My ignition fuse keeps popping on my 1100. I have the single ignition fuse panel wired directly to pos. and neg. is that wrong?

1. OK,GMC/GM are wired as such. White/Black wire, front left -[neg] White, front left +[pos]. Grey/Black wire, front rt -[neg], Grey wire, front rt +[pos]....Green/Black wire, left rear [neg], Green, left rear [pos]....Violet/,Black , Rt rear [neg],...Violet, Rt.rear [pos]........You will also have a Blue/Red wire that goes to antenna. ..A Blue wire for Power Remote....Red goes to IGNITION.....Yellow goes to Battery[for clock].....And finally a Black goes to Ground.......I hope that you have good luck and everything works out for you. `

besides checking EVERY fuse in both fuse boxes, check the multitude of relays because chances are some of them are toasted as well. And keep your fingers crossed you have not damaged a CM.
You can wiring diagrams out on the web.

your going to have to remove the inner door panel and liner to look for frayed wire(s) also may have to look at the wires running in the boot that runs between the door and frame.

Here's how it goes:
Speaker wires:
grey=right front pos.
grey/black=right front neg.
white=left front pos.
white/black=left front neg.
violet=right rear pos.
violet/black=right rear neg.
green=left rear pos.
green/black=left rear neg.
red=12 volt switched power source
yellow=12 volt constant power source (direct to battery)
black=chassis ground
orange/white=illumination (switched source,not to head light switch)
blue/white=amp turn on lead (to remote turn on lead of amp)
blue=auto antenna (switched power source)
brown=phone mute lead (to cell phone mute lead)
RCA connector leads:
grey lead:
red=right front
white=left front
black lead:
red=right rear/right rear subwoofer
white=left rear/left rear subwoofer
(connect to external amp)
red lead:
red=right aux input
white=left aux input
(connect to external unit)
green lead:
red=right dual zone output
white=left dual zone output
(connect to wireless head phones)
That should be all there is. on the yellow that goes direct to the battery you need to use an inline fuse holder with 30 amp fuse.

It is a pretty good bet that you fried a number of components, however there is more than one fuse block. Look under the dash. There is also a box that has relays and circuit breakers. Test these too.

Yes. You can do it several ways. If you have a metal boat use 2 wires pos/neg with a fuse if you want fulltime power. Or in a Fiberglass or wood boat, 1 wire from POS and fused and have the GRD wire to catch a grounded wire closer to the appliance.

If you have a fuse panel, you can use the panel for power. But if you want fulltime power you will need a fuse that does not shut off with the ignition. Or you may want it to only work when the ACC side of the switch is on.

You can also add a panel switch if you want to control it that way instead. You just need to watch that you are not energizing the whole fuse panel from the 1 hot terminal you are using. Stray voltage can cook parts that are suppose to be off and also cause Electrolysis.

Fuse MAIN - protects the following circuits:

• Charging System
• A/C
• BTN
• Cooling Fan
• Air Bag
• Fuse ABS
• Ignition Switch

Power Distribution

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/stereodetail/1981.html

above is link to wiring for 94 legacy , yet another source has a different layout , make sure the colors match your vehicle , 2 sources provided .

yellow/red = hot in on - fuse 17 -15amp
green = interior lights
blue/red = hot all times , fuse 25 - 10 amp
black = ground
yellow/blue = interior lights
black/green = power ant.
red/yellow = right fr neg
brown/white = left fr neg
white/red = left rear neg
blue/yellow = right rear neg
white/black = right fr pos
green - left fr pos
red/black = left rear pos
red/white = right rear pos

if its cutting off and right back on then check your ground and your power wire makes sure both are connected good and none of your fuse's are blown, either that or you got a wire hooked up backwards in the sub.. but my guess is that the sub is hooked up wrong... that sub should be hooked up in a series or in parallel,

ok if your running just one speaker, it should be hooked up like this and 2 speakers are a different way...

this is parallel :pos to pos , neg to neg, then one wire coming from pos on sub to pos on amp then neg on sub to neg on amp but bridge the amp on your amp should be 2 pos and 2 neg in two different channels take the pos off the sub into the pos on 1 channel and then the neg from sub to the neg on the other channel,

this is series : on the sub it will go pos to neg then the other neg and pos will go to the amp, but make sure the pos and neg r on different sides of the sub, dont hook them both to the same coil

if your need more help give me your email and ill send you a pic of how to do it...

You will bridge the amp, and if the subs are all 8 ohm subs, you can probably wire them all in parallel, if they are all 4 ohm subs, you would wire then in series.