I purchased a 2005 Speedmaster back in 2009 with less than 3K on the clock. I added another 2k by August that year. I began to notice a bouncing sensation from the front when breaking. On having the brakes checked I was told the discs had warped. The replacement was expensive. I have since covered approx 1500 miles & the bouning has returned. The dealer was non comital other then saying Triumph have'nt had any problems with their discs. I have been told an exactly the same fault by a friend who sold his Spedmaster & whithin months the new owner complained about warped discs. Is there something Triumph are keeping from us?

Recall Date:
NOV 18, 2009
Model Affected:
2009 Honda Accord
Summary:
HONDA IS RECALLING AFTERMARKET FULL NOSE MASKS, PART NUMBER 08P35-TA0-100 AND 08P35-TA6-100 MANUFACTURED BETWEEN AUGUST 9, 2007 THROUGH DECEMBER 11, 2007. THE ACCESSORY WAS DESIGNED SPECIFICALLY FOR MODEL YEAR 2008-2010 HONDA ACCORD 4-DOOR VEHICLES. IT IS POSSIBLE FOR THE NOSE MASK MATERIAL TO INTERFERE WITH PART OF THE HOOD LATCH. IF THE HOOD HAS NOT BEEN COMPLETELY CLOSED AND THE NOSE MASK INTERFERES WITH THE SECONDARY HOOD LATCH MECHANISM THE HOOD MAY POP OPEN WHILE THE VEHICLE BEING DRIVEN.
Consequences:
THIS MAY RESULT IN REDUCED DRIVER VISIBILITY THAT COULD INCREASE THE RISK OF A CRASH.
Remedy:
HONDA IS ASKING OWNERS TO PLEASE REMOVE THE NOSE MASK IMMEDIATELY AND CALL ANY AUTHORIZED HONDA DEALER TO MAKE AN APPOINTMENT TO RETURN THE NOSE MASK AND HAVE IT REPLACED FREE OF CHARGE. THE SAFETY RECALL BEGAN ON MARCH 2009. OWNERS MAY CONTACT HONDA CUSTOMER SERVICE AT 1-800-999-1009.

Recall Date:
AUG 04, 2011
Model Affected:
2009 Honda Accord
Summary:
HONDA IS RECALLING CERTAIN MODEL YEAR 2005-2010 ACCORD, 2007-2010 CR-V, AND 2005-2008 ELEMENT PASSENGER CARS MANUFACTURED FROM JULY 1, 2004, THROUGH SEPTEMBER 3, 2010. THE OUTER RACE OF THE SECONDARY SHAFT BEARING MAY BE BROKEN DURING CERTAIN DRIVING STYLES. A BROKEN OUTER RACE MAY CAUSE ABNORMAL NOISE, THE MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT TO TURN ON, AND ALLOW CONTACT BETWEEN THE TRANSMISSION IDLE GEAR AND AN ELECTRONIC SENSOR HOUSING WITHIN THE TRANSMISSION.
Consequences:
THIS COULD RESULT IN A SHORT CIRCUIT CAUSING THE ENGINE TO STALL. ADDITIONALLY, BROKEN PIECES OF THE OUTER RACE OR BALL BEARING FROM THE SECONDARY SHAFT MAY BECOME LODGED IN THE PARKING PAWL RESULTING IN THE VEHICLE ROLLING AFTER THE DRIVER HAS PLACED THE GEAR SELECTOR IN THE PARK POSITION. ENGINE STALL AND UNEXPECTED VEHICLE MOVEMENT INCREASES THE RISK OF A CRASH OR PERSONAL INJURY TO PERSONS WITHIN THE PATH OF A ROLLING VEHICLE

The rear seal of the engine could have started to leak but a loose oil pan or damaged oil filter could be a factor.

It varies with the type of service the car has had, but about 100000 Km would be a reasonable figure, maybe less. They would last 50000 Km I think before they began to deteriorate.
Struts can deteriorate so slowly then, you don't notice you are getting a rougher ride until you replace them.
The popular test is to bounce the corner of the car down as hard as you can, with maybe an assistant next to you, then it should rise and settle within 1 1/2 bounces.
The trouble is this test is so crude you can only detect a strut which is completely stuffed.

Providing the fluid is full, most likely problem is a bad internal seal (needs rebuild) If you want to "play" with it you can try adding lucas trans sealer. Sometimes it will expand a worn seal enough to get you by for some time. (I've seen it work as long as a year) If you leave it as it is, eventually you will burn the internal clutches enough for it to completely fail. The sealer will not work instantly but just take it easy on it for about a week and let it do its job.

No, thanks!

seems to be a leak in the inner shell of the water heater, the outer shell is holding the stagnent water

sounds like a clogged exhaust system , from the outside of the car does the rattle sound like it is coming from the convertor or muffler? if so run an exhaust system back pressure test via a oxygen sensor port or drop the exhaust and run car with open exhaust and see if the power comes back. doing this will likely set a dtc so be prepared to clear codes after test.

I agree with the shift solenoid being the problem.

if there is no sign of leakage, it's probably fine. sometimes there are air bubbles in the system and it takes a while to work them out. which causes the need to add more coolant. i would keep an eye on it just to make sure there are no leaks. after driving for awhile and parking, look on the ground to see if any coolant is there. good luck

I've got Hyundai Lantra 1.6 year 2000. It's take time to start when it's hot. When I start my car it revs at about 2k-3k rpm. It also does it when I come to a stop. When I come to a stop it will stay at a higher rpm than that of idle speed. It drives ok when on freeway but uses more petrol. I have changed the water & petrol pump but no luck