Question about Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy Motorcycles

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How do i change a cam cover gasket on a 1999 harley davidson fat boy

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Hi guys if your on about an 1340 evo,you dont have to take the top end apart,all you have to do is!take your timing cover off and remove the timing from the bike,now jack the back wheel off the ground and remove the spark plugs,now rotate the back wheel forwards until the notch on the end of the cam shaft is at the 5pm position,in this position both cam lobes are down taking the tenshion off the pushrods just make sure you hold the cam in the 5pm position with your thumb while you slide the cam cover off,i did mine 2wks ago,Harley tech told me it is a trick of the trade and it worked fine,done in 50 mins.

Posted on Jun 05, 2013

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Replacing the gasket on the cam cover of your Fat Boy is not a job for the faint hearted. It''s quite complicated because of the fact that you must get the pressure off the cam to get the cam cover back on once you get it off. You must also be very careful as to not change the camshaft timing with either the pinion gear or the breather gear.

If your Fat Boy has stock pushrods in it, you'll have to take the fuel tanks off, the air filter, and then take the rocker box covers off. Rotate the engine until you get one cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke with both valves closed. Pull the push rod tube expanders out collapsing the pushrod tube and take the 5/16" bolt at the right end of the rocker arm shaft out. Slide the rocker arm shaft out and remove the rocker arm and the pushrod. Do this on boht the intake and exhaust pushrods. Notice that the pushrods are color coded meaning that they go in a particular location. Do not get them mixed up. Do the same thing to the other cylinder. The purple colored pushrod goes to the rear exhaust, the blue coded pushrod goes to the rear intake, the yellow coded pushrod goes to the front intake, and the green coded pushrod goes to front exhaust.

Now, that you have all the pushrods out of the engine, take the bolts out of the tappet guides and remove them. Keep the tappets in their original bores, do not mix them up. Check the roller bearings on end of the tappets for any up and down play. If you find a worn tappet, it should be replaced. You can replace the gasket on the cam cover without removing the tappet guides but you must remove the pushrods to get the pressure off the cam. If you remove the tappet guides, you will need a pair of "alignment pins" to align the tappet guides with the camshaft upon reinstalling them. Torque the bolts to 100 inch pounds.

Now, remove the cover that covers the ignition timing unit in the nosecone. Mark the timing plate inside the cavity so that you can reposition it in exactly the same place when you go to put it all back together. Remove the timing plate and the timing "cup" behind it. Take all the bolts out of the timing cover. The cover is mounted on two large dowel pins. You can pry the oil pump side of the cam cover off just a bit with a large screwdriver. Then, use a thin putty knife to work the other side loose. YOU MUST HOLD THE CAM IN POSITION BY PUSHING INWARD ON IT AS YOU REMOVE THE CAM COVER. DO NOT ALLOW THE CAM TO COME FAR ENOUGH TO LET IT GET OUT OF TIMING WITH EITHER THE PINION GEAR OR THE BREATHER GEAR. IT MUST BE TIMED CORRECTLY. The bolts that hold the cam cover on are different lengths, remember where they go.

When you go to reinstall the cam cover, make sure you get all the bolts in the correct holes. Reinstall the tappet blocks if you took them out. Reinstall the pushrods, pushrod tubes, and rocker arms in the last cylinder that you removed them from. Torque the 5/16" bolt to 13-15 foot pounds. Wait for the tappets to bleed down and you can turn them with your fingers. Turn the engine until the other cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke. Reinstall the pushrods, pushrod tubes, and rocker arms on that cylinder. Again wait until the pushrods will spin with your fingers before rotating the engine.

Reinstall the timing cup and the timing plate in the timer cavity in the cam cover. Make sure you get the marks you put on the plate and the cover aligned precisely. Reinstall the rocker boxes with new gaskets. Torque the bolts to 80-100 inch pounds. Reinstall the fuel tanks.

Posted on Mar 25, 2011


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I am switching from syn oil to reg hd oil on a 1992 flstf. Do I need to drain the engine case? If so, where is the plug located? Is there anything else I need to be aware of? THANKS

I would purchase a Harley Davidson repair manual or get one on CD from ebay not as much as a paperback and just as good. The repair manual is a mechanics best friend. Remember buy one it is the best friend you can have when doing maintenance on you harley.

The drain plug can be hard to find. In the 2001 Fat Boy, it is in front of the back motorcycle tire between the Fat Boy's rear shocks.

To do the oil change you need to warm up the oil so it drains better.

Tilt the motorcycle to its right side and position your oil catchment container under the oil plug.

Use your wrench set to unscrew the oil drain plug. In a 2001 Harley Davidson Fat Boy, you need a wrench that will fit a 1/4-inch screw.

Drain the oil. While oil is draining from your Harley Davidson, use the time to clean out the magnet and rubber ring positioned under the oil drain plug.

Remove and replace the oil filter after the oil has drained. Refill with 3 to 4 quarts of engine oil. Replace all parts, including drain plug.

Remember the HD manual will tell you how to check the level of primary fluid needed. Each HD is different and needs different amounts.

You check your primary fluid level through the inspection cover, which is the oval cover in the middle of the primary cover. You'll need a T25 Torx wrench to remove the bolts. Have a new inspection cover gasket in case you need it.

Add the fluid through the inspection cover. You can use any kind of oil petroleum or synthetic as long as it does not contain friction modifiers.

replace the gasket on the inspection cover if needed. Tighten bolts finger tight; then tighten the bolts at 10 foot pounds. Start with the top bolt and then tighten the bottom bolt. The third bolt is the right one, and the left bolt is last.

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