Trying to take out my clutch cable to replace the seals because it leaks bad. so i took out all the screws around and the the little plate to pour the oil in and the big nut at the bottom. so what else do i have to do to take primary cover off?

it is hard to diagnose with so many listed faults
first up slipping when hot indicates a weak pressure plate tension but the reasons o slipping when hot may start at a bad clutch master cylinder not fully allowing the brake fluid back to the reservoir ( blocked compensating port)
that creates a catch 22 situation where the pressure place is not fully engaged and so it slips marginally and that builds up friction heat which in tern cause what is called brake fade . In other words the friction surface ( clutch plate facing) cannot absorb any more heat and so it slips
moving on , the slippage can be from excessive oil on the linings but if that is the case it will slip or grab ( shudder) on take off
The oil will most likely be from from a front input shaft seal and that may be from failing oil seal or overfull transmission or blocked breather for the transmission
seal generally will produce a oil mist in the bell housing after time but adding to your statement of hard to get/change gears I suspect that the oil leak could be from a failing front shaft bearing of the transmission not allowing the seal to work properly
To sum up , the transmission will have to come out and the clutch kit and throwout bearing replaced
from the slippage I would recommend that the flywheel clutch face be machine to remove high hot spots and that combination will give a smooth clutch operation at this point if there are signs of a rear main seal leaking , replace it before the flywheel is refitted
remove the extension housing that the throw bearing slides on and the seal is in that housing
that front bearing can be checked also and if in doubt , overhaul the bearings in the transmission
(visible damage to the bearing cage will be evident here indicating a failing bearing)
when finished replace the clutch master cylinder if more than 5 years old since replacement
sorry not good news and it will amount to a costly exercise but there are no short cuts to a good reliable jib

Agreed. The clutch disk is likely worn. The pressure plate is self adjusting so there is no adjustment available on stock Audi pressure plates or indeed in most pressure plates.

Another possible cause is a leaking rear main engine seal that is allowing engine oil to seep and then be thrown around the bell housing and work its way onto the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate.

Test you clutch in 3-4 gear acceleration from a slow speed...if the engine speed flares faster than the car accelerates, you have a worn/bad clutch.

In the middle of the clutch cable under a rubber boot is the adjustment for the cable. Slide this down to access the adjuster. This may take a little effort to do. Use a 1/2 inch wrench to hold the adjuster and a 9/16 to loosen the lock nut. Turn the lock nut and adjuster all the way to the top. Remove the retaining ring on the underside of hand control and remove pin. Remove clutch lever. Slide out the pin holding the clutch cable in place. Remove derby cover, the large round cover where the cable enters buy removing the four hex screws. Remove spring with attached hex lock plate. Use a flat head screw driver to turn adjusting screw clockwise to release ramp and coupling mechanism. it should move forward and make the cable slack enough to remove it. Unscrew nut from adjusting screw, remove the cable end from small slotted end of coupler. Unscrew the cable from primary cover.

Screw the new cable in to the cover, reconnect cable to the coupler. Leave derby cover off and re-install everything, except spring and hex plate. Turn the clutch adjusting screw counter-clockwise until resistance is felt, then back-off 1/4 turn. Re-install spring and hex plate, you may have to wiggle the hex nut a bit to get everything to line up. Replace the derby cover. Turn adjuster on the cable down until there is about 1/16 free play at clutch handle. Tighten the adjuster lock nut. Slide the protective boot back over the cable adjuster. I recommend using zip ties to seal the boot. Place a zip tie at the bottom of the boot first. Then using some WD-40, insert the straw a good bit in to the top of the boot. Spray slowly until foam starts coming out the top. Seal the top of the boot with a zip tie. This will keep the adjuster from rusting. That's it your done.

If the oil is leaking out of the clutch cable, you must replace the clutch cable. The cable has a seal in the end of it that is supposed to keep the oil from getting into the cable. If the seal is bad, there is no way to dix it and the cable has to be replaced. If the oil is leaking where the cable goes into the transmission, there is an o-ring aound the threaded end of the cable that could be bad. It depends on whether the oil is coming out of the cable or around the cable.

Good Luck
Steve

The running problem is an air leak between the carb body and the cylinder. Hardened rubber seals or manifold are not sealing out un-carbureted air. The "milk" in the oil is emulsified water. The water could be due to cylinder / head gaskets leaking, water pump seal leaking and potentially condensation in the gearbox. New fiber friction plates should be all the clutch needs. The metal pressure plates should be fine assuming they are not warped. Please rate my answer. Thanks.

That's exactly what that is. We call it a "derby cover". It's held on by four screws. Take this cover off. There is a locknut and small spring that is behind the cover. This holds the clutch adjuster. Just put it back in the hole. The plate is sealed by a "quad ring". This is an O-ring made of square material. Just replace the quad ring and it should solve your leak. You can use some thick grease to hold the quad ring in place while you replace the cover. Don't forget to put the locknut and spring back in first.

Good Luck
steve

You could do this but leak could also be around oil filler plug if not seated. The main engine bearing seal is more likely if the unit is old with large number of hours.

If you find a bad gasket, replace with the silicone make your own sealant AND DO NOT overtighten screws. That can worsen the problem with gaskets.

the leak is probably a separate issue from the noise. is the leak very bad? can you tell if it's engine oil or transmission lube/fluid? most likely the rear main bearing seal needs replacing. the noise is most likely the clutch release bearing. you should replace all components of the clutch assembly which include; clutch plate, pressure plate, release bearing and piolot bearing. also have the fly wheel resurfaced. while the trans is out, you can check the rear main seal and the trans input shaft seal and replace accordingly.

Not sure which seam you are talking about. But here goes, the compressor will have a front plate that will have a seal at the shaft behind the clutch, then a gasket (or o-ring) to seal that plate to the compressor body. Then at the other end where the hoses are, you will also have a gasket (or o-ring) in between the body and this plate. You will have a plate or an adapter that bolts to the end plate that the hoses bolt to. any one of these gaskets (or o-rings) can leak. If it is in the front area close to the belt or clutch area that could be the shaft seal, that is the only part I would tell you to try an replace, the body gaskets are too risky.

Yes, this does sound like the seal is bad. Unless you have replaced the bearing and seal in one of these bafore. It can be very dificult, without expierence. If not replaced correctly, it can still leak or can cause other problems.