Question about 2000 Harley Davidson FLHR-FLHRI Road king

2 Answers

I started to adjusts the clutch in my 2005 road king , the jam nut was to tight for a wrench, it was stripping the nut,decided to used 3/8 impact to loosen the jam nut, I believed that Pressure was release from behind the jam nut. Have I chew more than I wanted too. Ibelieve my fix would be if i knew the torque for nut and the allen screw.

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  • rogerpala530 Mar 21, 2011

    Do not process my card you not no what you are talkig about.

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ScrewTorque A-Torque B-DiameterNo Dashes3 Dashes(SAE* Grade No. 2)(SAE Grade No. 5)lb-ft**N•m***lb-ftN•m1/4-20 UNC3-54.1-6.86-88.1-10.81/4-28 UNF4-65.4-8.18-1010.8-13.65/16-18 UNC7-119.5-14.913-1717.6-23.05/16-24 UNF7-119.5-14.914-1919.0-25.83/8-16 UNC14-1819.0-24.426-3135.3-42.03/8-24 UNF15-1920.3-25.830-3540.7-47.57/16-14 UNC23-2831.2-38.044-4959.7-66.47/16-20 UNF23-2831.2-38.044-5459.7-73.2Here are some standard torque values which are quite adequate for your purpose. You will probably find the lower Torque A values tight enough for a lock nut, remember to apply a little lubricant to the treads to prevent corrosion binding.

Posted on Mar 21, 2011

  • Hans Pearson
    Hans Pearson Mar 21, 2011

    If what I see is what you got your side, it is utterly useless. Let me know and I will try send you a list that makes some sort of sense. Sorry about that.

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  • Master
  • 438 Answers

Roger Pala,

Instead of looking for the torque etc, look for Windex or WD40 and spray it on the nut and the bolt. Get rid of the dirt and then use the spanner or whatever. Else you may break the nut.

Posted on Mar 21, 2011

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1 Answer

Clutch adjustment


Slide the rubber cover off the cable adjuster. Then holding cable adjuster with 1/2 inch wrench, loosen the jam nut using a 9/16 inch wrench and back the jam nut away from the cable adjuster and then move the adjuster toward jam nut to introduce a large amount of free play at hand lever. THEN using a T-27 TORX driver, remove the five TORX screws with washers to remove clutch inspection cover (derby cover) and seal in the primary cover (unless it has a gasket as aftermarket or Screaming Eagle covers will have in which case remove the gasket). IF the screws are very tight use a spring loaded impact driver with the correct T-27 TORX bit and a suitable sized hammer to shock them loose OR heat them with a hot air gun (sometimes people also put loctite on the screw threads which then may need heat to break down this locking compound). THEN using an Allen key in, and to hold, the adjustment screw and a wrench on the locknut loosen the locknut and then turn the adjusting screw in or clockwise until resistance is felt (to take up all freeplay and lightly seat the adjuster to the clutch pushrod but no more) and then activate the clutch lever to ensure that the clutch release balls are seated in the ramps. THEN back off the adjusting screw one half to one full turn. THEN holding the Allen key and adjusting screw so neither can move anymore tighten the locknut to 72-120 in-lbs (8.1-13.6 Nm). THEN squeeze the clutch lever to maximum limit three times, to set the ball and ramp release mechanism. THEN replace the cover seal or gasket if it is very old, deteriorated or etc. and verify that the seal is fully seated in the groove of the cover and if there is a gasket make sure it is facing the correct way i.e. with the rubber sealing surface towards the primary cover and the triangulated screw hole to the top. THEN using the T-27 TORX driver, install the five TORX screws and washers to secure the clutch inspection cover in place and tighten the screws in a crosswise pattern to 84-108 in-lbs (9-12Nm). THEN move to the cable adjuster and turn the cable adjuster clockwise away from the jam nut until all of the slack is eliminated. THEN pull the clutch cable ferrule at the hand control end of the clutch cable at the hand control lever bracket away from the clutch hand lever bracket to check the free play. You need to obtain 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play between the end of the cable ferrule and the clutch hand lever bracket i.e. while you are pulling the cable away from the clutch lever mechanism bracket there should be a space or freeplay of 1/16 to 1/8 inch or in other words if you can pull the clutch cable away from the clutch lever bracket that much you have the correct lever freeplay, so turn the cable adjuster as necessary to get this amount of freeplay between the end of the clutch cable and the clutch lever bracket on the handlebars. After you have adjusted the cable so that you have this freeplay then hold the adjuster with a 1/2 inch wrench and using a 9/16 inch wrench, tighten jam nut against cable adjuster and then pull the rubber cable adjuster cover over the cable adjuster mechanism. THEN place the spring washer over the lower inside hole of the left footrest support with the concave side of the spring washer facing the support flange. THEN align the holes in the footrest with the threaded holes in the support and spring washer and install the bolt and Locknut and tighten the locknut to 96-192 in-lbs (11-22 Nm). These cable adjuster instructions are for stock HD clutch cables as aftermarket cables will be somewhat different to adjust BUT the idea will be the same.

Jul 06, 2014 | Harley Davidson FLHRI Road King...

1 Answer

How do i ajust the clutch ?


Slide the rubber cover off the cable adjuster. Then holding cable adjuster with 1/2 inch wrench, loosen the jam nut using a 9/16 inch wrench and back the jam nut away from the cable adjuster and then move the adjuster toward jam nut to introduce a large amount of free play at hand lever. THEN using a T-27 TORX driver, remove the five TORX screws with washers to remove clutch inspection cover (derby cover) and seal in the primary cover (unless it has a gasket as aftermarket or Screaming Eagle covers will have in which case remove the gasket). IF the screws are very tight use a spring loaded impact driver with the correct T-27 TORX bit and a suitable sized hammer to shock them loose OR heat them with a hot air gun (sometimes people also put loctite on the screw threads which then may need heat to break down this locking compound). THEN using an Allen key in, and to hold, the adjustment screw and a wrench on the locknut loosen the locknut and then turn the adjusting screw in or clockwise until resistance is felt (to take up all freeplay and lightly seat the adjuster to the clutch pushrod but no more) and then activate the clutch lever to ensure that the clutch release balls are seated in the ramps. THEN back off the adjusting screw one half to one full turn. THEN holding the Allen key and adjusting screw so neither can move anymore tighten the locknut to 72-120 in-lbs (8.1-13.6 Nm). THEN squeeze the clutch lever to maximum limit three times, to set the ball and ramp release mechanism. THEN replace the cover seal or gasket if it is very old, deteriorated or etc. and verify that the seal is fully seated in the groove of the cover and if there is a gasket make sure it is facing the correct way i.e. with the rubber sealing surface towards the primary cover and the triangulated screw hole to the top. THEN using the T-27 TORX driver, install the five TORX screws and washers to secure the clutch inspection cover in place and tighten the screws in a crosswise pattern to 84-108 in-lbs (9-12Nm). THEN move to the cable adjuster and turn the cable adjuster clockwise away from the jam nut until all of the slack is eliminated. THEN pull the clutch cable ferrule at the hand control end of the clutch cable at the hand control lever bracket away from the clutch hand lever bracket to check the free play. You need to obtain 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play between the end of the cable ferrule and the clutch hand lever bracket i.e. while you are pulling the cable away from the clutch lever mechanism bracket there should be a space or freeplay of 1/16 to 1/8 inch or in other words if you can pull the clutch cable away from the clutch lever bracket that much you have the correct lever freeplay, so turn the cable adjuster as necessary to get this amount of freeplay between the end of the clutch cable and the clutch lever bracket on the handlebars. After you have adjusted the cable so that you have this freeplay then hold the adjuster with a 1/2 inch wrench and using a 9/16 inch wrench, tighten jam nut against cable adjuster and then pull the rubber cable adjuster cover over the cable adjuster mechanism. THEN place the spring washer over the lower inside hole of the left footrest support with the concave side of the spring washer facing the support flange. THEN align the holes in the footrest with the threaded holes in the support and spring washer and install the bolt and Locknut and tighten the locknut to 96-192 in-lbs (11-22 Nm). These cable adjuster instructions are for stock HD clutch cables as aftermarket cables will be somewhat different to adjust BUT the idea will be the same.

Jun 20, 2014 | 2002 Harley Davidson FLHR - FLHRCI Road...

1 Answer

Clutch is slipping


The clutch friction plates may be worn out.

The clutch adjustment is likely way out in any case. You will need to go into the inspection (derby) cover and adjust the clutch and the cable adjustment will have to be done at the same time.



Slide the rubber cover off the cable adjuster. Then holding cable adjuster with a one half inch wrench, loosen the jam nut using a nine sixteenths inch wrench and back the jam nut away from the cable adjuster and then move the adjuster toward jam nut to introduce a large amount of free play at hand lever. THEN using a T27 TORX driver, remove the five TORX screws with washers to remove clutch inspection cover (derby cover) and seal in the primary cover (unless it has a gasket as aftermarket or Screaming Eagle covers will have in which case remove the gasket). IF the screws are very tight use a spring loaded impact driver with the correct T-27 TORX bit and a suitable sized hammer to shock them loose OR heat them with a hot air gun (sometimes people also put Loctite on the screw threads which then may need heat to break down this locking compound). THEN using an Allen key in, and to hold, the adjustment screw and a wrench on the locknut loosen the locknut and then turn the adjusting screw in or clockwise until resistance is felt (to take up all free play and lightly seat the adjuster to the clutch push rod but no more) and then activate the clutch lever to ensure that the clutch release balls are seated in the ramps. THEN back off the adjusting screw one half to one full turn. THEN holding the Allen key and adjusting screw so neither can move anymore tighten the locknut to 72-120 in-lbs (8.1-13.6 NM). THEN squeeze the clutch lever to maximum limit three times, to set the ball and ramp release mechanism. THEN replace the cover seal or gasket if it is very old, deteriorated or etc. and verify that the seal is fully seated in the groove of the cover and if there is a gasket make sure it is facing the correct way i.e. with the rubber sealing surface towards the primary cover and the triangulated screw hole to the top. THEN using the T-27 TORX driver, install the five TORX screws and washers to secure the clutch inspection cover in place and tighten the screws in a crosswise pattern to 84-108 in-lbs (9-12Nm). THEN move to the cable adjuster and turn the cable adjuster clockwise away from the jam nut until all of the slack is eliminated. THEN pull the clutch cable ferrule at the hand control end of the clutch cable at the hand control lever bracket away from the clutch hand lever bracket to check the free play. You need to obtain 1/16 to 1/8 inch free play between the end of the cable ferrule and the clutch hand lever bracket i.e. while you are pulling the cable away from the clutch lever mechanism bracket there should be a space or freeplay of 1/16 to 1/8 inch or in other words if you can pull the clutch cable away from the clutch lever bracket that much you have the correct lever free play, so turn the cable adjuster as necessary to get this amount of free play between the end of the clutch cable and the clutch lever bracket on the handlebars. After you have adjusted the cable so that you have this free play then hold the adjuster with a 1/2 inch wrench and using a 9/16 inch wrench, tighten jam nut against cable adjuster and then pull the rubber cable adjuster cover over the cable adjuster mechanism. THEN place the spring washer over the lower inside hole of the left footrest support with the concave side of the spring washer facing the support flange. These cable adjuster instructions are for stock HD clutch cables as aftermarket cables will be somewhat different to adjust BUT the idea will be the same.

May 25, 2014 | Harley Davidson FLSTC Heritage Softail...

2 Answers

How to adjust a clutch on a2005hd fatboy?


Take all the play off clutch lever using adjusting nuts under rubber boot on clutch cable remove derby cover on primary cover use allen wrench to hold push rod while loosing lock nut turn allen wrench clock wise on push rod until it just stops do not apply pressure you will bend push rod.then turn counter clock wise about half turn hold with allen wrench tighten lock nut . Adjust nuts on cable until; 1/8 inch play on clutch lever should be good to go .

Mar 23, 2011 | 2005 Harley Davidson FLSTF - FLSTFI Fat...

2 Answers

2005 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide Ultra Classic clutch adjustment ?


To adjust the clutch, first find the clutch cable adjuster. It should be somewhere along the downtube of the frame in front of the engine. Slide the rubber bellows cover either up or down to expose the adjuster. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster inwards shortening the cable as much as possible.

Remove the Derby cover from the primary cover. In the middle of the clutch assembly is an adjuster bolt and a lock nut. Loosen the lock nut and turn the adjust inwards until you feel a resistance. Don't not force the adjuster, go inwards until you feel the resistance of the throwout bearing on the other side. Try it a couple of times until you get the feel of it. Go inwards until you feel the resistance and then come back out 1/2 to 1 full turn. Lock the lock nut down and replace the derby cover.

Then go back to the cable aduster and and adjust the cable adjuster out until you have about an 1/8" freeplay at the lever. Lock that lock nut down and reposition the bellows cover.

Good Luck
Steve

Jul 21, 2010 | 2005 Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Thanks for helping, i would like to change the battery on my 2003 road king but do not know how. can you please tell me?


Rmove phillips screw holding down passenger pillon. Pull pillon back and up a little. Take 5/8" wrench and remove "nuts" now exposed. After removing pull seat up and back over studs. Battery is now exposed. Remove right saddle bag, right side cover, remove ECM fuse. Carefully remove 10mm(?) bolts holding battery cables on, before hand note and or label other connections if present. Lift battery up and out, replace with new, reverse steps.
Important note, battery is very tight fit, and must sit firmly in battery bos, and ALWAYS use a sealed battery. The cost $100+.
Hope this helps,

JP

Dec 12, 2009 | 2005 Harley Davidson FLHR - FLHRI Road...

1 Answer

Need to disassemble a Honda NXR Bros 125 clutch


you need to use a large air impact wrench

Sep 07, 2009 | 2004 Honda XR 125 L

1 Answer

How do you adjust the clutch. Mine doesn't completely disengage when I shift gears. Too much play in the clutch handle.


You need to adjust the clutch cable adjustment for the clutch handle, THEN adjust the clutch itself.

1.First go to the clutch cable. Halfway down the cable is a rubber boot. Pull the rubber boot up the cable, (Or down. Pull it. Do NOT push), until it clears the adjustment. (The adjustment is a hex shaped piece, that is made of two parts. It's called a Barrel)
Use a 9/16 inch open end wrench, and a 1/2 inch open end wrench. Loosen the lock nut until you have around 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch clearance, of slack in the handle.
(Where the clutch lever, touches the clutch lever mount on the handlebars)

2.Now open the derby cover.
(The round cover on the back of your primary cover. Not to insult your intelligence. This -> https://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=02649&store=&catId=&productId=p02649&leafCatId=&mmyId=
<-shows a custom primary inner, and outer cover. The derby cover is the round cover all the way to the right, on this custom primary cover. You can click on the photo to enlarge)

You will then see a single threaded stud, (Adjuster screw), in the middle of the clutch pressure plate.
This adjuster screw has a nut on it, to lock the screw from turning. (Jam nut)
Hold the stud end,(adjuster screw). from turning with a large flat tip screwdriver,
(May have changed to a small square end, that you use an open end wrench on), loosen the jam nut with an open end wrench.

Turn the adjuster screw in, until there is 1/8th inch slack of the clutch lever, to the clutch lever mount.
(The clutch lever mount is the part that attaches to the handlebars. The clutch lever is the part you squeeze in with your hand. The slack is the small space in-between the clutch lever, where it touches the clutch lever mount)

Now turn the adjuster screw out 1/2 turn. Tighten the jam nut. (Make sure you hold the adjuster screw in that place you set, as you tighten the jam nut. DON'T let the adjuster screw turn as you tighten the jam nut!)

3.Now tighten the lock nut, (Jam nut), on the adjustment barrel for the clutch cable. You should grease the threads of this adjustment barrel to prevent corrosion in the future. Pull the rubber boot back into place.

4.Replace the derby cover gasket as these will leak like a sieve. Replacing this gasket is cheap insurance. Install the derby cover, tighten the derby cover screws evenly. (Go to one screw, tighten until it touches. Then go to another screw, and do the same. After all three are touching, snug them down one turn at a time, going from screw to screw)

This is a thin cover. If you don't tighten the screws evenly, you can cause this thin cover to warp, and be the cause of a constant annoying oil drip.

Jul 13, 2009 | 2002 Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide

1 Answer

I would like to see exactly where you would adjust the clutch cable.demonstrate please.


Start at the clutch cable, loosen the locknut and screw the cable in so that there are no threads showing (till the adjuster touches the locknut.

You have to remove the derby cover (the big round cover with 5 screws on the outer primary) so the bike has to be sitting upright or the primary fluid will leak out.

Remove the derby cover, get an 11/16 (i think) socket and loosen the lock nut on the end of the clutch basket (use a hammer to tap the ratchet and loosen the nut).

Unsrew the nut a few turns and get an allen wrench (I forget what size but find one that will fit in the end of the rod that you just loosened up the nut on)

Using the allen key turn the rod in untill the clutch just start to engage, stop there then turn the allen 1/2 a turn out then using the ratchet and socket tighten the lock nut on the end of the clutch basket (tap the ratchet with a hammer to tighten so that the rod you just adjusted 1/2 a turn out does not move.

Now go back to the clutch cable and screw the cable back out so that you can see the clutch lever start to tighten up. Adjust the cable so that when you grab and pull the cable just before the lever you get a space just wide enough to slip a quarter into. So where the cable goes into the lever you want a little freeplay, the correct freeplay is 1/16 to 1/8, about the width of a quarter. Tighten the locknut on the clutch cable and put the derby cover back on.

Thats all there is to it, I hope this is clear enough, any questions just ask.

Here is the instructions from the manual:

1. Position motorcycle on a suitable lift, upright and level.
Point front wheel straight ahead.
2. Remove five TORX screws with captive washers to detach
clutch inspection cover from primary chaincase cover.
3. Remove and discard seal.
4. See Figure 1-20. Add free play to cable.
a. Slide rubber boot (1) off cable adjuster.
b. Holding cable adjuster (2) with 1/2 in. wrench, loosen
jam nut (3) using a 9/16 in. wrench.
c. Turn cable adjuster (2) until there is a large amount
of free play at clutch hand lever.
5. See Figure 1-21. Loosen jam nut (1) on clutch adjuster
screw (2). To take up all free play, turn screw inward
(clockwise) until lightly seated. Activate the clutch lever to
verify the balls are seated in the ramps.
6. Back out adjusting screw (counterclockwise) 1/2 to 1 full
turn.Tighten jamnut to 72-120 in-lbs (8.1-13.6 Nm), while
holding adjusting screw with an Allen wrench.
7. Squeeze clutch lever to maximum limit three times, to set
ball and ramp release mechanism.
8. Check free play.
a. Turn cable adjuster away from jam nut until slack is
eliminated at hand lever.
b. See Figure 1-22. Pull clutch cable ferrule (2) away
from clutch lever bracket (3) to check free play. Turn
cable adjuster as necessary to obtain 1/16-1/8
in. (1.6-3.2 mm) free play between end of cable ferrule
and clutch lever bracket.
9. Hold adjuster with 1/2 in. wrench. Using 9/16 in. wrench,
tighten jam nut against cable adjuster. Cover cable
adjuster mechanism with rubber boot.

10. Install clutch inspection cover and new seal as follows:
a. Thoroughly wipe all lubricant from cover mounting
surface and groove in chaincase.
b. Position new seal (1) in groove in primary chaincase
cover and press each of the nubs on seal into the
groove. The nubs will retain seal in position.
c. Insert screw (with captive washer) through clutch
inspection cover and carefully thread it into the top
cover screw hole.
d. Start the remaining four screws (with captive
washers).
e. Alternately tighten screws to 84-108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2
Nm) following torque sequence shown in Figure 1-23.

Jun 10, 2009 | 2008 Harley Davidson FLHRC Road King...

1 Answer

Remove compensating sprocket direction of nut and remove clutch basket for 2001 road king need to put on new drive belt help


The compensating sprocket has regular threads and will loosen left and tight right. The clutch nut has reverse threads and loosens to the right ..... I've done this procedure several times and if u have any other questions, dont hesitate to ask - good luck

Mar 18, 2009 | 2001 Harley Davidson FLHR - FLHRCI Road...

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