Question about Yamaha YZ 250 F Motorcycles

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I have a oil leak all of a sudden right behind the small sprocket on the engine! its so hard for me to see where it might be coming from? do you have any ideas? i have been riding fairly hard the last couple of times out because im getting so much better? it looks like there is a automatic chain lubricator when running? lmao!!!!!!

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If the oil is coming from behind the sprocket,then your seal needs replacing.

Posted on Mar 19, 2011

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1 Answer

Where is the oil pump located and is it internal or external how hard is it to change


Very hard to change, it is at the bottom of the crankcase. Take of right side engine cover, you see chain, the small sprocket is for oil pump to turn. If you want to take off the pump, The clutch must go out, chain and pump sprocket and then, if you are brave, disassemble the pump inside (pipes and filter and take them out separately, pump body with effort last.

Why to change it, usually they are not a problem.
PS: the bottom sprocket is from oil pump

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May 11, 2014 | 1994 Honda VT 1100 C Shadow

1 Answer

I resently replaced my inner primary with a belt since then i still have problems oil leaking from my primary i shut down all my oilers but i still have a large access of oil leakage


Are you sure it's oil and not gear lube?

Sometimes the seal behind the transmission drive sprocket/pulley goes bad. (I had this problem myself)

Next up could be a seal behind the engine crankshaft sprocket/pulley.

Finally if you have an oil line from the oil pump to lube the primary chain (which you no longer have), remove/plug the line.

Jan 09, 2014 | Harley Davidson Motorcycles

1 Answer

Hoow to set up the timing belt


What do you mean by drive belt. If your talking about the serpentine belt, it should have an auto tensioner. Same goes for the timing belt. There is no adjustment. If the belt is loose then it needs to be replaced.
Replacing timing belt,Sienna 1998:
1.Disconnect battery (-) cable and plastic wiper washer cowl assembly
2.Remove spark plugs and put all wirings,cables out of the way
3.Drain coolant (cold) and remove upper hose
4.remove front right tire and wheel plastic fender apron
5.jack up engine under oil pan with rubber,towel or wood slightly
6.remove right engine support rod and its bracket
7.remove all drive belts.Examine condition;Label if re-using
8.remove plastic upper timing belt cover & gasket
9.remove crankshaft pulley bolt-use the ff. methods: a.air impact wrench or Toyota Special service tool-best b.chain wrench on pulley then breaker bar/socket on bolt-good c.open fly wheel cover,jam screwdriver on gear teeth then unbolt-tough d.breaker bar/socket on bolt, jam bar tip on floor, lower car then "start" engine -smart
10.remove pulley by hand or use carefully 2 prybars then remove plastic lower T.B.coverand gasket
11.reinstall bolt and turn engine clockwise to align timing marks:one on each camshaft sprocket and one on the crankshaft sprocket
12.remove T.B. tensioner spring-2 bolts loosen alternately then keep upright
13.remove crankshaft sprocket guard then the sprocket, then the belt.
14.Examine belt condition for damage and correct cause of damage if any
15.remove idler T.B.pulleys & check for smooth operation/contamination/leak
16.check all oil seals, water pump leaks,etc
17.Check T.B.tensioner spring for oil leak and tension by pressing push rod against hard object-there should be no movement or leak
18.Compress push rod using vise, align rod hole with outer hole then insert small nail, pin or wire to keep it there then reinstall along with other parts removed
19.Install T.B.carefully.No twist, stretch,prying ,oil, moisture, bending
20.Handturn engine 720 deg.clockwise, feel for resistance , and then see timing marks still re-align
21.Reinstall plastic covers and gaskets,drive belts.etc in reverse order 21.


Hope this helps.

Mar 02, 2011 | 1998 Toyota Sienna

1 Answer

I have a oil leak behind the front sprocket,there is a oil seal,do i drain oil to change it or is it high enough not to


If you lean the bike over to the right , no oil will come out while you change the seal. If any did come out it would be quite slow. This seal and bearing will have a pressurized oil feed

Aug 30, 2010 | 1987 Yamaha FZR 1000

1 Answer

Piamary leaking oil vary bad but its tray oil


I assume that your primary is leaking oil and by "tray oil", I think you mean "Grey oil". Oil in the primary that has been in there for about 5000 miles will be gray. It contains clutch debris and metal shavings from the primary chain and sprockets.

Now, the oil is coming from behind the inner primary cover, the inner will have to be pulled off meaning you'll have to take the engine sprocket, clutch assembly, and starter off. To get the starter off, you'll probably have to pull the exhaust system as well. That's a pretty good job.

But, if the oil is simply leaking out from the seam of the inner and outer primary or the derby cover, simply replace the gaskets there. If your outer primary is designed to use an O-ring on the derby cover, use the O-ring and a solid gasket as well. This works well.

Good Luck
Steve

Aug 18, 2010 | 2002 Harley Davidson FLHR - FLHRCI Road...

1 Answer

Need diagram to change stator on 99electra glide classic


I don't know of anywhere that you can get a diagram on how to change the stator in your ElectraGlide other than a factory service manual. But, all is not lost as it's really not that difficult if you have a few tools. An air wrench or you can trailer it to a tire store and give the guy a couple of dollars to take the compensator nut off, a primary locking bar or something to lock the primary from turning while you tightent the nuts, and a torque wrench capable of 150 foot pounds right hand and 60-80 left handed.

First drain the oil from the primary and disconnect the battery. Remove the left foot board. Remove the outer primary cover. Now remove the large compensator sprocket nut from the engine shaft. Take out the snap ring on the middle of the clutch assembly and remove the plate with the two ears on it. Remove the nut inside the clutch assembly. This nut has the LEFT HANDED THREADS on it. Don't forget. Remove the nut that holds the primary chain adjuster on. Now grab the compensator sprocket and the clutch assembly and lift the chain, sprocket, adjuster and clutch assembly out of the primary and lay on sheet of cardboard or something.

Go back to the engine sprocket and remove the sprocket shaft extension. Notice, there are some shims behind the sprocket shaft extension between it and the alternator rotor, do not lose them or mix them up with a shim that is going to come off later. Now, take two long quarter or five sixteenths bolts and stick them in the two holes on the rotor, not deep just about a quarter inch will do. Squeeze them together and pull the rotor off. Behind the rotor is a shim. It should be 0.090" thick, mark or remember that this shim goes there.

Now, you're down to the stator. There are four small screws that take a Torx wrench to remove and a plastic retainer with two small sheet metal screws holding the rotor and rotor plug in. Remove all these. and work the plug out of the case. Sometimes it's easier to simply cut the wires and push the plug out of the case from the inside.

Now, clean the hole for the plug and place the new stator ring on the engine sprocket shaft, plug wires coming off of the rear of the stator. I usually coat the plug with black RTV sealant to prevent leaks and work the plug into the hole from the inside of the case. Once you get it where it should be, put the small retainer back on using the two small sheet metal screws. Position the stator and install the new screws that came with it. If none came with it, put a drop or two of Locktite 242 blue on each screws and tighten them to 30-40 INCH pounds.

Put the 0.090" shim on, the rotor and the sprocket shaft extension with the other shims behind it on the engine shaft. Pick up the primary drive stuff with the engine sprocket in your right hand and the clutch assembly in your left. Hang the cluch assembly or the sprocket on the approtiate shaft and work the primary chain adjuster on the bolt that it goes on. Slide the sprocket and the clutch assembly to their seats on their respective shafts.

Now you will need a "locking bar" to go between the two sprockets, locking into the teeth of the engine sprocket and the clutch sprocket so that they cannot turn as you tighten everything up. Complete the assembly of the compensator sprocket and put two LINES of Locktite 271 red in the nut. Tighten the nut to 150-165 FOOT pounds of torque. On the mainshaft nut inside the clutch assembly, put one line of Loctite 271 red in the nut and tighten it to 60-80 FOOT pounds of torque LEFT-HANDED THREADS. Replace the two eared plate in the center of the clutch assembly and the snap ring. Replace the primary cover and refill the primary with lubricant. Fill just to the bottom of the spring in the clutch assembly. Do not overfill. Your clutch will drag making it impossible to find neutral with the engine running.

Good luck
steve

Aug 15, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Hi ive got a kawasaki zzr400d model and ive got an oil leak ,not checked if i can see wheres it coming from but does anyone know where it may be from, can it leak out of the oil filter , seems to be coming...


there are lots of places it could come from the most common will be oil filter oil radiator the small bottom one also check the oil lines from the small radiator to the engine wipe it clean with a cloth stand it over a sheet of clean newspaper to get an idea where its dripping from to and also another common place is under the sprocket cover there are a few places check there also

Jun 22, 2010 | 1992 kawasaki ZZR 400

2 Answers

Kawasaki kxf 250 is leaking oil from the back of the front sprocket how hard is it to fix problem


you're problemme is the counter shaft seal is leaking....this is the seal right behind the front sprocket....i tough there is also a inner o-ring on that model that you shall have to change...thank you for leaving good feedback.

Aug 18, 2009 | kawasaki 10 Million Candle Spotlight Green

1 Answer

96 Dodge stratus Oil leak


Hi my name is Allen!

The gasket you are referring too is behind the timing belt cover next to the engine, remove that cover and pop out the old seal behind the camshaft sprocket at the very top of the engine, lube it heavily and you can push it with your fingers, becareful not the bend it are it will still leak, you must get it all the way in or it will pop out again.

For further assistance contact me at FixYa!

Dec 19, 2008 | 2005 Dodge Stratus

1 Answer

Starting


The sprocket behind the flywheel has a roller clutch. Very simple but difficult to describe, maybe you could google it. Its a common clutch arrangement used on many starters. They can often fill up with **** from the oil and the small rollers and springs inside don't move freely. If this is the problem then it only needs cleaning out and I usually give the springs a little stretch. ie. another millimeter is plenty. Sometimes a spring may be broken. The only way to find out whats really wrong is to take it apart  but you will need the correct puller to remove the flywheel. Its basically impossible to do this job without the right tools. 

Dec 16, 2008 | 1991 kawasaki GPZ 500 S - GPX 500 R

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