Question about kawasaki KLR 250 Motorcycles

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Hi , wondering the correct bleeding procedure for a klr 250 as i replaced the front master cylinder rubbers and still have a spongey lever ? i have tryed the most common ways but its still not successfull

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Check for any high point in the hose, can sometimes tilt the bike to give the hose fall back to the disc cylnder.
try bleeding the banjo bolt at the master cylnder, same as using the bleeder, just crack it open under pressure.
sometimes air can be bled back to the master cylnder, by squeezing 2 or 3 times and then letting the lever flick back out, you may see some bubbles come back into the resiviour, careful they can squirt.
New pads can sometimes be a bit spongy until bedded in, if you replaced them as well.

Posted on Mar 13, 2011


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Bleeding the brakes

Some vehicles have an odd way of bleeding them. My Chysler is one of them. Typically, you start from the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and complete one axle at a time, ending with the front wheel closest the master cylinder. On vehicles where the brake line is a tandem design, this is not the procedure. The brakes are bled diagonally beginning with the rear wheel closest the master cylinder and going diagonally to the front wheel, and then to the other rear wheel and then diagonally to the final front wheel, closest the master cylinder. Failure to follow the correct bleed protocol may leave some air in the lines, leading to a spongey pedal., depending on what type of brake line routing your vehicle has. Check your brake lines for leaks.

Mar 31, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My 87 mr2 has spongey brakes so I replaced the mastercylider but when I went to bleed the the rear there was no pressure and they wouldn't bleed (they did bleed the last time) help please!

did you bench bleed the master cylinder? if not, please bleed the master cylinder by cracking the brake lines at the reservior. see if you have fluid at the lines then.

Nov 04, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you bleed the brake system on 2003 suzki grand yitara 4x4 with abs brakes

The hydraulic brake system must be bled any time one of the brake lines is disconnected or air enters the system. There are two ways to bleed the system; pressure bleeding or manual bleeding. Both procedures will be given here, although pressure bleeding requires the use of some fairly expensive equipment (a pressure tank) and is seldom used. Both methods are equally effective.The correct bleeding sequence is: left front, right front, left rear, and right rear. On master cylinders equipped with a bleeder valve, bleed the master cylinder last.
  1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, remove the cover, and attach the pressure bleeding adapter.
  2. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
  3. Check the pressure bleeder reservoir for correct pressure 20-29 psi (137-206 kPa) and fluid level, then open the release valve.
  4. Fasten a bleeder hose to the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and submerge the free end of the hose in a transparent receptacle. The receptacle should contain enough brake fluid to cover the open end of the hose.
  5. Open the wheel cylinder or caliper bleeder nipple and allow the fluid to flow until all bubbles disappear and an uncontaminated flow exists.
  6. Close the nipple, remove the bleeder hose and repeat the procedure on the other wheel cylinders according to the sequence.

MANUAL BLEEDING(see Figures 1, 2 and 3)An alternative to the pressure method of bleeding requires two people to perform; one to depress the brake pedal and the other to open the bleeder nipples.
  1. Clean the top of the master cylinder, and then remove the cover and fill the reservoir with clean brake fluid.
  2. To prevent squirting fluid replace the cover.
  3. The spring-loaded plunger on the front of the proportioning valve must be depressed while bleeding. Wire or tape can be wrapped around the valve to hold the plunger in.
  4. Install a box end wrench on the left front bleeder screw.
  5. Attach a length of small diameter, clear vinyl tubing to the bleeder screw. Submerge the other end of the rubber tubing in a glass jar partially filled with clean brake fluid. Make sure the rubber tube fits on the bleeder screw snugly or you may be squirted with brake fluid when the bleeder screw is opened.
  6. Have your friend slowly depress the brake pedal. As this is done, open the bleeder screw half a turn and allow the fluid to run through the tube. Close the bleeder screw, then return the brake pedal to its fully released position.
  7. Repeat this procedure until no bubbles appear in the jar. Refill the master cylinder.
  8. Frequently check the master cylinder level during this procedure. If the reservoir runs dry, air will enter the system and the bleeding will have to be repeated.

Hope helps.

Sep 29, 2011 | 2000 Suzuki Grand Vitara

1 Answer

Spongey brakes on a 1994 ford e-250 cargo van after replacing the master cylinder

did you bench bleed master cylinder before putting it on van. if not, you have air in the lines. and will need to bleed the air out of the brake cylinders at the wheels. if it was bench bled to let air out first. and you did not loose any fluid from lines.then you would be ok !! good-day !!

Jul 28, 2011 | 1998 Ford Econoline

1 Answer

Cant get any damm presure back in the rear brake even after bleeding sposter

If you can't get any pressure on the rear brake, you have one of several possible problems. Either you have a brake fluid leak somewhere, your rear brake master cylinder is bad, or your bleeding procedure is not correct. Let's take the simple one first, your bleeding procedure. This is easy to get confused on but it must be done in an exact sequence. To bleed the brakes, first depress the brake lever and hold it down. Then, open the brake bleeder valve and allow the air and fluid to bleed out. Then, close the bleeder valve. Release the brake pedal and give the master cylinder time to refill though the small hole in the master cylinder reservoir. Repeat the procedure until you get a good firm pedal Do not allow the reservoir to run dry during this process. If you have a fluid leak, you should be able to see that. If the master cylinder is bad, it could be allowing the fluid to bypass the pressure cup inside of it. If this is the case, the master cylinder should be rebuilt. If this was done and it is not building pressure, the rubber pressure cup could have been installed backwards. It goes in with the cupped side facing the back of the master cylinder or the end where the brake line connects to the master cylinder.

Good Luck

Jun 21, 2011 | 1993 Harley Davidson XLH Sportster 883

1 Answer

Front brake lever has zero resistance, and does not work. fluid is full and pads r fine.HELP

I would suspect a faulty brake cylinder or air in the cylinder. Remove filler cap from cylinder on handlebar and quickly squeeze the handle, watching inside that cylinder for bubbles and fluid movement. If neither are present then you may have a bad master cylinder and need to replace it.If you have air, then you'll need to get a master cylinder bleeder kit and bleed the air out of the master cylinder. The bleeder kit will have specific instructions on exactly how to bleed master cylinder. Also - if, when you remove that cap, it looks like oil floating in the reservoir then somebody mixed brake fluids and wasted the o-rings and rubber in the front brake system - this is really bad and you'll need to replace all rubber seals and hoses for the front brake system as well as flush the system with the proper fluid.

Nov 26, 2010 | 1994 Honda CBR 900 RR Fireblade

2 Answers

HARLEY- 02 DYNA WIDE GLIDE front brake bleeding problem master rebuilt caliper also lever builds preasure but when bike is started and moved the lever bottoms out NO BRAKES

Starting the bike has effect on the front brakes and I doubt moving the bike does either. The problem sounds like you're using an improper procedure to bleed the brakes.

First, fill the front master cylinder reservoir with the proper type of brake fluid. Then, bleed the master cylinder. Use this EXACT procedure. Squeeze the lever and hold it. Then loosen the line from the front master cylinder and allow the pressure to bleed off. Release the brake lever. Repeat this procedure again. Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry during any part of this bleeding process.

Then move to the caliper bleeder valve. Squeeze and hold the brake lever, open the bleeder valve and bleed off the pressure, close the valve, release the lever and allow the master cylinder to refill. Repeat until you get a full firm brake lever. Top of the master cylinder. Wait a few minutes and test the brakes.

If you cannot get anything to work out, look in the very bottom of the master cylinder reservoir and you'll two holes. One is relatively large and the other is very small. Using a small drill bit or a strand of wire, make sure the small hole is open. I've seen trash plug this hole and the brakes not work correctly. DO NOT MIX DIFFERENT TYPES OF BRAKE FLUID. The correct brake fluid to use is printed on top of the reservior top.

Make sure you test the brakes before riding the bike, improper brake servicing can lead to serious injury or death.

Good Luck

Oct 23, 2010 | Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide...

1 Answer

I have rgv 250 n ive put some 6 pot tokico,s on with standard master cyl brakes good but feels not right but will a radial master cyl of a r6 o8 be mutch better has anybody done this feels like the wrong...

It's possible that the brake system is not thoroughly bled. It can take a lot of work to completely bleed a system after it's been disassembled. I would recommend re-bleeding, making sure to bleed at all the banjo bolts (for each banjo bolt, pump and hold the lever, crack the bolt open 1/4 turn, and then retorque while holding the lever down -- repeat for each banjo). You can also tap the calipers, lines, and master cylinder with a rubber mallet or screwdriver handle while bleeding. If you have access to a pressure bleeder, I would recommend using it, as this will do the job faster.

However, it's also possible your master cylinder is not a proper match for your calipers. Different master cylinders have various bore diameters and stroke lengths which affect feel and performance.

I'm sure it goes without saying that your brakes are a critical component of your bike. Making modifications you are unsure of can lead to life threatening failures. I would not recommend swapping brake components unless you are sure that the components you are installing are compatible with each other and your bike.

Sep 29, 2009 | 1992 Suzuki RGV 250 N

1 Answer

Suzuki atv brake rebuild no pressure

Cylinders, lines and calipers must be bled thoroughly and in order.
Start with the master cylinder.
Break the line loose at the cylinder and tighten it firmly so you can loosen it easily.
pump the lever/pedal several times,(don't worry about pressure yet). Hold the lever/pedal down.
break the line loose slightly, just enough to release the pressure. Re-tighten the line and release the lever.
Repeat this procedure several times. (4-6)
Repeat this procedure at the line just above the caliper.
Finally repeat this procedure at the bleed screw.
This takes a while but will insure that all the air is out of the lines. It dosen't take much air to ruin a great brake job.
Good Luck

Jun 16, 2009 | 1985 Suzuki Rg 250 Gamma

2 Answers


Try gravity bleeding. Open bleed nipple and wait for steady dripping. After closing nipple, the lever doesn't have pressure, the cylinder at the lever is defective. It's a go- no go thing. Either it works or it doesn't. good luck

May 29, 2009 | 2003 kawasaki KLR 250

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