Question about Harley Davidson FLHR - FLHRCI Road king Motorcycles

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2nd gear started not ingaging at times downshfts no prob checked main clutch adj 1/2 turn off perfect found gear oil like 90 weight in primary had service down at 10,000 at hd someone put gear oil indid it at about 13,000 after that but went away now at 14,956 got reg not shifting into 2nd but if you hit a little harder goes right in drained the gear oil filled with syn 3 havent put any miles on it yet but semmed to do a little better. could the gear oil dameged the clutch ,no raking ever

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The thick oil has probably not harmed anything. It will make it harder to shift because it gets into the clutch pack and acts like a hydraulic fluid in a torque converter. I'm betting that now that you've changed the oil to Syn3 that it'll shift better. Just make sure you don't overfill the primary. With the bike standing straight up, remove the derby cover. The oil level should be no higher than the lowest point on the clutch spring. If you look at the clutch assembly, you'll see that there is an aluminum ring around the outside of the clutch with a darker colored disc in the center. The dark disc is the clutch spring. Fill the primary just up to the lowest point on the dark disc just over the bright ring.

If this does not improve the shifting into second gear, have the dealership adjust the shifter pawl adjustment. It takes some special tools to get to the adjustment.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Mar 19, 2011

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1 Answer

Can only select 1st neutral an 2nd gear


Hi Meihana and the usual suspects are:
1. Clutch dragging slightly.
2. Primary chaincase overfilled with lubricant.
3. Corners wore off shifter clutch dogs.
4. Shifter return spring bent or broken.
5. Bent shifter rod.
6. Shift lever is loose on the shifter shaft.
7. Shifter forks sprung.
8. Shifter pawl needs adjusting.
9. Heel/toe shifter coming in contact with the floorboard.
10. Transmission oil too heavy.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
http://pnwriders.com/threads/r1-wont-shift-past-2nd-gear.169723
Can shift above 2nd gear
Wont shift past 2nd gear
Shifting stuck won go past 2nd gear

Apr 06, 2016 | Motorcycles

3 Answers

What type of fluid in 1995 Kia sephia standard transmission


I personally run 80-90 gear oil but some manufacturers recommend 30 grade for their boxes ( straight mineral oil) best check it out at a service dealer centre.

Apr 04, 2015 | 1995 Kia Sephia

1 Answer

08 yam. raider starts and idles perfectly but stalls out when I put it in gear before I let out the clutch


Hi Neil, and the usual suspects are:
1. Clutch controls improperly adjusted.
2. Oil level too high in primary chaincase.
3. Primary chain badly misaligned.
4. Clutch discs warped.
5. Insufficient clutch spring tension.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below, and for specific information or questions you can reach me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have nice day.
2008 Yamaha Motorcycle Service Repair Manuals

Nov 21, 2011 | 2008 Yamaha Raider

1 Answer

My bike is in neutral, i used to be able to hold in the clutch and step lightly to put into 1st. If i try that now, the gear grinds. I have to stomp into 1st. After riding, down shifting into 1st there...


This could be caused by a couple of things. One is that usually when you first start the ride for the day, the oil in the transmission is cold and thick. This makes the gears on the mainshaft and the countershaft turn with those shafts. When you try to shift into gear, the drive dog is not turning and it's trying to shift into a gear that is turning and doesn't want to stop due to the thick oil. You can avoid this by pulling the clutch in and holding it while the bike warms up.

The other problem could be that the clutch needs to be adjusted or you've go too much oil in the primary. Adjust the clutch as the manual says to adjust it. Make sure you don't have too much oil in the primary. If the oil level is too high, oil gets between the clutch drive plates when the clutch is disengaged. Then, the oil between the plates acts like the transmission fluid in the torque converter of an automatic transmission.

Loosen the clutch cable where it goes into the primary cover so that the maximum possible amount of slack is achieved. Remove the cover from the clutch, remove the spring, and the locknut. Turn the adjuster screw counterclockwise until it stops. Turn it back clockwise 1/4 turn. Insert the locknut, the spring and the plate. Screw the cable adjuster out until you have just a little freeplay. Work the clutch lever a couple of times and readjust the cable so that you've got 1/16" to 1/8" freeplay at the lever.

Good Luck
Steve

Sep 09, 2010 | 2000 Harley Davidson XL Sportster 883

1 Answer

I have a kenmore 91310100 it does everything except spin, when it hits the spin it makes a loud racket I looked under it and watched the brake is locking and unlocking and is starting to eat the drive...


First, see the Sears parts site for your washer.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.91310100

Next, see the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for top load, direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

I'd pull the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission and check the clutch.first.

See the following.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Possibilities are:

1. Neutral Drain Assembly Main Spin Gear destroyed,

2. Agitate Cams / Springs weak or damaged.

The best (and messiest ) solution is to pull the transmission and drive assembly and check the clutch and brake assembly's.

If they look OK, I'd pull the cover off the transmission and check the internal plastic pieces.

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside, remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission. Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams, gears etc.

Fortunately, these machines are relatively easy to fix and if any of the parts in the transmission are damaged, most are relatively inexpensive.

Following is the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial version washers although the consumer models use the same parts.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


Here is another Whirlpool PDF on how their transmissions work.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

As an aside, when ours had a couple of major problems (grinding when spinning and no agitate unless the lid was raised and lowered a couple of times) we found that replacing the agitate cams and Neutral Drain Assembly including some 80-90 weight gear oil cost less than $30 vs. $170 for a new transmission.
.

Feb 01, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Model 2485-2300 Top Load Washer I have to


First, see the Sears Parts site for washer model 110.24852300 which I assume is your washer.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.24852300

Whirlpool / Kenmore top load direct drive washers use a clutch to start the Spin Tube which turns the tub.

They also use a Neutral Drain Assembly in the transmission which allows the washer to drain most of the water out before starting the spin.

Two possibilities:

First, See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission in order to check the clutch.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.24852300

You don't have to remove the drum.

Check the clutch for wear as well as the springs. If the clutch is worn or the springs are broken, Sears has a "rebuild kit" for the clutch.

If the clutch is OK, the problem points to the Neutral Drain Assembly in the transmission.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

It also has a troubleshooting guide.

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

Manually turning the drum apparentlthrows the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

Nov 29, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Can't find where to fill the Gear Oil on a 1996 1200 Sportster. Accidently emptied the wrong oil...oops!


The primary cover has two opening's, the big one is the derby cover for adjusting the clutch and such, the smaller one at the top is where you put in 1 quart of 75-90 gear lube.

Apr 04, 2009 | 2005 Harley Davidson XL 1200 C Sportster...

1 Answer

Oil weight for primary and transmission on 2003 Road King


You could get away with it for awhile, but I would only use oil formulated for the primary chain case, and for that part of the machine, I stick with Harley brand, dont forget , u got clutch plates in there u dont want slipping. For the tranny you wanna use a good grade gear oil (75W-90, 75W-110,75W-140, SAE 190 & SAE 250) .... it'll better handle the torque requirements. I use Redline Gear Oil and shifting has improved noticeably

Mar 22, 2009 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLHR Road king

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