Question about 1998 Honda CBR 1100 XX Super blackbird
Hi, i have a problem with my cbr 1100 xx 98model with a rough running,spluttering in just highway speeds when im cruising,it starts easy warm or cold and runs fine on idle and runs nice up to 60 km and runs fine after 6or7000 rpm and up to rev limiter but difficult cruising 60 up to relatively high speeds in high gears. runs fine in low gears in town. the fuel consumption seems to be some high at cruising speed that indicates that is rich mixture but it runs better at cruising speed if I pull the choke a little that indicates lean mixture, I know this sounds funny but this is true so I was thinking the fuel is not properly mixed with the air, more like drops than mix with air maybe? sparkplugs look nice light brown. carbs and petcock have to be cleaned many times, new spark plugs, the ht leads look good. it changes the speed it splutters at to higher speed if I shim the needles higher but if they too high I can almost not take off bcoz too much fuel at small throttle opening and black smoke from the exhaust, my bike doesn't have needles with groves for a clip that's why I shim them instead. a bikemechanic friend he told he have some simelar problem on a yamaha tdm 850 before and first when he change the nozzle in the carb that the needle goes in to it was cured, the nozzles was oval worn he told and its a problem on downdraft carbs he thinks, but on the xx carbs the nozzle is not specified as sparepart and its pressed in to the carbbody, my nozzle looks a little bit oval on atleast 2 of the carbs if looking closely or maybe only imagination in my eyes, im not sure. did someone had a problem with the nozzles in the carbs before? I have cleaned the carbs and petcock many times, the air filter is some dirty but its worse without the filter so its for sure not bcoz of the filter, the bike has a two bros 4in1 exhaust and I have to try 140,145 and 150 main jets,but the problem is not with main jet circuit I think for sure. I had been very happy if someone could have a solution for this bcoz the bike is only irritating to use now and have been more or less the same all the time since I bought it. hope someone can help get my bird flying as it should do! thanks in advance! @
Hi, Turbod2 nice novella and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery should have 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a cursory reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage the battery is faulty and must be replaced, AGM batteries fail in this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
2. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
3. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled.
4. Spark plug cables in bad condition and leaking check for spark leakage in the dark
5. Spark plug gap too close or too wide.
6. Faulty ignition coil, module, and or sensor.
7. Loose, dirty, or corroded ignition module connector at crankcase.
8. Faulty CKP or CMP, MAP, ETS, ATS, TPS, O2 sensor.
9. Dirty air filter.
10. Intake air leak.
11. Water, dirt, or rust in the fuel system.
12. Carburetor contaminated, sticky float, plugged jets.
13. Carburetor vacuum diaphragm torn, cracked, not seated or installed improperly.
14. Multiple carburetors out of sync.
15. Fuel filter clogged.
16. Old or contaminated fuel.
17. Fuel tank vent system plugged or carb vent line closed off.
18. Gas cap diaphragm valve faulty.
19. Vacuum line from intake manifold to fuel valve is broken, cracked, pinched, or missing.
20. Carburetor controls misadjusted.
21. Incorrect valve timing.
22. Valve springs floating, weak, or broken.
23. Damaged intake or exhaust valve.
24. Incompatible performance parts.
25. Control module may be in "LIMP" mode
26. Check for engine trouble codes.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Carb Model Misfire here we go again
Misfire 1998 carb model CBR Forum Enthusiast forums for Honda CBR Owners
CBR1100XX 1998 HONDA SERVICE REPAIR MANUAL Download Manuals Technical $15
Honda 1998 CBR1100XX Owner Manual
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gregg_c0ec1df182c7330e
Posted on Feb 03, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The pilot jet controls the idle. Check your service manual for the jet location. Chances are the jet is plugged up by varnish. Count the number of turns as you turn the adjuster screw INWARD until it LIGHTLY seats. Now remove the adjuster screw. Clean the jet and then put the adjuster screw in and LIGHTLY seat it. Turn the adjuster out the same number of turns as originally counted. Don't seat the screw too tight because you can screw up the jet if you do. Remove the actual jet only if you must.
Please rate this answer. Thanks Shawn! Good descriptions :)
Posted on May 03, 2009
I bought a cbr 600 fy new back in 2000. After about 3 years I've always had the same problem in summer when sitting in traffic, ie. anything that put the temperature up to about half way causing the fan to cut in. I thought it was a carb problem. also thought it could be the spark plug caps(coils built in breaking down only when warm).
Anyway, mine had become so bad recently that it had become almost unrideable as it kept cutting out and spluttering, only at tickover and low revs. Anything over 3000rpm it was fine. I thought it might be an electrical problem so put a meter across the battery. It was only showing 11.5v when running at tickover. Rev it up to 2000rpm it was showing about 12.5v. It should at this rpm show more. If you have the same problem you can rule out the alternator by taking the plug of the rectifier/regulator( under the seat cowling, you can access it by removing the seat) and putting the the leads of the meter across the yellow wires. test all 3 wires. ie if you were to number them 1, 2, 3 then test form 1 to 2, 2 to 3 then 1 to 3. You should get somewhere in the region of 20v at tickover and 50v at 5000rpm. If this figure varies by a large amount between each wire ( alternator winding) then the alternator is the likely problem. But i reckon it will be your regulator/rectifier. They are not cheap at £141 from honda. You can get them from ebay but the guy at honda (mechanic)reckons they are inferior and he has had to repair bikes with boiled batteries and burnt wiring looms. This maybe nonsense but I took the safe route. Whatever one you do decide to get(if it is the rectifier/regulator at fault) then make sure it is the cast ally heat sink type not the original one which has the gubbins incased in rubber.I reckon its a design fault with the originals hence the updated replacement which disippates the heat better.
Going back to diagnosing the problem. I found mine by running the bike stationary until the fan cut in, make sure your lights are on then operate the front or rear brake light. by doing this you are loading the electrical curcuit. When I did this my bike cut out straight away or very nearly did so. Yours might not if your battery is very good. If you notice it running worse then I would bet that you have the same problem.
Hope this helps.
Posted on May 23, 2009
SOURCE: magna engine surges
The carbs may need to be cleaned. Try running seafoam in the tank first and see if that clears some of it up. The slow jets may be plugged up inside the carbs. If the snorkel had been removed from the airbox, it could cause siminlar problems as well. have you changed the spark plugs yet? be sure to check out the Honda Magna forums for more info:
Posted on Sep 08, 2009
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