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not the water pump as the noise will remain constant hot or cold
you leave very important details like make . model , year and engine type petrol or diesel so answering becomes a hit and miss affair
if the engine has a timing chain it indicates that the hydraulic adjuster is loose until oil pressure is built up which equates to a badly worn chain
next if an incorrect oil filter was used , the oil will drain back over night and , chains, rockers, hydraulic lifters will all rattle until pressure is built up
incorrect oil viscosity will drain down quickly and will take time to build up pressure as well
you may have to find an accredited service shop and leave it there over night so that the diagnosis can be made in the same conditions for them as for you and then get a quote
When is the last time you checked the tension on your primary drive chain? Remove the round plug at the top of the primary cover. You can reach the primary chain through this hole. Use your finger to gauge the up and down movement of the chain. If you need to adjust the chain, on the bottom of the primary is an adjusting bolt with a lock nut. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster upwards to tighten the chain, lower it to loosen the chain. The chain should have 3/8" to 1/2" of movement with the engine cold. Usually the final drive belt won't make a rattling noise since it's a rubber-like compound. It should have a tension of about 1/2" up and down movement with a force of ten pounds applied to it from the underside of the lower run.
STOP the engine immediately !!! There is an oil pump failure of 2.0 TDI engines ! Remove the oil pan and the oil pump & balancer shafts assembly.
Either the shaft driving the pump from the balance shaft rounds off or the balance shaft drive gears eat themselves. The same issue ... low oil pressure warning light, noisy rattling engine, and the turbo has gone. Diagnosis: oil pump balancer shaft assembly ...
Many 2.0 TDI engines show excess chain noise and wear anywhere from 50,000-100,000+ miles. Cars have broken the chains/tensioner as low as 65,000 miles. This is just a range of cars that have been reported, diagnosed, and repaired. The actual statistics on dealer repairs or failures is unknown and I've heard cars over 100,000 miles that, in my opinion as a non mechanic (most mechanics wouldn't recognize this sound and problem either), aren't noisy. From what has been reported, noticeable noise/chain-tensioner wear/greater risk of breaking is around 60,000-150,000 miles. Your case may vary. The most obvious symptom is a rattling loose noise from the oil pan. Unless you listen to a Passat TDI with a tight chain and one with a loose chain, it's hard to describe the difference other than rattling chain noise. The reason the gear drive oil pump modification was started is because a few mechanics who specialize in TDI have seen many worn oil pump chains/sprockets/tensioners. There will always be a few defective parts that come off the assembly line and all mechanical components like chains wear out sooner or later, but in my opinion, the failure rate is abnormal considering the number of Passat TDI sold versus the number of reported oil pump failures. This does not necessarily mean that every or even most Passat TDI will have this problem, just that the reported failure rate is high enough to consider this part a design failure. Nobody, not even VW-Audi knows the average time between failure for these parts and the percentage of cars that will have this problem, but they changed this design and if you want to not have this specific failure, the only sure way is to swap to the geared module.
THE RATTLING YOU HEAR AT LOW R'S IS MORE THAN LIKELY THE CAM CHAIN RATTLING. THE CHAIN TENSIONER IS ADJUSTABLE TO A DEGREE BUT A BIKE OF THIS AGE(IF OVER SAY 10000 MILES) MAY NEED A NEW CHAIN TO ALLEVIATE THIS PROBLEM. LOOSE CHAIN CAN CAUSE CAM TIMING TO VARIATE CAUSING A SLIGHT MISFIRE. THIS MISFIRE COULD ALSO BE THE RESULT OF DIRTY CARBS. IF SO THEY WILL NEED CLEANING AND SYNCING.
Hello windy....There are a few thing on the murano that could cause this... one is the exhaust gussets that go to the bottom of the oil pan to the exhaust, they can crack and cause a rattling noise. Also I have seen the rear exhaust heat shield spot welds come loose and cause a rattling noise, from exhaust manifold down pipe on the cat. converter. I would check them first, also the park brake cable will lose tension and rattle on the undercarriage. A more serious problem would be the timing chain and/or chain tensioners...these are known to make noise around 50-60k. The tensioners are operated from oil pressure, the face gets worn, the chain stretches and it results in a rattle or a slapping noise Useing a full synthetic oil with regular maintaince will help prevent premature wear. Good luck, i hope this helps..please rate me a fixya.
If the chain is making a rattling noise it is too loose and also needs chain oil. Lubricate and adjust the chain before riding again. A loose chain can come off and do some really nasty damage to the bike and to the rider.
Ever had the rear wheel lock up at 60 MPH and have your body fly over the handlebars and onto the street? Pay attention to the chain.
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