Question about Yamaha V-Max Motorcycles

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I have a 2009 Vmax with major issues at WOT. When I hammer my Vmax it accelerates hard to 6000rpm and then it stumbles horribly, and will not make it to redline!! Starts fine. Runs good up until that point. I am wandering if it could be a bad cylinder coil or the regulator rectifier? I would like to get some input before it gets expensive which is probably what is going to happen anyway!! Thanks, Burt

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  • 191 Answers

Clogged main jets in the carbs. Does not sound like electrical to me.

Posted on Aug 05, 2017


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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: coil pack keeps going bad,

Your problem sounds like an intermittent short in the power feed to the coil pack from the EEC module

Posted on Nov 03, 2008

  • 141 Answers

SOURCE: bad stumble on acceleration pops through t- body.

Sounds like the fuel pressure regulator. Could also be that the timing jumped. But I'm leaning towards the pressure regulator. Hope that I could help. Best wishes.

Posted on Jan 17, 2009

  • 359 Answers

SOURCE: No power accelerating or going up a hill


Posted on Feb 03, 2009

  • 867 Answers

SOURCE: 1988 Honda Shadow Poor Acceleration

you must rejet the carbs to work with aftermarket pipes, which if louder you need bigger jets to deliver more fuel, also, hammering affect under load is usually faulty plugs, which may have carbonized from running to lean

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: Faulty regulator rectifier- can't start the bike

I have a '07 C90T.
I have just replaced my stator. I replaced the reg/rectifier earlier this year. I replaced the battery one year ago in October.

I firmly believe what started the problem. Two guys that I told I didn't need help, but they pressured me to let them help. They hooked a battery backwards to my bike. A lot of people believe that's what shortened the life of the rectifier and stator.

But keep this in mind. The connections for the regulator/rectifier are not waterproof. I had done a lot of rainy riding and I first found a burnt connector on the discharge side of the reg/rect. My mechanic told me I needed to replace the reg/rect so I did but I soldered the wires and made them waterproof. I didn't do this on the stator side of the reg/rect and a few months later, when the bike quit charging again, I found that connector burnt, so I cut it out and soldered and waterproofed it.

Two days after we got back from a 700 mile round trip to Red River, NM, my bike quit charging again. This time though, I have a voltage meter on the bike, so I was aware of the problem before the bike could strand me someplace. Get one of those btw.
When I checked the old stator after I replaced it, I found the stator good but the pulse signal generator bad. It's required that you replace both btw. You have to, they are joined at the grommet.

Ok well, the battery cost $60 last year and I replaced it myself.
The reg/rect cost $140 through my mechanic and I replaced it myself.
Got the stator online for $173 shipped and they advertise a better stator that puts out 20% more power.
Not counting little things like solder, tape, heatshrink and such, I'm out a little less than $375 on my charging system.
I hope it's a done deal.
Again, some think the problems began when the battery was hooked up wrong, but I lean to believe the sub-standard Suzuki connections may have a hand in this.
Hope this helps. . . Joe

Posted on Sep 28, 2009

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