Question about 2003 Honda Xr 250

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I lost spark on 2002 honda xr250r any ideas i have changed stator and ignition control module

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Make sure the kill switch is not the problem. It should make a circuit when in the on position. A burnt out resister in the spark plug cap can also keep the spark from happening. Also check that there are no broken wires in the wire harness.
If you do have spark but the machine doesn't run make sure that the valves are adjusted correctly.
IN: 0.10 +/- 0.02 mm (0.004 +/- 0.0001 in).
EX: 0.12 +/- 0.02 mm (0.005 +/- 0.0001 in).
Honda dirt models of this engine type will not run if the exhaust valve is set too tight.

Posted on Mar 26, 2011

  • internat68 Mar 26, 2011

    i have no power going to the coil

  • David Belcher
    David Belcher Mar 26, 2011

    Bypass the kill switch.

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  • 133 Answers

Make sure you check the coil

1. make sure theres a connestion between the coil and the plug
2. make sure all wires are securely plugged in
3. replace coil if needed

Posted on Mar 26, 2011

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Hi, Todd and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting, leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
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Hi, Donald and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
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Hi, Jdebord if you have a CKP sensor it needs compression to send the correct signal to the ICM/ECM, make sure both spark plugs are in heads and use a grounded third plug to check for spark or hold spark plug cable close to spark plug in the head. If still not getting spark the usual suspects are:
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2. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
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7. Faulty ignition switch.
8. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
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Hi, Gladys_rober and the usual suspects are:
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3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
8. Faulty ignition switch.
9. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
10. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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My Honda CBR 954 will not fire up after dropping on the left side; it spent over a month at a certified Honda shop before they gave up on it. We went throw the wire harness, and already changed the ICB,...


Any Honda dealer that spent a month on your bike and had no success is a Honda dealer that I would avoid ever going to a second time. A bike needs gas, air to burn the gas, compression to make use of the burning gas, a timed spark for igniting the gas, and a path for the burned gas to exit the cylinder. Go to a different dealer. Tell them to check the fuel delivery, air intake, compression, spark timing and spark quality, and exhaust system. Fuel delivery and spark are the most likely source of the problem. This ain't rocket science. I think you will find the first Honda dealer's "mechanic" is totally incompetent. Simply hooking up a code reader should point the mechanic in the right direction.

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Hi Tombt, and the usual suspects are:
1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
2. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking.
3. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
4. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
5. Battery nearly discharged.
6. Damaged wire or loose/broken connections at battery terminals/cables, especially the "NEGATIVE" cable at both ends, ignition coil, or plug between ignition sensor and module.
7. Intake air leak.
8. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system, carburetor and/or filter.
9. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carburetor vent line closed off.
10. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
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12. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
13. Faulty MAP, CKP, and/or CMP sensors.
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1 Answer

1985 Honda CR250 no spark


Hi, Melisamoore2 and the usual suspects are:
1. Fouled spark plugs.
2. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Loose connection at ignition coil or plug between ignition sensor and module.
5. Spark plug cables in bad condition, shorting/leaking, spark plug cable connections loose check for spark leakage in the dark.
6. Faulty ignition coil or electronic control module.
7. Faulty CKP, CMP, or BAS sensor.
8. Faulty ignition switch.
9. Tilt sensor needs a reset.
10. Security alarm failing to disarm needs reset
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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2 Answers

No spark from spark plug wires I think it may be the distributor cap or interior parts under cap like rotor and condensor but dont want to change parts thats are fine i replaced the plugs but still no...


There wrere two types of HEI (High Energy Ignition) distributors used by GM in 1985, one was the original design with the ignition coil mounted in the top of the distributor cap, and the second had the coil mounted seperate from the distributor and used a coil wire.

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is even getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also if the coil is seperate from the distributor that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That could be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require any further assistance.


GM HEI Ignition Coil (Mounted In Distributor Cap Type)
264bd9f.jpg

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1 Answer

How much oil in xr250r??


Oil change only...
XR250L XR250R................................. 1.3 liters (1.37 US qt)
XR400R.............................................. 1.7 liters (1.8 US qt)

Oil & filter change...
XR250L XR250R................................. 1.4 liters (1.5 US qt)
XR400R.............................................. 1.8 liters (1.9 US qt)

After engine rebuild...
XR250R, 1986 through 1995 XR250L..... 1.6 liters (1.7 US qt)
1996 and later XR250R........................ 1.7 liters (1.8 US qt)
XR400R.............................................. 2.2 liters (2.3 US qt)

Jul 11, 2009 | 1997 Honda XR 250 R

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