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BSA Rocket 3. she was runnin too lean, then we upped the mains and put the slide cut up to 3.5. Now she runs and idles well on choke, but when we touch the choke she dies fast. timings great, carbs are in pretty good shape, we constantly change the plugs, she's charging, we cant figure her out! Please help!

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On my old BSA Rocket I had an Amal carb. Cleaning and adjusting the idle jet cured that problem on it.

Posted on Mar 17, 2011

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I have a Tomos a35 Sprint and I put a 70cc cylinder jug on it, a techno circuit pipe and I have a new carb. I up jetted it to a #58 and it starts only when the choke is down, once I take the choke off it...


You need to adjust the idle 1st.Main jet #58 is just for wide open throttle. Start by turning air screw all the way in "gently" till it stops, and back it out 1 and a half turns. Back out idle screw until slide is closed " not touching slide" . Turn until just contacts slide plus 1 full turn in opening slide. Start it up with the choke on and turn the air screw slowly in or out and slowly move the choke off till you can get it to run with the choke off. Than adjust idle screw " the one that moves the slide up and down to set the RPM. If you cant get her to idle with the choke off and the carb is air tight on the intake manifold. Carb might be to big. If you can get her to idle but it runs ruff I will try to help you tune the carb further. Good luck.

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When choke is off wont idle


Hi, Anonymous and the usual suspects are:
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Riding mower briggs and stratton idles like you are putting foot on gas pedal and releasing over and over any ideas


sounds like carburator. probably to lean. Try varying degrees of choke and see if it will clean up.If so you are running to lean and might just need to adjust jet screw outward.If it gets worse with choke your to lean and adjust screw inward.

Oct 17, 2011 | Briggs & Stratton Garden

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The bike starts only with the choke on and stays runnin but when you let choke off the bike cuts out.Tried changing choke cable but still the same with a different one.


have you checked your idler screw on the side of the carb? if not it may be a blocked main jet, also check your air filter. try taking it out completely and running it. if it runs it may need replacing.

Jun 14, 2011 | 2000 kawasaki KMX 125

1 Answer

I have a Briggs and STatton 24 OHV intek motor on a craftsman lawn tractor. I got it on sale and when I got home it ran rough. The fuel line had collapsed or was plugged with some white powder. I took off...


It sounds like the fuel mixture is running very Lean..There are usually two adjusting screw screws on the carburettor that control the mixture. A Larger one is for the Main Jet and a smaller one for the Idle Jet. There is also an adjusting screw on the throttle butterfly to control the idle speed.
To adjust setup, start with at least a half tank of fuel, and have engine at operating tempurature (That is warm but not overly Hot). As a starting point, loosen (anticlockwise) Main Jet screw about half a turn, to richen mixture,so that engine will run without choke. Run engine at full speed and adjust main jet for highest smooth speed without engine missing due to mixture being too lean or rich.
Allow engine to idle and the adjust Idle Jet Screw for smoothest idle. Idle Speed screw may have to be adjusted if idle speed is too high/low.
Sequence above may have to be repeated to get best running. If engine hesitates sometime when sudden load is applied but then picks up, try adjusting Main Jet by 1/8 to 1/4 turn richer until it handles the load without faltering.

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2 Answers

Mighty lite 26ss starts fine, but needs half choke for a long time. Runs for 10-15 mins. and seems to starve out. Acts like an air leak at carb or downstream. Any ideas?


I fixed one of these with the same problem yesterday. Theonly thing I've found wrong with this little saw is the carbs are terriblyadjusted from the factory and the mixture screws have a 'proprietary' head.they're a flat-topped cylinder with a notch in the side.

fortunately, there is a way to turn them. The insulation on a blue solderlesselectrical terminal will grip the outside of the mixture screws enough to movethem. you use the big end of the insulation you stick the wire into. doesn'tmatter what kind of terminal it is. splices work the best because theinsulation is long enough that you can grab on to it, but I just pulled theinsulation off a spade terminal and used pliers to turn it, as I didn't haveany splices.

I pulled both mixture screws out and cut a slot across the top with a smallfile so I can turn them with a flat head screwdriver. if you do this, only pullout one at a time, they need to go back in the respective seat they came fromor they won't seat properly.

I also took a file and cut an access notch in the air cleaner housing so Icould adjust the high mix while the trimmer was running. takes 10 seconds witha coarse round file, but a chainsaw file takes forever.

To set your mixtures, screw both mixture screws all the way in until theylightly seat. DON'T tighten them way down, just lightly seated.
now, look at where the notch is pointed and turn them out 1 1/4 turns. turningthem out (counterclockwise) makes the mixture richer. turning them in(clockwise) makes the mixture leaner.

now, screw the idle in a full turn so it idles very high (you'll turn this backout later, but this takes some of the frustration out of tuning the carb). You maywant to take the string head off, as it will 'run' at idle now.prime the trimmer (10 pushes if you haven't tried to startit earlier, 2-3 if you did. you can't over-prime, though, you're just removingair bubbles from the fuel pump)

put it on full choke, grab the throttle with your left hand and pull the recoiluntil it tries to start. if this takes 10+ pulls, turn the low speed jetout(richer, counterclockwise) 1/16 to 1/8 turn. you want to work in smallincrements, or you'll waste a bunch of time overshooting where you want to be.

once you get it to bump over full choke, back the choke off a bit. if you'requick you can usually do this while thetrimmer is trying to run fully choked. most likely you're still going to belean on the high mixture, so having the throttle pulled may kill the saw. if itseems like it's dying when the throttle is pulled, but not at idle, then you needto turn out the high speed mixture screw.Concentrate on getting the low speed jet set so it will idlewith the choke off and the throttle off first. Once you get it so it will idle unattended, you can startbacking the idle speed down. From there, you can adjust the low speed jet whilethe saw is idling. Start by turning it leaner in small 1/16 turn incrementsuntil the speed picks up. If this kills the saw before the idle picks up, youhad it a bit too lean to start. if you get the idle to pick up, richen up themixture 1/16 turn. You want to be just richer than where the speed picks up. Ifthe saw died before it picked up, richen it up 1/2 a turn and start it again. Leanit out as before until the speed picks up, then richen it up a bit. This may sound time consuming, but you can stick ascrewdriver on the idle screw and gently turn it in continuously, so itactually goes pretty quickly once you get the saw to idle.Now that you have it idling nicely, you can adjust the highspeed jet. Start by 'blipping' the throttle. If the trimmer bogs down, richenthe high mixture. Now, if you're WAY rich, it will behave similarly, but with thistrimmer, that's pretty unlikely if you're starting at 1 1/4 turns. One way youcan tell if you're way lean or way rich is with the choke. If it will run fullthrottle with the choke part way on or if it picks up faster with the choke partway on, you know it's too lean. The choke richens the mixture up to compensatefor the gas condensating in the throttle bore when the saw is cold. If thechoke kills it, you're too rich.if it will run, then you can adjust the high speed similarlyto the idle. A leaner mixture will have more power and spin a higher RPM to apoint, but it will also run MUCH hotter and an excessively lean mixture willseize the piston. So, you're going to want to err on the rich side. You'lldefinitely be able to hear the rpm change, a way rich mixture will be almost 1/2the speed of the proper mixture, and a too lean mixture will sound like thetrimmer is going to fly apart at the seams. Once you get the high mixture to the point that you can grabthe throttle and the saw will pick up to max speed in less than a second, thenyou're ready to cut something. You may need to adjust the mixture leaner for abit more power if it bogs down in normal grass trimming, or if it is running througheverything including big weeds without changing speed, you should probablyrichen it up. This is NOT a big trimmer, it SHOULD bog down a bit if you loadit up.A final note about this trimmer, I never could get it to acceleratesmoothly from idle to high speed. It lags for about 1/4 second just above idlethen it picks up as it should. It runs fine once it gets past that hesitation,you can vary the throttle to be delicate around things, ect, but if you let itidle, it does hesitate when you pull the throttle again.I was pretty surprised how well it ran once I tuned itthough, this one is my boss's and he's got a 3-blade cutting head on it that'sa lot heavier than the string head and it will spin it just fine. It will cutdown saplings to maybe 5/8".Good luck!

Jun 26, 2009 | Homelite Mighty Lite Lawn Trimmer

1 Answer

Chainsaw runs out of gas.


From your description, it sounds like your carb is running too lean. Make sure the spark arrestor screen is free of carbon build-up and the air filter is in place. Warm the saw up. With the saw at idle, adjust the Low adjustment screw to slightly enrich the mixture. If you turn it to run the fastest possible when idling, it is too lean. When the Low setting is right, you will be able to increase the RPM without it dying. If the High setting is way too lean, it may also die when you open up the throttle. If you run the saw too lean, it willl overheat and sieze.

Mar 29, 2009 | Echo Garden

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