Question about Yamaha YZ 125 Motorcycles

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If i take the spark plug out and poor just a little gas inside the whole and put the spark plug back and kick start it it will start but to just give it a quick start with out doing that it wont start

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In my experience you have to get a new spark plug i just went through that

Posted on Mar 25, 2011

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I am having tvs scooty es 2003 model. I Had put the new battery for self start but even though the self start is not working. The local mechanic is telling the battery is ok, but the self motor has to be...


put premium gas in it to help clean/start it better take the spark plugs out spra a little starting fluid on the plug stick it in then kick the bike a few good times it should start and run a little better i suggest puting some lucus oil in the gas also to help...the self motor shouldn't cost to much if you do it yourself you will save a bundle let me know if this solves your problem

Jun 03, 2011 | 2011 TVS Scooty Pep Plus

2 Answers

My 1996 xr 250r wont start drom the kickstart but it will start if you pushstart it can any one help me??


Hi
If the kick-start is seized or lacks resistance when you try to turn it then the mechanism will have to be investigated
If the kick-start feels normal, the spark is good when kicking her over & the performance is well down then there is probably a lack of compression

Ride Safe
Bike-Doc

Sep 29, 2010 | 1996 Honda XR 250 R

1 Answer

I have a honda xr 250 2002 that will not start. It has good spark, valves are are all adjusted correctly, compression is fine, and fuel is making it to the plug. I am having issues with fuel flowing out...


Kicking over is the action of moving the engine with the kick-starter. I will presume it kicks over but does not fire at all.

It really sounds like flooding.

Drain the carb, and disable fuel delivery. If the shutoffs are vacuum operated pull that line and put a golf tee in it. If manual, turn to off.

Remove the plug, and turn the engine over enough to be sure the insides are dry.

Out the plug back in, and give it a shot of starer fluid (careful with that stuff!), and try to start it. If it shows some signs of life, then you almost certainly are flooding.

Use a syringe to put a dose of fuel in the carb through the float chamber vent. Make sure it is not too much. Again, give it a little shot of starter fluid, and see if it will start and run sustained a little as it feeds on the gas you put into the carb. If it will, your float and needle change either was done incorrectly, or the float height was not adjusted right.

Jul 07, 2010 | 2003 Honda Xr 250

1 Answer

Turns over hard, acting like it want to start, plugs have gas on them a little, but it still wont start , it's an 88 LeSabre Limited with the 3800


If the plugs themselves are wet the whole sparking process won't work; the plugs must be dry basically.
Here's what you should try: remove all of the spark plugs and let the whole thing sit open to dry/air out over night.
Or, the thing I've heard from crazy people... remove the plugs and flash the plugs and plug-holes over a few times with a propane torch(be sure to get the plug wires out of the way). Be prepared for fire coming from the plug holes, burn off all that gas from the plugs and from inside the holes.
At this point you shouldn't need to let things sit open since everything burned up... re-insert and tighten up your plugs, hook the wires back up & give it a go.
Another issue encountered, and although it didn't prevent the vehicle from starting, it did cause issues, was that we had a cracked plug. Either move the vehicle into a dark building, or wait for it to get dark outside, and open the hood up. While trying to start, see if you can identify dancing arc's or flashes coming from under the hood... to assist in making things more obvious people suggest spraying water from a misting sprayer over the plug wires(those can potentially fail causing electricity to arc from them as well). Any arc that happens outside of the cylinder is robbing your vehicle of spark/firing power.

Also, as a visual check for spark... remove one plug from a hole and hook its wire to it. Touch the threads of the plug to a bare metal part on the engine and have someone else try to start the car... you should be able to see it sparking. And don't worry, the open cylinder doesn't put out enough gas/fumes to cause an explosion in the few seconds it takes to perform the spark inspection.
If you notice that the plug isn't sparking, make sure that you're grounded to the vehicle and try again. If you cannot get spark at all, your problem is electrical and that will require a more technical approach: cap, rotor, coil, igniter, fuses - somewhere in there.
I hope that turns out well for you.

Jan 07, 2010 | 1992 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

Got given a old yz 80 changed piston and rings its fireing but wont start?


I'll start with the obvious.... have you tried removing the plug, putting a little gas in the cylinder, putting the plug in and wire back on and then kicking it over? If it starts, runs for a couple seconds and dies (burns off the gas you just put in there), it's a fuel or fuel delivery problem. Has the carb been cleaned, the needle and seat checked, the float height checked, air passages cleaned out, etc.? These carbs are famous for getting gummed up after sitting a while. (I have 4 dirtbikes and clean the carbs every spring before firing them up for the first time). Is the oil to fuel mix ratio correct? Too much oil will cause this as well. If it doesn't start with gas poured in the cylinder as mentioned above, check to see how strong of a spark you have and if the plug is gapped correctly. The spark should be bright blue. Hopefully you know how to check this, but if not, take the plug out, put the plug wire back on the plug and lay the electrode end of the plug (spark end) up against the cylinder head with the end of the plug touching metal and kick the kick starter over. You should see a bright blue spark. If it's a weak spark (not bright blue) it's an electrical problem such as a faulty coil. (WARNING: DO NOT HOLD THE PLUG IN PLACE WITH YOUR BARE HAND when kicking it over. You will get zapped good if the coil/spark are ok.) Try these troubleshooting tips and then let us know the result. We'll go from there.

Oct 29, 2009 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 125

1 Answer

HAVE HARDLEY ANY SPARK ON MY WR 250 HAD STATOR CHEEKED NOTHING WRONG,


if the stator is producing suffient voltage then it's not being amplified by the coil possibe causes are poor grounding of the coil, poor primary electrical connection to the coil from the stator a compromized kill swith wires or possible some water in the switch it self keep in mind it takes two conductors to make a spark are you grounding the plug to bear metal when you are kicking it over ?
and have you tried a different spark plug doesent take much spark it can be pretty difficult to to visualy deterimine if you have suffient spark try putting a tea spoon of gas down the cylinder put the plug back in -cap on a kick it a few times if it fires you might be on the wrong track
Good Luck

Oct 06, 2009 | 2006 Husqvarna WR 250

1 Answer

Wont start


ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on carburetors.
Remove the water trap bowl at the bottom of the petcock, (gas valve). Is there any water or trash in the bowl? Drain a cup of gas from the tank. Is there any water or trash in the cup? Dump it, clean it and re-mount it, ( not all bikes have a water trap bowl ).

Drain the carburetor. There should be a screw on the lower side or bottom of the carb float bowl. Remove the screw then replace it after the fuel drains. Turn the gas back on and wait a minute for the carb to fill with gas. Install a new stock NGK spark plug and try to start the engine. If the bike doesn't start and run properly then shut off the gas and remove the carburetor from the engine.

Remove the float bowl and clean the entire carb with a spray carb cleaner from the auto parts store. Wear protective goggles to avoid getting spray in your eyes. Spray into all the little airways and fittings in the carb. Remove the idle screw and the air screw on the outside throat of the
carb and spray into the screw holes as well.
< < READ CLOSELY > >
Be sure to put these two screws back in the same hole they came out of. IMPORTANT > do not tighten these two adjusters down. Only screw these in until they LIGHTLY seat. Now turn each adjuster one and one half turns outward. Put the rest of the
carb back together, clean the air filter and install the carb. Let the float bowl fill then start the engine.

There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting.
  • The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
  • The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
  • The de-compression lever, always used.
  • The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting.

Jun 28, 2009 | 1992 Gilera Saturno Bialbero

2 Answers

VERY hard starting takes way to many kicks usually play out befo


There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting.
  • The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
  • The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
  • The de-compression lever, always used.
  • The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. Give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kickstart lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from a backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting.

Top rating for this answer? Thanks!

Jun 11, 2009 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 250 F

1 Answer

2005 250 f 65 kicks to start


Several things can cause the problem. First, spring for a new spark plug. The stock plug is NGK CR8E. Now the plug is eliminated as a problem. Next, pull the slide out of the throat of the carb. Now remove the jet needle. Put the needle clip on the 4th notch, (this is the stock setting). Use only premium gas. Next, follow the starting instructions below.

There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting.
  • The choke, used when the engine is cold. Pull the red knob for choke.
  • The " Hot Start " Lever, used when the engine is hot. Pull the lever to lean the fuel mix when the engine has been running.
  • The de-compression lever, always used.
  • The throttle, used to prime the cylinder.
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. Release the de-compression lever and give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from a backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. A good battery and clean air filter will also aid in starting.

This will likely tame the beast for you. Please rate this answer. Thanks!

Jun 06, 2009 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 250 F

3 Answers

03 YZ not starting


I don't think this is a float issue. One way to check is to turn the gas off, take the bowl off the carb, hold the float up, and turn the gas back in. If fuel flows, the float needle is toast. It sounds suspiciosly like a worn topend, but it could also be a clogged jet ot fuel filter, or a faulty CDI.

Nov 10, 2008 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 125

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