable. Disassembling the jet needle from the slide is not always required for cleaning. If you have vacuum piston type throttle slides (large diameter solid metal slide), avoid cleaning the lubrication from sides and caps. If piston type check cap vents and passageways with air. Clean if necessary and re-lube. If you have rubber vacuum throttle diaphragms, inspect for dry-rot, defects, and tears by gently stretching rubber away from center. Do this until all areas around diaphragm have been inspected. Replace any defective part as described above. Clean carb body areas around diaphragm including air passageways and air jets. Diaphragms have a locator loop or tab fabricated into their sealing edge. Observe this locator upon reassembly. Avoid pinching the diaphragm when reinstalling caps.

Fuel Screws: Fuel screws have sharp tapered ends. Carefully turn one fuel screw in while counting the turns until it seats lightly. Warning: These screws are very easily damaged if over tightened into their seats. Record amount of "turns-in" and remove the fuel screw, spring, washer, and o'ring. The fuel screw is part of the enrichment (choke) circuit...clean passageways as described above. When carbs are assembled, spray low PSI compressed air into diaphragm air vents located at intake side of carbs. Throttle slides should rise, then fall when air is removed. Lightly lube external moving linkages. Reinstall carbs and follow through with carburetor synchronization.

Throttle Cables: Lubricate cables periodically. If cables are disconnected from carbs or removed for replacement, etc . . . remember cable routing and ensure proper reinstallation routing. Avoid bread-tying, sharp bends, and pinching cables. Adjust cables so throttle grip has about 5mm of play or throttle slides or butterfly valves may not open completely (full throttle)(wide full open).

Float Bowls: Inspect float bowls for sediment, gum or varnish, crystallization, and defects. Clean all pipes, tubes, passageways, and embedded jets with cleaners and compressed air. Remove and clean the drain screw and area. Inspect bowl gasket and replace if necessary. Clean and inspect overflow pipes and tubes, look for vertical cracks.

Floats: There are several types of float materials: plastic, brass, black composite, tin, and others. Handle floats carefully. Avoid bending, twisting, denting, or other means of mishandling. Most floats are adjustable by bending a small metal tab near the float axle end. Do not change the float adjuster tab unless tuning fuel service levels. Clean metal floats by soaking or by spraying cleaner and wiping clean. Other material type floats may require replacement if cleaning is necessary. Inspect the needle valve (float valve) and seat. Check needle valve's spring loaded pin. It should depress and return smoothly and without resistance. Check the needle valve's tip for a worn groove. Replace needle valve and seat if either symptom exists. These parts wear together and must be replaced as a set.

Synchronization: This is a fine adjustment performed usually and preferably with the carbs installed and the engine running. The unusual part is performed with gauged wire with the carbs on the work bench. Carburetor synchronizing balances Venturi vacuum at the exhaust side of each carburetor, resulting with smooth idling and optimized performance at all throttle openings. Synchronization is checked using a set of gauges which are either air vacuum type or liquid mercury type. The gauges are connected to vacuum ports on the intake manifolds via nipple tubes or if sealed with screws, sync gauge adapters will be needed. With the engine running at temperature, and with a fan or means of forced convection aimed onto the engine, the carbs fuel screws and idle are adjusted, then the synchronization is adjusted via adjustment screws on the carbs. A reserve fuel tank is recommended for convenience of accessing carbs during this procedure. See gauge instructions and repair manuals for detailed use of synchronization gauges.

Notes: While carbs are apart, record the jet sizes. Look for a very small number imprinted on the body of the jets. Verify that numbers are the same for all jets on models with in-line cylinders. A few transverse-4 models and V-engines, the inner and outer carbs use some different size jets and it's important to not mix them up. If you have dial or veneer calipers, measure and record float heights. Perform measurements with floats just touching needle valves, though not depressing the needle valve rods. Replace fuel and vacuum hoses. Be sure to use fuel rated hose for fuel. Install or replace in-line fuel filters. It's a good time to remove and clean interior petcock fuel filters. Inspect carb manifolds for dry-rotting, inspect all clamps and air ducts. Inspect, clean, lube, and/or replace air filter(s).

Nov 24, 2009 | 2007 Yamaha V Star Classic

2 Answers

My 2001 yamaha 125l ttr having a fuel issue.fuel sqirted in through air intake,bike runs,throtle respondsive,couple seconds only.maybe dismantle carb and blow out.appreciate any insight.thank you.


ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors. Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains then remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and soak the entire carb in denatured alcohol for 30 minutes. Now clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the "blue" items on the
carb and spray into the screw holes as well. Don't mess with #16 but if you must, be sure to count the number of turns and replace the same number of turns.

< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put all screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten #8 and #12 adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the
carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.
Please rate this answer. Thanks!

68dd110.gif

Nov 21, 2009 | 2002 Yamaha TT-R 125 L

1 Answer

Sticky fuel pin


By pin I am guessing you are describing the needle? Some carbs have a small tang on the float that connects the needle to the float with a small wire spring while others just push against each other. I would take the carb off the engine and hook up a fuel hose with a small bottle that is higher than the carb and with the bowl off manipulate the float up and down and be sure the fuel flows freely when the float drops and frees the needle. If this does not happen-try more cleaning but a new carb may be necessary.

Dec 19, 2008 | Electrical Supplies

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