Question about Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster Motorcycles

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!977 sportser clutch adjustment and assembly - XLH 1000 Sportster Harley Davidson Motorcycles

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To adjust the clutch, first at the front of the primary cover, loosen the locknut and turn the cable adjuster into the primary cover all the way. Back at the rear of the primary cover, remove the round "plug", the spring and the locknut. Inside the hole, you'll see an adjuster rod with a screwdriver slot in it. Turn the screw clockwise until it stops then back off 1/4 turn. Replace the locknut, spring, and the plug. Adjust the cable adjuster out until you have about 1/8" freeplay.

If you have questions about the assembly of the clutch, please repost with a specific question and I'll answer it as best as I can.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Mar 25, 2011

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Need instructions on replacing the whole clutch


Remove all tension from the cable. Drain the fluid and remove the primary outer cover. Remove the primary chain adjuster. Remove clutch adjustment plate cir-clip and plate assembly . Lock compensatory and clutch sprockets. Loosen and remove compensator and clutch hub assembly nuts and assemblies. Remember that the clutch nut is a left hand thread.

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Yamaha royal star motorcycle cluch whine and shudder in 4th and 5th gear at any speed


It is slipping. These big yamahas normally have slipping clutches. Mine slips, I've just learned to baby the clutch. Make sure you are in the most comfortable gear for the speed you are running at. Avoid rolling on full power at low speeds in higher gears. It's the nature of these great beasts. Clutch springs are too weak in these bikes, you may consider an aftermarket clutch spring assembly. The "shudder"(intermittent slipping) is caused by glazing. Make sure you are using the right lubricants for your bike, some synthetics can cause problems.

1)Adjust clutch cable correctly, check
2)Pull the clutch assembly apart, if there is little wear then you have "glazed" plates, clean each plate with 600 grit sandpaper and reassemble...get a new clutch spring assembly (weakened spring causes "shudder", slippage, and consequently glazing). Reassemble and adjust correctly (many forums out there with info).
3)Replace the full assembly and adjust correctly at setup. Adjust regularly....I check adjustment about every 300-500 miles.
4)Pay a shop to do these things for you.

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2 Answers

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Did you properly adjust the clutch AND the clutch cable after you put in the new cable??? Is the whine only when you pull in the clutch lever and if so when does it start, first portion of lever movement or middle or when the lever is all the way to the handlebar grip??? NO noise when clutch is fully released????

Did you get the balls back into the ramp assembly correctly and install them with multi purpose grease to hold them in position while assembling. Also check that the rest of the parts were assembled correctly.

As a last point confirm that the new caqble assembly is the correct part.

Aug 28, 2014 | 2001 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883...

1 Answer

How do i pull the clutch assembly on a 84 fxrs


Disconnect the battery. Drain the primary oil and remove the outer primary cover. Remove the four bolts that hold the clutch spring in. Remove the clutch spring and pressure plate. Then, you can remove the friction and steel plates. If you want to remove the entire clutch assembly, you'll have to remove the nut from the transmission mainshaft and remove the sprocket shaft nut. The mainshaft nut that holds the clutch assembly on has LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Once you get the nut off, you'll need a clutch puller to get the clutch assembly off the tapered transmission mainshaft. Get one of the pullers that screw onto the mainshaft and you rap it with a hammer. You do not have to disassemble the clutch assembly completely to remove it from the mainshaft. You can take it off as a unit by removing the snap ring in the center and removing the adjuster plate. Remove the sprocket shaft nut, the chain adjuster nut, and the mainshaft nut and remove the engine sprocket, primary chain and clutch assembly all together.

Good Luck
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I have an 06 Sportser custom (XL) 1200 with 62K on it. Its getting hard to shift into gear and even harder to find nutreal. I've just had the clutch cable replaced dealer did not say anything about worn...


Could be the throwout bearing is worn out. Are you backing off the cable adjustments all the way before trying to adjust the clutch? 62K is not a lot of miles on a clutch, but I don't know the type rider you are.

Try this----back off the cable adjustments all the way, then unlock the nut inside the derby cover and try the adjuster. It should run in then get tension. If not, look at throwout bearing first, before the complete clutch.

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How to pull a starter off a 2004 harley sportser


Disconnect the battery, and remove the rear exhaust pipe. On the left side, you'll have to remove the outer primary. Just above the clutch assembly inside the primary, there are two bolts that you remove. Remove the positive battery cable from the starter and it comes out.

Good Luck
Steve

Feb 27, 2011 | 2004 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

1 Answer

Need 2 replace clutch on my 2001 softail duece


Remove the outer primary cover on left side. Don't forget to drain the oil first. Using a large pair of snap ring pliers, remove the clutch adjuster plate from center of clutch assembly. Remove compensator sprocket nut (very tight) and the clutch hub nut (left handed threads) and remove nut from bolt on primary chain adjuster. Grab the compensator sprocket and clutch assembly and lift out of inner primary.

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1 Answer

I need to tear down my transmission in a 1988 Chevrolet Cavalier Z24 2.8L i am fixing the clutch and i need diagrams on how to take it apart and put it back together


Below is process for removing and replacing the clutch assembly.
Hope this helps, good luck.
Regards,


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


See Figures 1, 2 and 3



0900c1528003be16.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the clutch disc and cover assembly
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. If equipped with a cable clutch (1982-84 vehicles), disconnect the cable at the clutch release lever and transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
  3. For 1985-94 vehicles remove the sound insulator from inside the vehicle. Disconnect the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal.




0900c1528003be17.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 2: Disconnect the clutch actuator (slave) cylinder line - 1995-96 vehicles
  1. Remove the transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.
  2. Mark the pressure plate assembly and the flywheel so that they can be assembled in the same position. They were balanced as an assembly at the factory.
  3. Loosen the attaching bolts one turn at a time until spring tension is relieved.
  4. Support the pressure plate and remove the bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Do not disassemble the pressure plate assembly; replace it if defective.
  5. Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and the clutch fork and pivot shaft assembly for wear. Replace the parts as required. If the flywheel shows any signs of overheating, or if it is badly grooved or scored, it should be refaced or replaced.




0900c1528003be18.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif Fig. Fig. 3: You must follow the specified sequence when tightening the pressure plate retaining bolts
To install:
  1. Clean the pressure plate and flywheel mating surfaces thoroughly.
  2. Position the clutch disc and pressure plate into the installed position, and support with a dummy shaft or clutch aligning tool, tool J 29074 or equivalent. The clutch plate is assembled with the damper springs offset toward the transaxle. One side of the factory supplied clutch disc is stamped "Flywheel Side".
  3. Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts. Tighten them in the sequence shown in the accompanying figure, as follows:
    1. Tighten bolts 1,2,3, then 4,5,6 in the sequence shown to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
    2. Tighten bolts 1,2,3, then 4,5,6 in the sequence shown to 15-22 ft. lbs. (22-30 Nm) plus an additional 30° turn.
    3. Remove the clutch alignment tool.

  4. Lubricate the outside groove and the inside recess of the release bearing with high temperature grease. Wipe off any excess. Install the release bearing.
  5. Install the transaxle, as outlined earlier in this section.



WARNING When adjusting the cruise control switch, do NOT exert an upward force on the clutch pedal pad of more than 20 lbs. (89 N) or damage to the master cylinder pushrod retaining ring may result.

  1. For 1985-94 vehicles, attach the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal and secure with the retaining clip. If equipped with cruise control, check the switch adjustment at the clutch pedal bracket. Install the sound insulator.
  2. If equipped with a cable clutch, attach the clutch cable at the transaxle and clutch release lever. Check the clutch operation by lifting the clutch pedal up to allow the mechanism to adjust the cable length. Depress the pedal slowly a few times to set the pawl into mesh with the quandrant teeth.


ADJUSTMENTS


All 1982-84 models have a self-adjusting clutch mechanism located on the clutch pedal, eliminating the need for periodic free play adjustments. The self-adjusting mechanism should be inspected periodically as follows:
  1. Depress the clutch pedal and look for the pawl on the self-adjusting mechanism to firmly engage the teeth on the ratchet.
  2. Release the clutch. The pawl should be lifted off of the teeth by the metal stop on the bracket.

On 1985 and later models, the hydraulic clutch system provides automatic clutch adjustment. No adjustment of clutch linkage or pedal position is required.

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