Question about 2002 Yamaha YZF-R6

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Hello, I fitted a new battery to my R6 2002, just cheching the charge figuers..Ignition off battery =13.2 v. Switch engin on, no lights 14.4v ish rev upto 5000, stays the same 14.4v.. turn all lights on, 14.2 v rev upto 5000 revs stays 14.2.. thier was one time that the volts dropped to 14.1 when the lights were on at 5000 revs.can you please tell me if this sounds ok.. many thanks Paul....( paul@spudsville.co.uk)

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If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Your charging system is working as it should.

Posted on Mar 19, 2011

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What is causing the battery to drain?


Running the car will drain the battery it if it's not charging ! An if your charging light is on it isn't charging ! Did you check power an grounds on the alternator ? There is a single heavier wire on the back of the alternator, this should have battery voltage ! You may want to take this to a ASE certified repair shop !
Functionality
With the ignition switch in the RUN position, voltage is applied through the warning indicator I circuit 904 (LG/RD) to the voltage regulator. This turns the regulator on, allowing current to flow from battery sense A circuit 35 (OG/LB) to the generator field coil. When the engine is started, the generator begins to generate alternating current (AC) which is internally converted to direct current (DC). This current is then supplied to the vehicle's electrical system through the output (B+) terminal of the generator.
Once the generator begins generating current, a voltage signal is taken from the generator stator and fed back to the regulator S circuit 4 (WH/BK). This voltage feedback signal (typically half the battery voltage) is used to turn off the warning indicator.
With the system functioning normally, the generator output current is determined by the voltage of the A circuit 35 (OG/LB). The A circuit 35 (OG/LB) voltage is compared to a set voltage internal to the regulator, and the regulator controls the generator field current to maintain the correct generator output.
The set voltage will vary with temperature and is typically higher in cold temperatures and lower in warm temperatures. This allows for better battery recharge in the winter and reduces the chance of overcharging in the summer.
Battery Positive Output (B+) Circuit 38 (BK/OG)
The generator output is supplied through the battery positive output (B+) terminal on the back of the generator to the battery and electrical system.
I Circuit 904 (LG/RD)
The I (ignition) circuit 904 (LG/RD) is used to turn on the voltage regulator. This circuit is powered up with the ignition switch in the RUN position. This circuit is also used to turn the charging system warning indicator on if there is a fault in the charging system operation.
A Circuit 35 (OG/LB)
The A (battery sense) circuit 35 (OG/LB) is used to sense battery voltage. This voltage is used by the regulator to determine generator output. This circuit is used to supply current to the generator field (rotor). The amount of current supplied to the rotor will determine generator output.
S Circuit 4 (WH/BK)
The S (stator) circuit 4 (WH/BK) is used to feed back a voltage signal from the generator to the regulator. This voltage is used by the regulator to turn off the charging system warning indicator. The S circuit is fed back externally on external mounted regulator generators.
Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical
  • Battery case, posts, hold-down clamp, cables and connections
  • Generator drive (serpentine) belt for condition and tension to make sure there is no slip between the belt and the pulley. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05 .
  • Battery charge
  • Generator pulley
  • Battery junction box (BJB)Mega Fuse
  • Battery junction box fuse:
    • 11 (20A)
  • Central junction box (CJB) fuse:
    • 30 (30A)
  • Circuitry
  • Charging system warning indicator
  • Cables
  1. Check the operation of the charging system warning indicator lamp (instrument cluster). Normal operation is as follows:
    • With the ignition switch OFF, the charging system warning indicator should be OFF.
    • With the ignition switch in RUN and the engine off, the charging system warning indicator light should be on.
    • With the engine running, the charging system warning indicator light should be off.
  1. Verify the battery condition. Refer to Section 414-01 .
Normal Charging System Voltages and Charging System Warning Indicator Operation Ignition Switch Position A Circuit 35 (OG/LB) S Circuit 4 (WH/BK) I Circuit 904 (LG/RD) Generator B+ Circuit 38 (BK/OG) Battery Engine to Battery Ground Charging System Warning Indicator Operation OFF 12 volts 0 volts 0 volts 12 volts 12 volts 0 volts Off RUN-engine off 12 volts 0 volts 1-3 volts 12 volts 12 volts 0 volts Illuminated RUN-engine running 13-
15 volts 1/2 battery voltage 13-
15 volts 13-
15 volts 13-
15 volts 0 volts Off
  1. If the customer concern is verified after the initial inspection, refer to the Symptom Chart to determine which tests to carry out.
    • The charging system warning indicator is on with the engine running (the system voltage does not increase)
    • Circuitry.
    • Voltage regulator.
    • Generator.
    • GO to Pinpoint Test B .
    Your whole problem is the alternator is not charging , a couple tests with a volt meter would tell you !

Aug 16, 2015 | 2001 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

Battery barely starting car, engine only rev to 2500 rpm


Loose or corroded battery cables, Loose fan belt not turning alternator fast enough, Bad alternator, check the battery with a Voltmeter, voltage with engine stopped. should be slightly over 12V Start engine and check again.. shoiuld be over 14V. this is if the alternator is putting out a charge. Chech the output at the alternator. the BATT connection. usually a larger red wire. should be 14V+ with engine running. Since the A/C works fine with the engine running.. I would have the battery checked.. sounds like bad battery.

Jun 02, 2014 | 2008 Kia Optima

1 Answer

I have a 1985 Kawasaki vulcan I put a new stator in rode a couple days now battery wont charge. Try to start and nothing barely a click from starter


Buy a "multimeter" (about $10) and switch it to DC volts.
Fully charge the battery.
Hook leads to the battery (red to positive, black to negative).
Start engine, and check meter.
You should be pulling about 13-14 volts DC.
If not, unplug output wires on the voltage regulator and hook the leads to it.
Start engine, and again, at idle you should be getting about 13-14 volts DC.
If not, unplug alternator (stator and rotor) and hook meter leads to wires, AND SWITCH TO AC VOLTS on the meter.
Start bike, and at idle you should be pulling 15-20 volts or more, with it rising (sometimes drastically) when you rev the engine.
This will tell you if the alternator's bad, or the regulator.
Also, you said you changed the stator, but sometimes the rotor becomes de-magnitized, especially if you've dropped it.

May 23, 2014 | Motorcycles

3 Answers

Draining Battery


Check the alternator. You can observe your interior dome light or the vehicle headlights as you rev the engine. If the light intensity changes with as the RPMs of the engine changes, then you have a faulty alternator.

Mar 29, 2014 | 2003 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

1 Answer

When i rev my car up the charging light comes on for a split seconde when my lights are on my turn signals dont work and some times the lights will go dim when that happens i got to charge battry or j


First charge your batery and re- install it in the car. Turn on the ignition and with a multin tester check for voltage at the battery. It should read between 12 and 13 Volts DC. Start the engine, accelerate up to 2500 rpm and measure voltage. It should read between 13.5 and 14.5 Volts DC.

If the voltage at the battery is lower with the engine turned off, your batery might be bad.
If the voltage with the engine running is not between 13.5 and 14.5 volts, your alternator is bad.

Nov 10, 2013 | 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

1 Answer

After a 2 hour ride out yesterday in daylight,i always turn my lights on to be seen when returned home switched engine off opened garage went to start bike again and completely dead has a data tool duo...


Might have 12.67 volts, but not enough amps to crank engine or light the lights properly. Try putting a charger on the battery, bring it to a full charge. Next, put a load tester on the battery to see if battery is weak or dead cell. If battery checks good, check the charging system. With engine running at idle, put volt meter on battery-read volts, then rev engine to high idle. Volts should climb higher than idle reading.

Apr 18, 2011 | Yamaha YZF Thunder ace 1000 R Motorcycles

1 Answer

Rs125x aircooled 2t single engine fitted in another frame, with ignition on the engine starts and runs fine, when clicked to second position,,,ign plus lights,,,,all works well including brake lamp, But...


I would say the ignition switch wiring is incorrect. The first possition should feed horn, brake light and ignition and position two will run the lights. So find the wire that feeds the horn and brakes then remove it from position two and connect it to position one leaving the lights on position two.
Hope that helps..

Mar 02, 2011 | Yamaha DT 125 X Motorcycles

1 Answer

Hello Citroen Picasso Diesel 8 year old, had it since new. Fault recently started. Engine starts OK. While manoeuvring forward and backwards in driveway sometimes get a warning beep and ignition light flas...


It could be the brushes in the control box on the back of the alternator, the vibration on tickover might be enough to bounce the short brush and cause the lights to come on. Try and find a garage or auto electrician who will change the control/brush unit for you.

Oct 25, 2009 | RTO Alternator/Battery Tester

2 Answers

My battery light comes on dim at idle and turns off when i rev the engine


This is indication of the battery being in good shape and almost fully charged. The light on the dashboard is an indication that your dynamo is producing sufficient current, which increases when you rev up and the vehicle is no longer drawing any charge from the battery. On idling, dynamo produces less current, thus to keep the electrical parts running it draws a small amount of charge from the battery thus lighting the indicator is very dim. Do not worry. Everything is OK with your cars engine & battery...........sodeep

Sep 25, 2009 | 1991 Honda Civic

1 Answer

Seems battery being drained


Q1. Engine will not start or is hard to start (Cranks OK) A1 -Ignition lock switch faulty -Ignition coil faulty -Power transistor faulty -Spark plugs faulty -Ignition wiring disconnected or broken -Spark plugs faulty Q2, Engine will not crank A2. Battery discharged Battery cables loose, corroded or worn out Transaxle range switch faulty (Vehicle with automatic transaxle only) Fusible link blown Starter motor faulty Ignition switch faulty Ignition lock switch faulty REMEDY Charge or replace battery Repair or replace cables Adjust or replace switch Replace fusible link Repair starter motor Replace ignition switch Replace ignition lock switch

May 20, 2008 | 2000 Hyundai Accent

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