Was told that my lower end is junk. Seams fine to me but not sure on how to check with out splitting the Case. Is there any little tips or tricks. The rod has alittle side to side play but not much. Could that be the problem. Thanks. 99 rm 125. Stock.

Switch off with the main power switch. Remove the stylus. Remove the rubber feet. They prise out gently with a fine tipped flat blade screwdriver. Undo the two screws beneath. It should now be possible to use your nails to split the clamshell case. Start at the end that was screwed together. Work the case open as if it were hinged at the IR emitter end.

Most dishwashers dispense the detergent via gravity and the sprayer arms spraying against the soap dispenser once the little door flips open during the wash cycle. Since it sounds like the soap door is opening I would look at the sprayer arms and make sure they are free of food particles or other debris that might be keeping them from rotating and spraying properly. Here are some instructions for performing this check.

Remove the lower dishrack from the unit. Reach into your dishwasher and spin the lower spray arm. Take note of whether or not the arm moves freely or if its movement is restricted. It should not be restricted in its path of motion. Now gently pull up on an end of the spray arm. The spray arm should be free to wobble up and down. Unscrew the arm retaining knob (some of these are left hand threads) and take the arm out for inspection and carefully examine the spray arm seams. If they have split or are damaged, the dishes may not receive the amount of water pressure required to fully clean the dishes or to rotate the arm properly. What’s more, if water is in fact spraying out of the spray arm from its seams, it is possible that it can cause your dishwasher to leak. Make sure there is no debris in any of the holes.



If your dishwasher has a spray tower, pull up on it as far as it will go and then let it fall back down. Again, this movement should not be restricted. It should be a fluid and smooth motion. Also, unscrew the spray tower and examine it for any debris or foreign objects. Remove any that you find.
Gain access to the upper spray arm by removing the upper dishrack. Perform the same tests for the upper spray arm as you just did for the lower spray arm. Keep in mind that the upper spray arm may not wobble as much as the lower spray arm.
On a final note, some dishwasher models have a water tube that meets up with the upper spray arm once the upper dishrack is pushed back. It is a good idea to check to make sure this tube is aligning properly with the upper spray arm and that this has not split or is damaged in any other way.

Does the spray arm spin if you push it with a finger? If not, the plastic bearing is in trouble--pull down on the plastic pin under the lower center of the arm which should release the arm. Check the spray holes for plugging and any split seams between the two halves. Check the bearing area for any stray debris. If it doesn't spin because little water comes out of the bearing area, then the likely problem is either a plugged screen in the bottom area under the lower spray arm tower, or a plugged port on the bottom deck under the pump impeller parts. You will have to disassemble the entire lower tower assembly down to the deck to service this area--make notes as you remove parts so that it goes back together properly. Soak the large screen in hot water and white vinegar solution (50:50) to remove the white hard-water deposits. Check the lower spray arm for hole plugging and split seams as well. Our Maytag washer suffered the same problems and by changing detergent brands seem to have no further events. Hope this helps!

Check to see if there is an oil-volume adjustment screw located near the lower part of the chain where it goes into the cover, but mounted in the main case. It might be underneath the case in about the same location. Turn it CCW somewhat, if found, and check for oiling by holding the bar tip running at speed near some cardboard. If properly oiled, it will throw off a thin line of oil after several moments. If there is no adjustment, then you will have to investigate the oil pump, lines, and filter/valve in the oil tank. Make sure to clean the small oil passages in the drive end of the bar. Hope this helps!

on the inlet manifold is a breather from the engine i think on this year so check for a split vacumn hose or a split breather pipe ,failing which it could be the thingy on the back end of the butterfly ,their is a sensor but iam pretty sure its a breather pipe or something stupid ,also pull the vac pipe out of the servo and just try pùtting a plug into pipe in case the servo diaphram has split

Check the drain hose connection at the sink drain for local blockage. If ok, you may have to tear down the lower spray arm assembly down to the deck (noting orientation and position as you remove parts). Look for clogged screens and clogged openings in the deck. You can use a vacuum hooked to 'blow' to make sure these openings are clear. Wash the screens in hot water, detergent, and white vinegar to remove water and food deposits. Make sure upper and lower spray arms have open spray holes and no split seams. Hope this gets you running again!

do you have a watersoftner if so may not be working properly if its ok then do you always have water sitting in bottom of tub area. try this fill sink with water on disposal side 1/2 the way open door to dishwasher remove the stopper turn on the disposal do you see water or movement in the tub of the dishwasher if so replumb so the drain does not come into the disposal and plug the disposal opening

Is water also standing in the bottom like it isn't getting pumped out? If so, probably the drain system is plugged and everything below the lower spray arm needs to disassembled to the deck--noting the position of each piece as they are removed. Look for food plugging holes in the deck and any obviously damaged parts. Clean the large screen in vinegar and hot water--let soak for a while to remove water and food deposits. Check the drain hose from end to end looking for kinks or other restrictions. Make sure the pump mechanism at the bottom turns freely. Check both spray arms for plugged spray holes or split seams. Reassemble in reverse order. Run a cycle without dishes to clean further--make sure the water drains out at the end. Listen for proper water movement while running. Open the door to inspect progress several times.

Here is a website where a manual for you outboard may be purchased.  Outboard Marine went out of buisness in 2000 and thus no parts of origial manufacture are support is available . Therir are secondary markets .    THe Lower case splits in half and their is a seal around the prop shiftm which is pressed in. The seal between the cases are cut o-rings which are placed and glued into place with gasket seal.
The water pump is located where the case splits a little bit higher. You must open the little port on the side and take out one of the screws to the connecting shift linkage to split the case. After splitting the case the drive shaft and water pickup tube(s) wil come out of the powwer head or the tubs may stick into the power head which is ok. Place the lower skag into a vice and remove the 4 or 5 screws to the water pump housing. Remove and replace impellor and impellor plate if available. If part(pieces) of the rubber impellor is missing flush out the tubes and the power head to remove them.   When reinstalling the lower unit use a flash light to make sure that the tubes return  to the proper place in the power head and the shift lever is resecured. If you need more assistance, just write back. I was an Outboard motor mechanic for five years about the time of your motor.  

It likely needs a cleaning. A PROFESSIONAL cleaning, not a lens disc.... There isa a slim chance ther laser is dead, but it's more likely just the cleaning. Rates vary, but my shop charges about $56 for PS2 cleanings (we actually clean inside the optical assembly and mechanisms and reallign eveything back to spec).