Question about Suzuki GSX-R 1000 Motorcycles

6 Answers

While driving my gsxr 10000 (06) it cuts off after a few miles when the temperture gauge decreases to around 160-165 degrees.

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  • wink3rd Mar 13, 2011

    It does this cutting off while at high mph the temperture starts to decrease and cuts off when temperture decreases to around 160. It sits for a minute and starts back up.

  • wink3rd Mar 14, 2011

    If I put it on a diagnostic machine should it pickup the problem? It also will turn on and idle without showing any problem. could this be due to bad fuel?

  • wink3rd Mar 19, 2011

    It does work on idling continuously. No mis-firing. It seems that before it cuts off while riding on the highway the temperture starts to decrease to around 160 while driving at 80 to 90 mph then cuts off. I only have 6000 miles on the bike so I have not checked the timing. The alternator does produce voltage. I was very low on gas while sitting over the winter and I did put midgrade gas in it before I started out on my ride Maybe trash was in the tank. I didnt put any fuel stablizer over the win

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6 Answers

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  • Suzuki Master
  • 17,129 Answers

Please specify the fault in details, please confirm the following.
1. Does the engine works on idling continuously.
2. Does the engine have any mis-firing
3. How does the fault relate to low temperature.. are you living in cold climate.?
4.Mention if the fuel is good - good rating and firing intensity is good on the plugs.
5. Have you checked the timings.?
6. Check the HT coils and the voltage to the circuit as the engine stops, When it is stalled does the alternator produce voltage?
Hope you confirm these points.

Posted on Mar 16, 2011

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  • Suzuki Master
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Hello
This engines fuel system (digital electronic fuel injection) and ignition system are computer controlled and will surely store fault codes for the problem it is having, you need to have the Suzuki dealer scan the electronic engine control computer and see what is in the memory of the control module (computer). Without the scan this is nothing but an expensive guessing game on what the cause is. The system scan test is the VERY 1st step in diagnosing the problem.

Posted on Mar 15, 2011

  • yadayada
    yadayada Mar 15, 2011

    Suit yourself, but the fact remains the system must be scanned by a Suzuki scanner or its equivalent tool (Snap-on tools etc.). Why are people so hard headed about this?? I have seen $1000's spent still has the problem that would have showed for a $75.00 dealer diagnostic fee. Good Luck (PS, I have ridden zukes my whole adult life.)

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  • Master
  • 2,299 Answers

This is going to be a coil problem. Check the spark when it cuts off. I would say that you aren't going to have any spark.

Posted on Mar 14, 2011

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  • Master
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This may not be related. Start the engine and let it sit to see when the fan comes on. If the engine shuts off when the fan comes on you fan may have a short. Also listen or the fuel pump to see if you can hear it running when it shuts off. Hope this helps.

Posted on Mar 14, 2011

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  • Master
  • 1,509 Answers

Sounds likethe therostat failed. The temperture should come up to 180 degrees and stay there as it cools off because the stat is open, The computer map for mixture will richen up the mixture trying to warm the motor up being the engine has turly warmed up already the rich mixture just floods the motor and makers it spputter with too much fuel.. Make sure that the cooling system is full as an air pocket aruond the senser can do this too as can a bad senser. If you find the coolant low and don't see a leak the water pump will leak into the oil and a blown headgasket or cracked head will leak into the combustion chamber and as long as it's not happening very fast the exhaust may not even steam.

Posted on Mar 13, 2011

  • John P Schwantes Jr Mar 13, 2011

    Let me get this right. The bike runs Ok Your running it fully warmed up and everything is OK till you rev it high and it shuts down, It cools down enough for the temperture gauge to read less than 165-160 degrees and then it'll start back and run fine? Your bike has a check engine light it's red and in the middle of the dash does this light come on before it shuts down ( it's normal for it to be on if the key is on and the engines off and you can stall it with the clutch and it'll come on as soon as it stops turning) Does the light work? Some peaple think it's the oil light and it is but it's also the check engine light. Sounds like your overheating and at high load it's going into fail failsafe. So ride it enough so it's at normal temperture and be at home or somewhere that you don't mind it cooling down before you can restart it and don't race it but stall the motor as it idels with the clutch. The check engine light should come on and can you just pull in the clutch and start it back or do you have to turn the key off and back on. When it does quit the way it has been has it done this a number of times and did it do it any last riding season, or has it done it ever since you tried to run it hard? Or can you ride it easy and it'll do it after you've riden awhile? I know I ride mine hard sometime or other everytime I ride it. How high does the temp gauge get to as you ride it normal ( not gunning it) and does it go even higher when it shuts down? The raditor cap is hard to get off with the bike fully assembled but it can be done with the handlebars turned all the way to the right and if your hand and arm are skinny enough you can reach down though thier and get it off. I'm not talking about the recovery resavior but the raditor it's self. check with it cooled down as it'll burn you just like a car only worse as you can't seem to get your hand out of the way quick enough. It sould be full to overflowing. if not you've found your problem, the cap should keep the raditor perfectly full from the resivor. The hose between the cap and the resivoir can leak just a tiny bit. the head gasket or other cooling system leak can let either air or exhaust gas into the cooling system. Fill the raditor to briming full and start the engine, it'll be normal for a little to over flow as it's started and then as it runs the level will go down some, fill it back with it still running and it should stay about the same as it idels it should not bubble as if it does it's got a leak somewhere ( exhaust from the head) or ( vacume leak at the water pump sucking air and making an air pocket that will show up as bubbles at the cap.)

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  • Master
  • 643 Answers

Check the fan switch relay, and the thermostat. also look at the oil and the water pump.

Posted on Mar 13, 2011

  • Tre Elkins Mar 14, 2011

    check
    the Fuel filter on the fuel pump inside the fuel tank, you will need to
    remove the tank so run the fuel low as it will need to be inverted to
    get at the pump. Be very careful with the tank seal, you will need to
    reuse it unless you purchased a new one. Refill the tank with good quality fuel and test, secondly, did you pull the codes yet.


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