Question about 1995 Suzuki VS 1400 Intruder
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Any changes you make to the exhaust system will alter the sound the bike produces. The more you cut baffles,and open up the exhaust, the louder it will get. What you do alter to a greater extent,is the state of tune of the motorcycle. Any changes to exhaust or inlet plumbing will require a retune of the engine to suit the modifications. This can be subtle to dramatic. Opening up exhausts can often rob low end power where exhaust port scavaging is relient on some back pressure for maximum effect.
Best to work directly with an engine tuner to do the mods that are known you can get away with, or buy aftermarket prebuilt pipes that have a known previously tested state of tune. Nothing worse than doing something, that then costs money to put back the way it was on finding out it didnt work as well as was hoped.. Hope this has helped you steer your custom mods a little. I can say with certainty, that I have ventured to do what you are doing many times in the past, and it has always cost me more money in tuning and... and well more parts :) Cheers
Posted on Jan 20, 2009
One the left-hand side of the bike (facing forward), there is cover plate just ahead of the drive shaft. Remove that cover (mine has 8mm bolts). The bleeder valve is under this cover. Go to an auto parts store and get a "one man bleeder kit" or if you have some plastic tubing that will fit over the valve, you can use that and a clean jar. Follow the instructions on the bleeder kit, or if you're using the jar and tubing, fill the jar about a quarter of the way with break fluid (use DOT4, but never DOT5!). Take the cover off the master cylinder up at the handlebars, place the tube over the end of the bleed valve (after loosening it a turn or two. Place the other end of the tube down in the break fluid in the jar. Work the clutch lever until you stop getting bubbles in the jar. Be sure to keep the fluid level up in the reservoir. Tighten the bleeder valve, remove the tubing, top off the fluid and replace the covers.
Be careful not to get brake fluid on anything. It will eat paint and mess up other things.
Posted on Feb 13, 2009
No adjusting is possible.
Slip can be caused by several defaults:
- Wrong engine oil ( SAE 10w-40 API SE or SF only )
- Weak clutch springs ( free spring length : 34mm ( 1.34in ) MINIMUM
- Worn clutch disk 2(internal teeths ) ( wear limit 3.15mm ( 0.124in ) ) This is the last disk, against the clutch center
- Worn clutch disks 1 (internal teeths) ( wear limit 2.62mm ( 0.103in ) )
- Clutch plates ( thikcness between 1.55 and 1.65mm / 0.0610 and 0.0649 inches
- Damaged pressure plate ( cracks round the spring holes )
To check the clutch parts, the right engine cover must be removed.
Take attention while loosening the clutch spring bolts!
Drain engine oil, and set engine into first gear ( this locks the clutch for an easy loosening of the spring bolts )
Hope it helps
Posted on Apr 02, 2009
SOURCE: My bike is clutched
shift fork in trans is not engaging need to let someone open trans and sovle the issue those trans are not hard to fix but if you dont know how the shift fork needs to be to fuction seek pro help
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
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