Question about Yamaha YZF Thunder ace 1000 R Motorcycles

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Clutch drags from cold has had new plates and springs

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  • Dave Mar 14, 2011

    Hi,
    What year and model Yamaha? Do you know if it's a cable clutch or hydraulic?

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Is your oil too thick for the outside temperature?

Posted on Mar 14, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: clutch problems

Are you using synthetic oil or an oil with " Special " additives? Synthetics and additives can swell the cork on the fiber plates and cause the problem. Extremely dirty oil can cause the clutch to drag also. Check to be certain the clutch plates and other components were re-assembled in the proper secquence. The first and the last plate should be fiber. If the above has no merit in solving the problem, go to the dealer and have them adjust the clutch. Put the bike in gear when at idle, not while the engine is revving.

Posted on May 23, 2010

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HOW DO I CHANGE MY CLUTCH AND PLATES 2008 FLHTCU?


Clutch and plates replacement can be performed on the motorcycle without removing the clutch shell or hub.


FIRST remove the primary chaincase cover. THEN remove six metric bolts to release the clutch diaphragm spring retainer from the clutch hub by loosening each bolt gradually and in a star sequence around the Hub circumference and then remove the diaphragm spring retainer, the diaphragm spring and pressure plate from the clutch hub and after the pressure plate has been removed remove the 9 friction plates, the steel plates, the damper spring and the damper spring seat from the clutch hub. Clean and inspect as necessary and wash all parts except for friction plates (and any bearing if removed) in appropriate cleaning solvent and then blow parts dry with low pressure compressed air as high pressure compressed air is unnecessary and dangerous. CHECK the friction plates by blowing off all lubricant from them BUT DO NOT wipe them off with a rag if they are going to be reused. THEN measure the thickness of each plate with a dial caliper or micrometer and if any plate is less than 0.143 in. (3.62 mm) thick throw them all away and replace them with a complete new set. ALSO look for worn or damaged fiber surface material on all sides. If new friction plates will be installed soak them all in FORMULA+ TRANSMISSION AND PRIMARY CHAINCASE LUBRICANT (or whatever equivalent oil that you will be using in the primary after reassembly) for at least five minutes. THEN CHECK the steel plates for any grooving, bluish colouring (which indicates overheating/burning and which is usually accompanied with distortion/warping) and check for distortion by laying each plate on a machinist or other precision flat surface and try to insert a 0.006 inch (0.15 mm) feeler gauge between the plate and the precision surface. Do this in several places around the plate. If the feeler gauge slips under any plate or any plate is grooved, bluish or otherwise appears to be defective discard it and replace with a new plate. THEN rotate the clutch hub and shell to check for bearing smoothness and replace the bearing if it runs roughly, binds or has any end play. ALSO check the primary chain sprocket and the starter ring gear on the clutch shell at this time and replace the clutch shell if either the sprocket or ring gear are badly worn or damaged. ALSO check the slots that mate with the clutch plates on both the clutch shell and the hub and replace the shell or hub if any of the slots are worn or damaged (wear here can cause clutch hang-up on release). NOW check the diaphragm spring and diaphragm spring retainer for cracks or bent tabs and replace if any damage is evident.


After having soaked the friction plates as advised above first install the narrow friction plate on the clutch hub, engaging the tabs on this plate with the slots in the clutch shell then install the damper spring seat (sometimes called a judder spring) on the clutch hub so that it sits inboard of the previously installed narrow friction plate with the concave side out (facing away from damper spring

seat) (that will be with the narrow side facing into the clutch hub and the wider side facing out) THEN install a steel plate with the round edge (produced when the plate was stamped out from a larger piece of steel) outward and then install a regular friction plate onto the clutch hub and continue by installing the seven remaining sets of steel and fibre plates in the same manner, alternating between steel plates and friction plates so that no two steel are touching each other and so that no two fibre plates are touching each other and then when they are all in place install the pressure plate onto the clutch hub aligning holes in the plate with the threaded bosses on the hub. THEN install and seat the diaphragm spring into the recess of the pressure plate with the concave side inward and with the holes in the diaphragm spring retainer aligned with the threaded bosses on the clutch hub tabs on the spring retainer contact flats on the inboard side of the bosses install the six metric bolts to secure the diaphragm spring retainer to the clutch hub and alternately tighten the bolts to 90-110 in-lbs (10.2-12.4 Nm). THEN install the primary chaincase cover with a new gasket and torque the fasteners to 108-120 in-lbs (12.2-13.6 Nm) in a sequence top to bottom from the centre to the front and then top to bottom from the centre to the back of the cover and then reinstall the primary case drain plug and o-ring and torque it to 14-21 ft-lbs (19.0-28.5 Nm). THEN refill the primary chaincase with lubricant only up to the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring (if there is too much oil the clutch may drag). THEN adjust the clutch by turning the clutch adjustment screw in until it just resists and then with the cable slack somewhat removed operate the clutch lever a few times to set the clutch release balls in their ramps and then recheck the clutch release pushrod adjustment screw again so that it just resists tightening as it is screwed in and then back it out one half to one full turn and while holding it stationary tighten the adjuster screw lock nut. THEN the cable can be adjusted to provide one sixteenth to one eighth of an inch of freeplay at the clutch cable bracket or perch on the handlebars. THEN reinstall the clutch inspection (derby) cover with the five T-27 Torx screws and washers and alternatively in a cross pattern tighten the screws to 84- 108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm).

Jun 19, 2014 | 2006 Harley Davidson FLHRI Road King

1 Answer

Polo gti wont go into reverse/ if you turn the car off it goes in to rev. but if running it grates and wont go into rev


Needs a new clutch from the sound of it iam afraid ,other possibilities are a worn shaft inside the box or a cable linkage but i suspect a worn clutch thtas coming to the end of its life ,the clutch is dragging where the pressure plate has a weak spring .

Nov 03, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Clutch on my orion 250 dirt bike is rattleing and vibrating badly and the clutch seems to drag, how do i get the clutch basket off, do i need a puller?


Have you checked each individual clutch spring to see if broken?
To get clutch basket off: remove all springs, all friction plates. Make sure to leave all plates in original order. Then, with impact gun, remove large nut in center of
clutch basket. Should remove easily. No puller needed.

Dec 18, 2011 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

I have a 80 sportster and installed only new friction plates and still feels like it is not fully disengaging adjusted a quarter in, several times and still dragging


You probably have warped steel plates. When you change clutches you should always change both plates and springs. You could also have weak springs.

Sep 01, 2011 | Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster...

1 Answer

Clutch problems


Are you using synthetic oil or an oil with " Special " additives? Synthetics and additives can swell the cork on the fiber plates and cause the problem. Extremely dirty oil can cause the clutch to drag also. Check to be certain the clutch plates and other components were re-assembled in the proper secquence. The first and the last plate should be fiber. If the above has no merit in solving the problem, go to the dealer and have them adjust the clutch. Put the bike in gear when at idle, not while the engine is revving.

May 23, 2010 | 2001 Yamaha YZ 426 F

1 Answer

My clutch is slipping when you hammer on the throttle


If your oil has a burnt smell you may have damaged clutch plates(overheated from doing burn outs) Check rear wheel well for burnt tire rubber. Some times people put aftermarket clutch kits( barnett ,ebc, etc.) When they do they often put in the heavy duty clutch springs also. Unfortunately the after market springs are usually junk and go out of tolerance in a very short period of time. Take the cover off and inspect the plates for scoring and measure the spring height for all the springs (dealer can give you the spring height tolerance.)Drag racers do not race with slipping clutch's and neither should you.

Apr 25, 2010 | 2006 kawasaki ZX-14

1 Answer

Yamaha 1998 wr400 dirtbike clutch dragging.


What oil are you runing I like to run a Rotellat 15W-40

Jul 12, 2009 | Yamaha WR 400 F Motorcycles

2 Answers

Clutch dragging on ktm 450 2008


there should be an adjustment on the clutch handle or cable.

Jul 05, 2009 | 2008 KTM 450 EXC-R

2 Answers

Clutch slips


Old fluid or improper type. Doesn't the Sporty use the SportTrans fluid in the year? Other than that, maybe time for new clutch plates. Or the clutch spring may have lost it's spring.

Jun 05, 2009 | 1993 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883

1 Answer

Gearbox spinning,with clutch depressed,gearbox crunching.


needs a new clutch ,pressure plate dragging caused by worn springs

Dec 30, 2008 | 2005 Renault 181

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