Question about 2004 Honda GL 1800 Gold Wing
Cruise control light comes on but will not set @
Hi, Bronzefloor1 cruise control systems are complicated any type of failure should be diagnosed and repaired by a certified technician that being said here is a list of troublemakers and the usual suspects are:
1. Faulty front or rear brake light switches.
2. Faulty TPS sensor.
3. Faulty clutch safety switch.
4. Faulty Idle cable roll-off switch.
5. Faulty cruise control on/off switch.
6. Faulty run/off switch.
7. Faulty set/resume switch.
8. Faulty stepper motor.
9. Speed is below 30mph.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
cruise control switch not working GL1800 Information Questions... Gold Wing Cruise Control And Reverse Troubleshooting
Honda GL1800 Service Manual
Honda Goldwing GL1800 Owner Manual
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Posted on Feb 02, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
(Better1969) is correct. I just bought a 1983 Aspencade and there was no sound to my speakers. The gentleman I bought the bike from supplied new speakers but I quickly ruled that out. There are 3 fuse links behind the left turn signal in the fairing. 1 was a 1 amp, 1 was a 2 amp and the blown fuse was a 5 amp. I didn't have a 5 amp so I put a 2 amp in its place. So far the sound is still working but my FM radio reception is very poor.
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
With the car turned off and the battery disconnected, root around under the dash and find the wiring harness that comes down from the steering column. You may have to remove a dash panel or two to get at it. It should be connected to the car's main wiring harness with a plug of some sort. Disconnect the plug.
Using a multi-meter set to test continuity, test pairs of pins in the connector from the steering column, pressing the CC switch with each pair, until you find the pair that come from the CC switch.
Isolate the wires for these two pins behind the plug and scrape away a tiny bit of insulation with a knife blade, being careful not to cut through the wire. Test the wire pair again to be sure you've got the CC switch wires.
Cut the wires, leaving several inches of wire above the plug to work with. Using a good quality crimp connector (or soldering, if you know how and have the equipment), connect the two wires you just cut loose (the two coming from the plug, not the steering column).
Make sure there are no bare wires *anywhere* when you're done. Cover everything with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape, then use a tie-wrap to bind all the wires together again. Return the wiring harness to where you found it and re-install any dash panels you had to remove.
Reconnect the battery and go for a drive. The CC switch will be totally out of the circuit, but your CC should be permanently turned on.
Now here's the fun part. You'll have an extra momentary-contact switch on your steering wheel that's not doing anything. Just think of the possibilities... You could use it for an auxiliary air horn like on a semi-truck, or you could wire it into your brake lights so you could screw with tail-gaters without actually stepping on the brakes. Look for the switch somewhere on your brake pedal assembly and add two wires from the old CC switch to the contacts on the brake pedal switch.
Posted on Sep 09, 2009
Common problem - this happened to me yesterday and many reports on the internet of similar. The switch has to be replaced (around $26-36 for the part) but most dealers quote $150 for labor. No-one yet has done it due to proximity to airbag but I will be asking questions at the dealer. I am prepared to spend an extra $10 buying the part there if they tell me how to do it myself!
Posted on Sep 05, 2010
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