Question about Suzuki RM-Z 250 Motorcycles

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Rear brake was fine but my front brake needed bleeding so i did that works fine so i thought i would do my rear brake as well did it but once i refilled it did the bleeding process brake just gone really soft like theres nothing there it does stop the tyre if you spin by hand but not if your riding the bike. took calipars of cleared them of mudd and **** still not made no difference

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Possible you ran out of fluid before refilling...or maybe didn't get bleeder closed tight when you released brake pedal, and some air got in the lines. I'd just bleed it again.

Posted on Mar 12, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Jul 20, 2011 | 1990 Honda GL 1500 SE Gold Wing

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Before storage last year everything was fine with my 2000 Goldwing. When taking the bike out of storage for the season everything seemed ok until my first ride. I discovered that the rear brake pedal has...


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Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid, leave the cap off, open bleeder on left front wheel cylinder till fluid begins to come out and close the bleeder. Go to the right front and bleed it, this is gravity bleeding and works fine without a helper to pump the pedal, when fluid starts to come out close bleeder. Now go to the right rear and bleed it the same way. Then lastly, the left rear. Bleed it and you should be done and with a good pedal. If you don't have good pedal, you'll need someone to pump and hold the brake down as you bleed each one from the closest to master cylinder around to the farthest from it in sequence. It's the only way to bleed brakes.

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I have a 1992 toyota sr5 pickup 4 wheel drive. I have changed the brake pads on the front and bleed the lines for air. Brakes went on fine and after bleeding the brakes I thought everything was ok. But,...


Some Toyotas need to be cross-bled. You should also check your bleeder valves to make sure you tightened them securely. Look for leaks at the master cylinder and possibly a rear wheel cylinder. Re-bleed the system.

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Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.

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2 Answers

Changed brake pads! Success.. Now I need to bleed the brakes.


To bleed you brake system, you will need brake fluid, a jar, and a couple feet of small hose that fits tightly on the bleeder screws. You should not need to remove the tires to access the bleeder screws, but you may need to raise the vehicle a bit to access them.

To bleed the system, start with the right rear wheel. Put a couple inches of brake fluid in the jar, attach the hose to the bleeder screw, put the hose in the jar of brake fluid, then open the bleeder screw. Once the bleeder screw is open, pump the brake several times. Next, close the bleeder screw. After you close the bleeder screw, remove the hose and jar, then fill the master cylinder with brake fluid.
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I hope this information helps you, and I wish you luck on your repair.

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