Question about Honda CX 500 B Motorcycles

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Hi,got an 82 Cx650E,1 yr old ground up restoration and looks mint.Had rings,valve grind,cam chain and rad recored new gaskets everywhere etc,but is over heating.Have checked thermostat in a pot on stove and opened correctly,thermostastic switch gave continuity at 92.5 deg,which is correct for fan to get switched off,put back together and ran at idle in garage and after 40 mins boiled the water out of the top tank of rad and the fan never came on.Let it cool for about 1.5 hrs and topped up and started again with water at 25deg C in the top tank no cap on the rad with both trials,and I assume the thermostat opened up allowing the hot coolant to travel into the rad and the temp shot up to 74deg and sat there for a short while then climbed to 82deg and sat there briefly then climbed up to boil and spilled out the filler neck again.,this happened after only 5 to 7mins.I assume that the thermostatic switch doesn't turn the fan on because the bottom of the rad doesn't get hot enough to trigger it,as it was new 1 yr ago and should be fine.The fan works normally if you just put 12v across it.I did while on a run get some excess coolant drops on the eng and side cover etc,possibly from the cap and the wind blowing it on the bike as I drove along after heating up too much, before I looked at it further. I'm at my wits end as to the problem,and am thinking headgasket,but need help with the problem.All the while the catch tank would never get below the low mark on the side of it and after the last boil over from the rad with the cap off,it is just on the full mark.The water pump is a year old and seems fine,as I've just had the bike for 2 weeks and never had a good run out of it I'm keen to get the problem sorted.any help would be appreciated.cheers,Lindsay.Bike isn't in the list but very similar to the 500 which is,but has an elec fan.

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  • bandits456 Mar 24, 2011

    Will try what you have suggested and get back to you with the result,cheers, Lindsay.

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  • Honda Master
  • 11,800 Answers

I'm assuming that you have bled the cooling circuit accordingly - if the engine gets a vapor lock it will overheat extremely fast.
The first thing you should do is to take out the thermostat, start the engine and open the cap on the radiator with the engine running to see if the water is in moving . If it is then the water pump is too weak, you will have to replace it.
If it doesn't then the water doesn't gets circulated thru the rad so either the pump isn't working or you have a blockage somewhere on the cooling circuit. The first thing you should check is the status of the radiator: take it out and pour water on the top connection -if it does goes out thru the bottom one you will know that is clogged - clean it or replace it. If the radiator is good then you will need to check the hoses (old ones start to break apart from the inside and the flaps of material block the water flow), the water pump (the pump itself and its shaft) and the gaskets. If all are ok then you will have to check the block - pour water on the top output spout and see if it gets out thru the pump location - if it doesn't the block is clogged and the only way to clean it is to boil it in a big tub with lime remover.

Posted on Mar 24, 2011

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Cost replace head gasket


wow, no year stated.!?? no location, no night time temperatures.?
ever to the work>?
costs vary by country, state and even the town.,
parts and labor.
before the gasket blew, did you run 50% antifreeze, and check it
each fall for 50% with the$2 tool> and 5min work?
if not , you will crack the head or block, (unless in key west .FL)

costs vary too, by what is wrong?, most times there are far more things wrong.
case in point, Rad leaks, hoses shot. water pump bad, and leaking
green at pump weep port. (signs)
new head gasket.
here is an example.
mech removes head , finds 2 head bolts snapped and 2hr wasted hrs.
then finds the head warped, (ask, measured .005" is bad)
then tests the valves and they leak (ask how) so sends it to the
machine shop and its $350 to grind valves and get head not warped
(heat relaxed and milled and pressure tested )he then installs the head, and times CAM and such.

as he puts on hoses, 2 snap in half, so asks owner, owner says,replace only the 2 bad hoses and ignore, the other very old
and near cracked hoses, mech rolls eyes,,,
flushes rad, new coolant, checks for leaks , it runs.

90% of all just head gaskets changed, fail, fast because all the checks were skipped.":
warp check
surface condition on deck and head.
cracks not seen or pressure tested
valves bad. and ignored.

so the cost can be as cheap as $25 , DIY, gasket
or $500 . DIY, (head bad)
not DIY , labor varies, can be $500 alone.

Jan 08, 2014 | Jeep Liberty Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Bike has annoying ticking noise from mostly rear cyl..bike is a 2000 shadow spirit, with 33000 miles, i was told valves needed adjustment at 30,000 miles , along with timing chain adj.. is this correct?


Without being able to stand next to the machine and listen it would be very hard to say what the noise is. Valves are generally easy to adjust and if loud have a high pitched tick sound. Cam chain adjusters generally self adjust and are reasonably quiet. If the automatic adjuster goes bad it will generally make a clatter sound or a loud clack. One thing you have not considered, if the the exhaust gaskets in the head go bad or leak air, they can also produce a loud ticking sound. You often hear this sound in older V8 engines. It sounds like a lifter is bouncing around inside the motor but the sound is caused by a blown gasket between the head and exhaust manifold. If you experience some popping/backfiring during deceleration try replacing your exhaust o-rings in the heads. This may solve both problems. If the problem is internal to the cylinder you may need to change a bad cam chain adjuster. As always start with the cheaper fixes and work your way up. Adjust valves and cam chain tensioner if not self adjusting, replace the exhaust gaskets next, and if that does not fix it, replace the cam chain tensioner. Hope this helps.

Aug 30, 2011 | Honda VT 1100 C Motorcycles

1 Answer

Warped cylinder head on 1994 Olds Cutlass Ciera... Options?


With heads that have a cam in them resurfacing is a non-option. If you resurface the head it's still bent and the cam(s) are binding in their bearings.

You can have a head pressed back into shape, it probably costs more money than going to the junkyard and getting a used head but may be comparable to a new head.

When you put another head on it don't grind or lap the valves. Grinding the valves on a motor that's not had a ring job tends to wash the rings out.

lp

Jan 18, 2011 | 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

1 Answer

Setting of timing chains


Get Ford timing tool kit, part = otc-6488 (For about $119 USD on eBay)

4 timing chains (3 front including the optional balance shaft chain + 1 back)

2 cam guides (1 front + 1 back)

2 oil tensioners (1 front + 1 back)

1 jackshaft tensioner (1 front)

1 jackshaft guide/cassette (1 front)

1 balance shaft tensioner (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

1 balance shaft guide (1 front) (will probably be ok, so dont replace it)

new sprockets + bolts + gaskets etc.

new spark plugs + throttle body cleaner + lithium grease spray + oil change

head gaskets


some of these parts (the front stuff) can be obtained as a primary timing chain rattle noise kit Part# = 2u3e-6d256-** ab for 4*4 & bb for 2*4.

The kits also have later part numbers for us$ 76 @ http://www.fordpartsonline.com


My parts order (without the balance shaft stuff) was:

$76.04 KIT-TENSIONER TIMING 2u3e-6d256-ab

$47.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Timing chain, TIMING CHAIN, Explorer, Mountaineer, Rear - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$57.36 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Chain guide, CHAIN GUIDE, Explorer, Mountaineer, Jackshaft To Cam - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$103.22 Engine, Overhaul gasket set, OVERHAUL GASKET SET, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper (Valve Grind) - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

$28.93 Engine, Camshaft and timing, Tensioner, TENSIONER, Explorer, Mountaineer, Upper - 4.0L SOHC - 4.0L SOHC

Its worth mentioning that this procedure is not enjoyable at all and should be undertaken with at least 8 full days to completion (I recon you could do it in half the time the second time).

It is basically on entire engine re-build with both heads off and the engine out of the vehicle.

It is not possible to do the rear chain or sprocket with the engine in the car as the flywheel needs to come off + at least 1 head, but it is possible to do the front primary chain and or front cam chain with the engine in the car.

You will be a ford exploder and timing expert after you do this - the main reason should be the love of your American built vehicle. Its a solid car - except for the plastic guides!

Disclaimer Note: This is how i successfully did the job, but i am not a ford mechanic and don't hold me responsible if this does not work for you.
Timing Overview

A Small Sprocket on the crank turns a larger (2 to 1 ratio) jackshaft sprocket that is in turn connected front & back to the 2 camshafts.

Thus a 360o turn of the crank will turn both the camshafts 180o.

Firing order is 1-4 2-5 3-6, Right side numbers 1,2,3. Left Side = 4,5,6.

At TDC pistons 1 & 5 are fully raised, thus 1 is about to spark & 5 is evacuated.

The engine will turn freely (no piston to valve contact) with the cams 180o out, it will even run (roughly) with 1 out 180o, any other settings may cause major damage to the valves.

The 2 cam shafts come with timing markings, "yes" real timing marks that anyone can use (even without special tools) to ensure correct timing.

The way to time it is to ensure both the off centre cam shaft slits are level/flat with the head.

With the engine at TDC both the cams need to have the off centre slot in the same position either up and level or down and level.

It is super critical that both the camshafts are 100% in sink with each other, i.e. not a few degrees off, the engine computer can compensate for crank timing but not engineering failure.

Be warned the camshafts can turn easily fast & hard by themselves as a few springs are compressed at TDC, I got my finger jammed and its still healing + if the engine is not at TDC you may damage a valve.

Now heres the hard thing that you will need special tools for - if you need to change the timing, you will need to be able to undo the cam sprocket bolt on both cams & these are done up real tight.

There is a tool that you attach that has 2 pencil thick shafts that fit into the sprocket and prevent it from turning - then you need to put about 90Nm of force on the bolt (remember the rear one if LHT)

For the $money$, its well worth getting yourself the tool kit - it will save you hours in the long run. Search eBay for otc-6488 should be US $119 - then sell them again for say $100.

There is also a tool version of the oil tensioner in the kit that screws right in and puts the correct amount of force on the chain + guide, to enable you to do up the cam bolt with the chain and sprocket in the right spot on the cam.


Dec 20, 2010 | 2003 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Head gasket got bent and I have replaced it . Now the problem I'm facing is how to set the crank shaft and the comshaft timing. I need the procedure for engine timing


Timing Chain & Gears Removal & Installation To Remove:
NOTE: Keep the cam chain away from magnetic fields.
Crankshaft set at TDC marks hnda_trk_crv_crank_tdc_marks.gif

  1. Turn the crankshaft pulley so its Top Dead Center (TDC) mark (1) lines up with the pointer (2).
  2. Raise and support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the front tires/wheels. Front undercar splash shield hnda_trk_crv_frt_under_splsh_shld.gif

  4. Remove the front undercar splash shield.
  5. Remove the drive belt.
  6. Remove the cylinder head cover (See section on Valve Cover).
  7. Remove the crankshaft pulley (See section on Crankshaft Damper). CKP sensor and VTC solenoid electrical connectors hnda_trk_crv_ckp_vtc_ele_conn.gif

  8. Disconnect the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor connector (1) and Variable Valve Timing Control (VTC) oil control solenoid valve connector (2).
  9. Remove the VTC oil control solenoid valve (See section on VTC Solenoid Valve).
  10. Support the engine with a jack and wood block under the oil pan. Ground cable and upper bracket removal hnda_trk_crv_grnd_cbl_uppr_brckt_rem.gif

  11. Remove the ground cable (1), and remove the upper bracket (2). Side engine mount bracket removal hnda_trk_crv_side_eng_mount_brckt_rem.gif

  12. Remove the side engine mount bracket. Timing chain cover removal hnda_trk_crv_timng_chain_cov_rem.gif

  13. Remove the timing chain cover bolts both from the front to the block and from the bottom to the oil pan.
  14. Remove the timing chain cover.
  15. Loosely install the crankshaft pulley. Compress the timing chain auto-tensioner hnda_trk_crv_compr_tim_chain_auto_tensnr.gif

  16. Turn the crankshaft counterclockwise to compress the auto-tensioner. Lock the timing chain auto-tensioner hnda_trk_crv_lock_tim_chain_auto_tensnr.gif

  17. Align the holes on the lock (1) and the auto tensioner (2), and then insert a 0.06 inch (1.5 mm) diameter pin (3) into the holes.
  18. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to secure the pin. Removal of the timing chain auto-tensioner hnda_trk_crv_rem_tim_chain_auto_tensnr.gif

  19. Remove the auto-tensioner. Removal of the timing chain guide B hnda_trk_crv_rem_tim_chain_guide.gif

  20. Remove the cam chain guide B. Removal of the timing chain guide A hnda_trk_crv_rem_tim_chain_guidea.gif

  21. Remove the cam chain guide A (1) and tensioner arm (2).
  22. Remove the cam chain.
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Oct 11, 2010 | 2002 Honda CR-V

1 Answer

I have a 5 yr old Gaggia Classic and it is due for a service any suggestions


Descale boiler, replace all the O-rings and gaskets(boiler gasket, group gasket, o-ring for the steam valve boiler connection, and the o-rings on the solenoid and expansion valve."

Apr 14, 2010 | Gaggia Classic Espresso Machine

1 Answer

I have a 2001 yamaha raptor, I just had the motor rebuild. The head has a tick in it, I checked my valve spacing made a couple adjustemant and it still ticks. The timing chain seems tight. Any ideas?(new...


Did you just have the motor rebuilt by a reputable shop? If so take it back and explain the problem and they should take care of it.
If not you are kinda on your own. What kinda tick? Could be leaking head gasket, base gasket, bad valve guides, incorrect bore, piston, rings. Incorrect ring gap, leaking exhaust gasket, out of time, etc, etc, etc, etc.

Nov 24, 2009 | Yamaha XT 660 R Motorcycles

1 Answer

Rancilio Silvia leaks around group head. Gasket seems fine.


HI
You need to change the group head gasket. They only last about 1 year and then should be changed. Get 2 because they usually fail on Friday and you have a party on Saturday.
The gaskets get hard from the heat and don't form to the filter any more so they leak.
When you get the new gasket.
Empty everything out of the machine (water tank, drip tray, etc.) Turn the machine upside down on a towel. This way you can see what your are doing.
Remove the filter screen and diffuser from the brew head. The black O-ring is your gasket. Carefully pry it out. Clean the opening good before you install the new gasket. Insert the gasket with the beveled side down (on the inside edge of the O-ring is the bevel). Once you have the gasket in place, use the portafilter to finish seating the gasket.

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3 Answers

04 crf 250r.... the head has a chattering noise when running


Any chance the valve spring has collapsed? Cam shaft thrust washers missing? Cam shaft bearing gone bad?
abe5193.gif b3c3550.gif Please rate this solution. Thanks!

Jun 22, 2009 | 2005 Honda CRF 250 R

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83 vf750f - engine rebuild questions


From another Honda guy,If it ain't broke don't fix it.(If you paid for a total rebuild,They would only replace what is bad)

May 20, 2009 | 1984 Honda VF 750 S

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