Rear wheel removal1989 Yamaha xv750 Virago. specifically how to remove axle once retaining and pinch are removed. Simply tap axle from nut side or pinch side, should axle come all the way out? Have tapped on both sides with wood block and hammer but hasn't budged.

CHECKING DRIVE BELT DEFLECTION
Check the belt deflection with the transmission in neutral, at the loosest spot in belt, with the motorcycle at room temperature, with the rear wheels either elevated or on the ground without rider or luggage.

Disconnect the negative battery cable. THEN check belt deflection in the middle of the belt and then rotate the rear wheels and measure the deflection again at several locations around the belt and then select the loosest measurement point and compare that with the proper specifications and then adjust the belt as required by removing the rear wheels, loosening the four pinch block bolts on each side, loosening the jam nuts on both adjustment screws, checking the axle alignment before adjusting belt tension, verifying that the axle housing is tight against the head of the adjustment screw and then using a scale or dial caliper measuring the distance from the face of the adapter plate to the front of the axle housing on both sides. The distance must be within .062 in. (1.6 mm) on each side. THEN turning the adjustment screws until the measurement is within specification. You will reduce or increase the belt deflection by turning the adjustment screw on each side in or out an equal number of turns and then verifying that firm contact is made with heads of the adjustment screws and checking the belt deflection and repeating these steps until belt deflection is within specifications. Then snugging the jam nut against the rear of each adapter plate and again checking the axle alignment measurement and tightening the jam nuts to 15-25 ft-lbs (20.3-34.0 Nm). THEN removing one pinch block bolt at a time and removing all residual threadlocking compound from the threaded hole in the pinch block and using compressed air, blowing out any debris. If a bolt is to be reused, removing all threadlocking compound using a wire brush or awire wheel, applying Loctite Medium Strength Threadlocker 243 (blue) to the threaded area, installing the bolt with a flat washer and tightening it until snug. THEN tightening all pinch block bolts in a crosswise pattern to 41-45 ft-lbs (55.6-61.0 Nm), rechecking belt deflection, rotating the rear tires a few rotations by hand and verifying that the belt does not contact either the battery tray or frame and if either is the case, adjusting the rear axle lateral alignment. THEN installing the rear wheels and tightening the lug nuts in a crosswise pattern to 90-100 ft-lbs (122.0-135.6) and any time a rear wheel is removed and installed, the lug nut torque must be checked within 500-1000 mi (805-1610 km). THEN re-connecting the battery negative (-) cable and tightening the screw to 60-70 in-lbs (6.8-7.9 Nm). ALSO always, after re-installing the seat, pulling upward on it to be sure it is properly and securely locked in position

To remove a 2008 Softail rear wheel FIRST block motorcycle underneath the frame so that theweight of the motorcycle is off of the rear wheel, remove saddlebags if equipped, remove the belt guard and the debris deflector from the rear fork, inspect the wheel bearing end play and service the bearings if and as necessary, label the wheel spacers for left or right locationand orientation i.e. fork side or wheel side, remove the rear brake caliper from the caliper mount and support it using an elastic cord or such,For the FXCW/C modelsthe nut retainer will remain in the axle nut and does not need to be removed and if it is removed it must be replaced. For all but FXCW/C remove e-clip, remove the rear axle nut, and for FXCW/C remove the rear axle nut, loosen both axle adjuster screws an equal number of turns to remove tension from drive belt, with a suitable drift or other tool tap the axle towards the right side and remove it, remove the spacers and the caliper mounting bracket, move the wheel forward and slip the belt off of the sprocket, raise the motorcycle to allow enough clearance for removal of the rear wheel and pull the wheel with the belt sprocket from the rear fork.

To install a 2008 Softail rear wheel FIRST apply a light coat of wheel bearing grease to the axle, to the bearing bores and to the bore of the inner sleeve, roll the wheel into place in the rear fork and slide the drive belt over the drive sprocket, position the left bearing spacer between the wheel and the fork, from the right side carefully insert the axle (with its washer for FXCW/C models) through the right rear fork, the short spacer, the rear caliper mounting bracket, the long spacer and into the bearing bore, continue sliding the axle through the wheel hub sleeve, the left side spacer and the left rear of the fork, install the washer, the axle nut, and the retainer, verify correct axle alignment and the check belt deflection, check the wheel bearing end play after tightening the axle nut to the specified torque because excessive end play can adversely affect stability and handling and insufficient end play can cause bearing seizure, tighten the axle nut to 95-105 ft-lbs (128.8-142.5 Nm), install the belt guard and the debris deflector, install the brake caliper and pads, install the saddlebags, if equipped, pump the brake pedal to move the pistons out until they contact both brake pads, verify the piston location against pads, verify the position of the brake pads against the brake disc, rotate the wheel to check for any interference(s) or misalignment(s) and test the brakes for proper operation.

Yes. Be careful! Only remove the wheel's central nut, NOT the outer ring of nuts yet. Remove the tyre valve slowly and with care to empty the inner tube. Remove the wheel by tapping the rear of the wheel as necessary - be careful to remove the axle key and keep it safely to one side. Remove the remaining wheel nuts split the wheel and remove the tube from the tyre and wheel. Check the wheel inner surfaces for rough spots and clean. Insert the new tube and making sure that nothing is pinched reassemble the wheel inflate the tyre to the recommended pressure in stages gently bounce the wheel once or twice to help the tyre to seat properly. Inflate to just above the recommended pressure and release surplus air. Offer the wheel up to the axle with the wheel and axle key slots exactly opposite each other. Insert the "key" in the slot and gently hammer it home.

Voila, you have done it!

Be careful! Only remove the wheel's central nut, NOT the outer ring of nuts yet. Remove the tyre valve slowly and with care to empty the inner tube. Remove the wheel by tapping the rear of the wheel as necessary - be careful to remove the axle key and keep it safely to one side. Remove the remaining wheel nuts split the wheel and remove the tube from the tyre and wheel. Check the wheel inner surfaces for rough spots and clean. Insert the new tube and making sure that nothing is pinched reassemble the wheel inflate the tyre to the recommended pressure in stages gently bounce the wheel once or twice to help the tyre to seat properly. Inflate to just above the recommended pressure and release surplus air. Offer the wheel up to the axle with the wheel and axle key slots exactly opposite each other. Insert the "key" in the slot and gently hammer it home.

Voila, you have done it!

The front wheel bearings on this car come as a sealed unit inside the wheel hub.
things you will need to replace them
-torque specs for your cars axle nut, hub retaining bolts, brake caliper mounting bracket bolts, and wheel lug nuts.
-a socket set
-a breaker bar
-a axle nut socket
-a c-clamp
-a jack
-two jack stands

To complete the job follow these steps
1) remove the hub cap/wheel center cap
2) remove the axle nut cap (use the tip of a small flat screwdriver to pry up one edge, pull it off)
3) remove the cotter pin from the end of the axle shaft
4) using a breaker bar style wrench (non-ratcheting socket wrench) with a helper pipe slid over the end to increase leverage use an axle nut socket to loosen the axle nut without removing it.(these are torqued pretty tight and can be stubborn, don't be afraid to use a generous amount of penetrating fluid).
5) once the nut is loose, loosen the wheel lug nuts
tip: doing steps 4 and 5 is made easier with the weight of the car on the ground to keep the wheel from spinning while you loosen the nuts.
6) jack up one corner of the car, and support it with a jack stand. lower the jack to rest the weight of the car on the jack stand, then lift the jack back up to contact the cars jacking point, without taking the weight off the jack stand. leave the jack in place as added support.
7) remove the wheel
8) remove the brake caliper from the hub (if you remove the caliper mounting bracket with the caliper still attached as a unit it's only two bolts to remove it together) hang it from the strut spring with some heavy wire or a metal clothes hanger being sure not to pinch or kink the brake line in the process.
9) remove the brake disc/rotor
10) locate the wheel speed sensor (a small electronic box located on the back side of the wheel hub) a small bolt secures it to the hub, remove the bolt and move the sensor to the side out of your way.
11) locate and remove the three hub retaining bolts (reachable from the rear of the hub)
12) remove the axle nut and use a jack stand to support the axle shaft
13) use a "soft blow" hammer (if possible) to tap on the back side at the outer edges of the hub working your way around in a circle so as to drive the hub out of its housing/steering knuckle evenly. As the hub comes out of the housing/steering knuckle the axle will want to slide with it, in turn pulling the axle out of the transmission. try not to let this happen. if necessary tap lightly on the end of the axle shaft to free it from the hub, once the hub comes loose remove it. this is where supporting the axle with a jack stand comes in handy. try not to allow the axle to scratch the hub mating surface.
14)clean the cavity that the hub came out of, remove the axle shaft support jack stand as you slide the new hub into place lining up the axle and the holes where the hub retaining bolts go (if you just shove it in, it can be impossible to turn it to line up the bolt holes) be sure that it is seated tightly against the steering knuckle, and that the axle is all the way into place. put the axle nut on but do not tighten it yet
14) replace the hub retaining bolts and torque to specs
15) replace the wheel speed sensor
16) replace the rotor/brake disc
17) replace the brake caliper and mounting bracket unit, this may require you to spread the brake pad pistons (this is easiest with a c-clamp slowly squeezing the piston open so as to not create too much pressure in the brake line or master cylinder). if a c-clamp is not available a large pair of channel lock pliers can do the job. once its in place, torque the caliper bracket mounting bolt to specs
18) raise the car off the jack stand, tighten the axle nut to snug and replace the wheel, remove the jack stand and lower the car to the ground.
19) torque the axle nut to specs
20) replace the axle shaft cotter pin and axle nut cap
21) torque the wheel lug nuts to specs
this should complete one side so switch your tools and equipment to the other side of the car and repeat the process. i hope this helps

Remove the saddlebag on the right (throttle or rear brake pedal) side of the bike.I recommend doing it now because the bike is more stable on the sidestand; you will have to exercise considerable caution once it's on a lift, or the rear tire is otherwise elevated. There are two different length screws (three shorter, one long), a spacer, a variety of stand-offs, and a variety of rubber isolators and washers. Remove the parts (two mounts in the floor, two in the back toward the frame) but KEEP TRACK of where the parts come from, and in what order you remove them. (You're gonna hear this a lot, but replacing a part lost or misplaced prior to reassembly, or having to dismantle and reassemble the bike because things don't fit right is a LOT more aggravating).

The rear caliper and brake disk are now exposed. Remove the two hex head bolts holding the caliper to the caliper arm, lift the caliper off the disk, and gently lay the caliper outside the arm. If you've already changed the hoses to the stainless-steel reinforced type, you needn't be too careful; if you're using the hoses the bike came with, take exceptional care not to nick or cut the hose. Examine the axle on that side of the bike, CAREFULLY AND COMPLETELY noting the location of spacers and washers; when it's reassembled, you'll have to duplicate what you're looking at right now.

Prior to lifting the bike, loosen (but do not remove) the self-locking nut on the opposite side of the wheel (on the outside of the final drive unit) and the pinch nut at the end of the swingarm on the caliper side. Now, lift the bike, making sure the rear wheel is suspended and unobstructed to both the right and rear. Remove the nut from the side of the final drive and extract the axle shaft. It doesn't want to move? You're left with two choices - grasp the end of the axle shaft outside the swingarm with a pair of Channelocks or some other toothed, clamping device, and twist until it loosens and comes out - OR - remove the other saddlebag and use a 3/8 extension or extensions to tap the axleshaft through. I do not recommend the Channelocks - the scoring of the axleshaft is permanent and UGLY; if you think it looks bad after the shaft is out, wait until the RUST sets in...

With the axleshaft out, the wheel is probably hanging askew between the swingarm and the final drive unit, and there's an assortment of spacers and washers lying on the ground (you DO remember where they were a minute ago, don't you?). Place the loose bits out of harms' way, GENTLY move the wheel toward the swingarm, and it should drop to the ground, and roll out beneath the fender. BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET DEBRIS GET ONTO THE EXPOSED DRIVE SPLINE ON THE FINAL DRIVE, THE MATING SPLINES IN THE WHEEL, OR INTO THE BEARINGS. Those areas are really, really, really difficult to adequately clean after they've been contaminated.

Reassemble in the reverse order, torque specifications for the axle nut - 110 ft.-lbs. (150 nm), for the pinch nut on the swing arm - 17 ft.-lbs (23 nm). Bolts for the caliper should be torqued to 30 ft.-lbs. (40 nm).

It's a good idea to lubricate the drive splines in the rear wheel and the mating shaft in the final drive while the rear wheel is out.

I'll include the obvious, since I'm not sure exactly what you need:

Front tire - 150/80-16 Dunlop D404F or Bridgestone G705, recommended inflation 36 p.s.i.

Rear tire - 150/90-15 Dunlop D404 or Bridgestone G702, recommended inflation 36 p.s.i., 41 p.s.i. with passenger or load.

The front tire can be removed (motorcycle on lift) without loosening calipers or any other parts once axle shaft has been withdrawn; after the tire has been changed and the wheel and axle shaft is back in place, torque for the axle nut is 58 ft.-lbs (78 nm) and the pinch nut is 14 ft.-lbs. (19 nm).

The rear tire requires removal of the right saddlebag and brake caliper, as well as the axle shaft. During reassembly, the torque for the axle nut is 110 ft.-lbs. (150 nm), for the pinch nut on the swing arm 17 ft.-lbs (23 nm). Bolts for the caliper should be torqued to 30 ft.-lbs. (40 nm).

It's a good idea to lubricate the drive splines in the rear wheel and the mating shaft in the final drive while the rear wheel is out.

Should be fairly easy if you are used to working on bikes in general. Disconnect rear brake torque arm from the brake housing and the lever from the cam arm (moves the rear brake shoes out when twisted). Remove the split pin from the castellated nut; remove the nut; loosten the axle pinch bolts and remove the axle. Pull the wheel back and to the right to clear the drive splines. Reassemble torque values are 77.4 ftlb for the castellated nut and 4.5 ftlb for the axle pinch bolt.

Dana or Ford axle?

Ford here:
SECTION 205-05: Rear Drive Halfshafts 2002 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Halfshaft
Special Tool(s) Protector, Differential Seal
205-506 Remover, Front Wheel Hub
205-D070 (D93P-1175-B) or equivalent Remover, Halfshaft
205-502
Removal and Installation
NOTE: This procedure applies to both rear halfshaft assemblies.

1. CAUTION: Do not loosen the rear axle wheel hub retainer until after the wheel and tire assembly are removed from the vehicle. Wheel bearing damage will occur if the wheel bearing is unloaded with the weight of the vehicle applied.
   With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .

1. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .

1. NOTE: Have an assistant press the brake pedal to keep the axle from rotating.
   Remove and discard the rear axle wheel hub retainer and the washer.

1. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the brake hose, do not allow the disc brake caliper to hang suspended from the hose.
   Remove the brake disc.
   1. Remove the two bolts and lift the disc brake caliper and brake pads off the brake disc.
      • Using mechanics wire, position the disc brake caliper out of the way.
   1. Remove the brake disc.

1. Remove the bolt retaining the parking brake cable bracket to the frame.

1. CAUTION: Cover the stabilizer link bolt threads and the nut to prevent boot damage when removing the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.
   Using a rubber hose approximately 37.5 mm (1.5 in) long, cover the stabilizer link bolt threads and nut.

1. WARNING: The bolt that retains the upper ball joint to the knuckle is longer and it has fewer threads than the bolt that retains the toe link to the knuckle. Switching these bolts during installation will prevent the pinch arms on the knuckle from correctly retaining the toe link to the knuckle. This may cause the toe link to separate from the knuckle during vehicle operation. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury.
   Remove the pinch bolts and disconnect the toe link and upper ball joint from the knuckle.

1. CAUTION: Support the rear suspension upper arm to prevent boot damage when removing the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.
   Using a wood stick, approximately 450 mm (18 in) long and 25 mm (1 in) wide, support the rear suspension upper arm.

1. CAUTION: Do not use a hammer to separate the outboard CV joint from the hub. Damage to the threads and internal CV joint components may result.
   CAUTION: Once the outboard CV joint separates from the hub the knuckle will continue to pivot until the brake backing plate presses against the suspension lower arm. To prevent damage to the brake backing plate, immediately after separating the outboard CV joint from the hub, rest the knuckle on a cushioned support that is tall enough to keep the backing plate from pressing against the suspension lower arm.
   Separate the outboard CV joint from the hub and rest the knuckle on a cushioned support.
   1. Using the special tool, press the outboard CV joint until it is loose in the hub.
   1. Remove the special tool.
   1. Separate the outboard CV joint from the hub.
   1. Rest the knuckle on a cushioned support.

1. CAUTION: Do not damage the axle shaft oil seal or the machined sealing surface on the inboard CV joint housing.
   CAUTION: Do not allow the splines on inboard CV joint housing to touch the axle shaft oil seal.
   NOTE: A circlip retains the inboard CV joint housing to the differential side gear in the axle.
   Using the special tool, disengage the inboard CV joint housing from the differential side gear.

1. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the axle shaft oil seal, install the special tool before removing the inboard CV joint housing from the axle.
   Install the special tool.

1. Remove the halfshaft assembly from the vehicle.

1. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the axle shaft oil seal, install the Differential Seal Protector before positioning the inboard CV joint housing in the axle.
   CAUTION: Always install the halfshaft with a new retainer circlip and a new rear axle wheel hub retainer.
   CAUTION: Never use power tools to tighten the rear axle wheel hub retainer.
   To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Jack up vehicle and support with jack stands
Take off wheel
remove brake caliper
remove caliper bracket
remove rotor
remove axle retaining nut cotter pin
remove axle retaining nut
remove axle from output flange
pull axle out of vehicle
hub and bearing assembly held in by 4 bolts

installation is reverse of removal. You will need to find out the torque specs for the axle retaining nut.