Question about 2008 Suzuki GSX 1300 R Hayabusa

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2008 Suzuki GSX 1300 R Hayabusa engine knock under load

I have a 08 busa that I drag race with about 3500 miles that just got rebuilt about 1000 mile ago (due to a bad oil pump ) I hear a knock in the motor under a load that sounds like a spun bearing (rod knock ) but I have no bearing material in the oil. The noise is around 4 to 6 thousand rpm it sounds almost like it coming from the top half and I have put a new timing chain tensioner in it. Any ideas what it might be

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  • Suzuki Master
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Hi, Keenan_proct I would love to help you with your engine or chassis noise but I just loaned my brand new pair of listening ears to your local dealer's chief technician so he could take your bike for a test ride and give you his professional opinion and estimate about your noise and repair cost. If you are a little short on "DRACHMA" and a Dealership is not on your list of fun places to visit then perhaps the list below will help soothe your worried mind so you can make an informed decision.
1. Bearings---SCREECH
2. Belts---CHIRP
3. Brake Rotors---BUZZ
4. Rear Chains---RATTLE
5. Cam Chains---CLICKIT
6. Clutches---CHATTER
7. Cylinders---PING
8. Fairing Panels---WHISTLE
9. Fronk Forks---Plunk
10. Gears---WHINE
11. Head Gasket---HISS
12. Hydraulic Lifters---TAP
13. Pistons---SLAP
14. Radiators---GURGLE
15. Rear Chains---RATTLE
16. Rear Shocks---SQUEAK
17. Relays---CLICK&BUZZ
18. Shaft Drives---WHIRR
19. Shifting Trans---CLUNK
20. Solid Lifters---TICK
21. Starters---CLICK
22. Connecting Rods Go---KNOCK-KNOCK---who's there, it's me "*****"
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Engine Knocking sounds Diagnosis Suzuki GSX Motorcycle Forums Gixxer com
How to diagnose problem by the noises your bike makes
2008 2012 Suzuki Hayabusa GSX R1300 Service Manual Moto Data Project
OEM parts for Suzuki
Suzuki GSX1300R Owner Manual

Posted on Jul 19, 2017

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SOURCE: First oil change 

3.5 LITERS WITH THE FILTER OR 3.2 WITHOUT IT.

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If you have installed the Dynojet kit's carburetor needles take them off and use the stock ones.
Dynojet's needles are for track use only and the don't work properly under 4000rpm.

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I had the same problem and i cleaned out the P.A.I.R valve and now the problen is solved. Also tighten up the reeds in it

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SOURCE: my suzuki dl 1000 k5 hiccups at 2200--4300 rpm

have seen this many times on different bikes. the manufacturers have to get their bikes to pass emission (pollution) tests, and noise tests. these tests are usually done at the same rpm, therefore the manufacturers program the ecu to make the bike run weak on fuel at that rpm. causes what we call a 'flat spot'

can think of no other reason or it would do it throughout the rev range. don't forget that after a distance on neutral throttle, the fuelling will be very weak as the bike doesn't need much then anyway. usual answer is to get ecu re programmed, or fit dynojet power commander, a plug in electrical box, will sort out all the rubbish and make it run properly. do a google search for dynojet and read their stuff.

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Testimonial: "after lot of searching i put on the ecu 1 electric box called nikko racing over 3 an remove the seconteries butterflys .now i have more power!"

joecoolvette
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SOURCE: Engine Knock/Rod Bearing

1.No, the connecting rod is not bent from the factory.

2.Bearing is shot for that rod? No matter, as you will be replacing that rod, and the rod bearings for both rods. Doesn't make sense to replace one while you're deep in there, and it's probably in a worn out shape anyway. Besides, if that rod bearing even STARTED to spin, you'd have to have the lower end of the rod bore resized, anyway.

Observe the wear pattern of the rod bearings. Are they worn off to one side somewhat. The wear pattern should be even down the middle of the bearing. If it's off to one side somewhat, you have a twisted crank.
Sounds like somebody hit high RPM's and missed a shift! (Or wound it so tight they went way above the red zone in the tach)

3.Machine the crank? Why? Crank pin surface is damaged? You can only turn it down so much. Probably .020, (20 thousandths), to clean it up, or the crank is shot. (.030 is about a 32nd of an inch. Actually it's .0325)
If the crank pin, (Rod pin) surface is damaged, have a skilled machinist take a look, and see if it will clean up at the minimum required diameter. It's in the book.

4.Search the bike junkyards, (EXCUSE ME! Salvage yards!), for parts, and check Ebay.

5.I know you know this, but everything must be PERFECT when you reassemble the lower end. Not close -> PERFECT!! Otherwise this puppy will scatter across the road, when you hit 65 miles an hour, and 5000 grand on the tach! (When you're on the on ramp approaching the highway)

Posted on Jul 13, 2009

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