Question about Harley Davidson FXDCI Dyna Super Glide Custom Motorcycles

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Hey,, call me,, 805 815 5553. 1970 knuckhead with electronic ignition.. blue an white wires.. hooked up hot to the blue wire.. DID i fry it? kevingraehl@gmail.com

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  • Harley Davidson Master
  • 43,716 Answers

Hi Kevingraehl, call, take a ride or trailer your bike over to your local dealers service/parts department, I'm sure they will be happy to take your Harley Davidson for a test ride if necessary/possible and offer professional advice and assistance concerning your issue. Good luck have a nice day.

Posted on Jun 26, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: ignition

I hope this diagram helps, it did me!

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Posted on Jul 24, 2009

  • 323 Answers

SOURCE: ignition wiring for 1986 honda rebel

I hate to say this, but I personally don't believe a universal ignition like that will work for your 250. I think you're going to have to go for an exact replacement design. That doesn't mean it has to be the same manufacturer, but at least match the specs at locations for wires as your original does.

Sirwriter

Posted on Nov 06, 2009

  • 21 Answers

SOURCE: wiring diagram for 1980 triumph t140v ignition

Get a Haynes Manual. I work on my own bikes with a Factory Manual, The Haynes or Clymer Manual and a Parts Book. If you are going to do your own work you need these books. Period.

http://www.themotorbookstore.com/trium65twin1.html

Here are some simple diagrams that give the basic idea of what works for the Typanium Rectifier set up.

http://www.raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc10.html

Here is a good site for "Home Mechanics".. I love this site.. has some great Triumph stuff and repair info.

www.jockeyjournal.com

Jim

Posted on Mar 22, 2010

czaa
  • 4536 Answers

SOURCE: on a 1984 650 yamaha maxim ignition switch there

go to a clymer manual and theres color wire pages-sayonara

Posted on Jun 29, 2010

wd4ity
  • 4565 Answers

SOURCE: I need a wiring diagram for a electronic ignition module.

If I understand correctly, Your bike has points in it now and you want to go to electronic ignition. If that's what you want to do, I would suggest that you go with one of the aftermarket ignition units. They're more versatile, costs less, and easier to install.

There are two types available. Your bike has a mechanical timing advance unit behind the points breaker plate. One type of electronic unit eliminates this mechanical part and makes the system truly maintenance free while the other type retains the mechanical advance unit and cost less. A prime example is Crane Cam's HI-1 unit that retains the mechanical advance and their HI-4 unit that eliminates it. Most bikes made after 1984 do not have the mechanical advance units. Since your bike does not have any of the original components left on it, I would suggest that you get one of the units that goes in the "nose cone" of the engine. It simply replaces the everything in there if you get the unit that does not use the mechanical advance. The Mechanical advance units are prone to wear and since no one ever services them, I'd suggest getting rid of it. You'll have to purchase a "timing cup" from Harley, costs about $20, a lot less than $100 bucks for needle bearing mechanical advance unit. Get the shorter screw that goes with it as well.

All you have to have with either unit is a "hot" wire going to the coil. The coil must have a primary resistance of somewhere around 3-4 ohms where a points type coil has a primary resistance of 4-6 ohms. To determine the resistance of your coil use a Digital Volt Ohm Meter and measure the resistance between the two small terminals on the coil. To wire the ignition units is usually just a two or three wire hookup that is very simple. They all come with wiring instructions.

Now, the next thing is whether you wish to stick with "dual fire" ignition or go to "single fire" ignition. Dual fire is the system that almost all Harley's come equipped with from the factory. In this type of system, both spark plugs fire when the pistons are top dead center. Since one piston is on the exhaust stroke, that spark is of no consequence and therefore is considered a 'wasted spark". In a "single fire" system, the spark plugs fire independently when each piston comes to TDC on the compression stroke. It requires either two coils or a "two in one" type coil. This added coil increases the cost of the system and to be honest with you, I cannot tell a difference between the two systems. With that in mind, I opt to go with the less expensive and simplier "dual fire" system.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=2&prt=4
http://www.compufire.com/harley-main.html
http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/harley_davidson_category.aspx

Custom Chrome online catalog. http://www.customchrome.net//icatalog/full.aspx?Page=571

Ok, this will get you started. Installing an electronic ignition system in an older Harley is easy to do. The difficult part is deciding which one to go with. Once you do that, no problem. If you have anymore questions, drop me a line at wd4ity@bellsouth.net .

To see how to hook up one of the units, go to their website and look for a "Technical" page. Go to that page and look for "installation Instructions". Print them out and it'll tell you everything you need to know. If not, I've got some different types of systems installation instructions that I can scan and send to you.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Jul 04, 2010

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99 neon dome light wire diagram


Hooked all wires up right??? Fuse is fine??? Somehow, I do not think this is the case. I wish I had a dollar for every time I have seen this happen....I would be a VERY rich man!

You do not need a dome lamp diagram. You need to replace Fuse #13 (10 Amp) in the Power Distribution Center in the engine compartment. This will make the power return to the PINK wire and get your dome lamps working.

The only way that the RED/WHITE wire is going to have power with the ignition switch off is if either the ignition switch is shorted to power or the RED/WHITE wire got hot enough to melt the insulation in the wire harness and short to another B+ wire. This wire is supposed to have power when the ignition switch is in the RUN and ACC positions. Make sure it is in the OFF position. If this wire still has power, then YES, you probably smoked the wiring harness. If this is the case, the dash should be removed so that full access to the wiring harness can be achieved, allowing a full inspection/repair of ALL of the damage (there are most likely several other wires in the harness that have also been damaged).

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Wiring diagram sunsmart. I am replaceing a timer swithch of a differnt brand. I have a single pole installation, but the power enters the fixture and then comes to the switch. The diagram in the box...


Sounds like you have the GE sunsmart timer, and are wiring the timer for single-pole.
Following information does not apply to 3-way timer wiring.
Add a comment if you have different timer.

Start with previous timer:
The previous timer was connected to two wires: Hot wire and Load wire.
Hot wire carries power from circuit breaker.
Load wire connects to fan,light, or motor.

How to wire Sunsmart:
1) Only one wire in the electrical box is Hot. That wire is usually black. Connect black Hot wire to timer-black wire.
2) Load wire connects to timer-blue wire.
3) Timer-red wire is capped off for single-pole wiring.
4) Timer-green wire connects to bare copper wire.
5) Timer-white wire connects to Neutral wire. This will power the timer electronics. The previous timer probably had a battery to power timer electronics. Neutral wires are white wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut and pushed to back of box.
6) If box does not have Neutral wires, then connect timer-white wire to bare copper ground wire until neutral wire can be run from any nearby outlet box.
7) Try the timer, and if timer does not work, then reverse timer-blue and timer-black.

Resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/GE-timers-and-manuals.html#15312

Add a comment for more help

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Oct 01, 2011 | Hardware & Accessories

1 Answer

The wires for hooking this fan up are white,black and blue my guess is white and black are hot and blue is a ground wire. is this right?


White (Neutral) White to White

Blue (Light to Hot) Blue to Black (optional)

Black (Fan to Hot) Black to Black

Green (Ground to Ground) Green to Green

If you do not have a green lead you might see a green screw to attach the ground wire from the house power. The fan has the optional light fixture future connect the blue wire to the black hot wire. If you have the optional light fixture you may want to connect it to a separate switch power.

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I have a 1979 harley sportster and have switched it over to an electronic ignition module (Dyna S) dual fire. I have a drag specialties dual fire coil with two poles (for the wires coming from the...


The original wires, one blue and one white, were with the points ignition. The white wire should be the "Hot" wire. Now, look at your wiring diagram. The two white wires should go together to one side of the coil and the blue to the other. There is no positive or negative side of the coil, just two small primary winding terminals. Make sure the white wire from the ignition system is the "hot" or power wire for 12 volts. If you connect the ignition unit up backwards, it will damage it. To make sure the white wire on the bike is the hot wire, simply turn the ignition switch on and check this wire with a test light or volt meter. It should show battery voltage on it. That should be your setup, two white wires on one end of the coil and a blue wire on the other.

Good Luck
Steve

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Generally your hook up is like this.
G - Ground - Green or bare wire
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R - Switched - Hot when on
On your three wire
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you should also check: http://www.intermatic.com

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http://www.intermatic.com/~/media/files/intermatic/products/instructions/timers/ei600c%20-%20english.ashx

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3 Wire protectorelay
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1 Answer

Cd player


The yellow wire goes to + (hot) 12 volt constant, red wire goes to ignition switch, Hook up your amp together with the red wire
(switched) and the amp will come on with the ignition switch.
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Leadispenser

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Re sent wire diagram gat all messed up


Hi
have we spoke before in previous post?
the red can go to any 12v live peramanent such as wire to clock or other item that has power with ignition off and the same with the yellow if your putting these to the same permanent live say from clock you can join these to together red/yellow to red on clock
the black can go to any metal or neg wire.
This should then have your device working the only problem im looking at for you now is the pink wire as this stops you using the device whilst driving as it goes to handbrake but i need to find out if its live or negative.
You could just wire the red/yellow to live and black to earth then see if it switches on and works if not then let me know and ill see about the pink wire ok
Makes sure you use inline fuses on the live wires so as not to short the device out.
Make sure you know what is permanent live to put the yellow/red wire to.
It doesnt need to be ignition it only says this so you cant use it with ignition off but you can wire it into any live feed from clock or switches so its up to you what to wire it to its just the pink wire im concerned about.

PINK: does it tell you to put it to live or earth on handbrake switch?

let me know ok

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1 Answer

Amp cd proble3m


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