Ive got a 1974 dodge pickup with a mid 80's? 315 engine. My alternator has a bat, field and grd terms. My wiring calls for 2 field terms? How do I marry them? The alternator is putting out big time and at a voltage of 13 to 18 volts.

This answer covers:
2005 Chrysler 300 6cyl VIN "G" 3.5L SFI HO (72% of 2005 300's)
2005 Chrysler 300 6cyl VIN "R" 2.7L MFI DOHC (28% of 2005 300's)
2005 Dodge Magnum 5.7L engine

Alternator

Removal & Installation


WARNING - Precautions Section:
Disconnect negative cable from battery before removing battery output wire (b+ wire) from alternator. Failure to do so can result in injury or damage to electrical system.

2.7L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Disconnect negative battery cable.
3. Remove alternator drive belt.
4. Disconnect alternator field circuit plug.
5. Remove B+ terminal nut and wire.
6. Remove 2 lower mounting bolts.
7. Remove alternator.

To install:

1. Install alternator.
2. Install upper bolt mounting bolt.
3. Install 2 lower mounting bolts.
4. Tighten bolts to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
5. Install B+ terminal nut and wire. Tighten nut to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
6. Connect alternator field circuit plug.
7. Install alternator drive belt.
8. Connect negative battery cable.

3.5L Engines

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Disconnect negative battery cable.
3. Remove alternator drive belt.
4. Remove bracket bolts.
5. Remove upper mounting bolt.
6. Raise and support vehicle.
7. Remove middle splash pan.
8. Disconnect alternator field circuit plug.
9. Remove B+ terminal nut and wire.
10. Remove lower mounting bolts.
11. Remove alternator.

To install:

1. Install alternator.
2. Install lower mounting bolts. Loosen install the upper mounting bolt.
3. Tighten lower mounting bolts to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
4. Connect alternator field circuit plug.
5. Install B+ terminal nut and wire. Tighten nut to 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
6. Install middle splash pan.
7. Lower vehicle.
8. Remove loose installed upper bolt.
9. Install bracket and bracket bolt.
10. Install upper mounting bolt and bracket.
11. Tighten upper mounting bolt to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
12. Tighten the bracket bolt to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
13. Install alternator drive belt.
14. Connect negative battery cable.

5.7L Engines

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
3. Remove alternator drive belt.
4. Raise and support vehicle.
5. Unsnap plastic insulator cap from B+ output terminal.
6. Remove B+ terminal mounting nut at rear of alternator. Disconnect terminal from alternator.
7. Disconnect field wire connector at rear of alternator by pushing on connector tab.
8. Remove alternator support bracket nut and bolt. Remove support bracket. See Figure 1.
9. Remove 2 alternator mounting bolts. See Figure 2.
10. Remove alternator from vehicle.

Fig. 1 Alternator Support Bracket - 5.7L engine



Fig. 2 Alternator Mounting Bolts - 5.7L engine

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the ALT can vary by 2 factors, engine in car size, and options
some cars have HD alternator options too.
2.4 , 3.0 L or 3.8L engine?

my guess is you burned up the rear connector.
and dont know where to get one,
1: try Dodge? (throw it on counter and ask?)
2: off a wrecked dodge.
3: find an aftermarket connector> that matches.

the drawing. is online
the rear of alt.
B+ lug 12pm (up)
then the field plug
below
shows 2 pins.
the bottom of plug socket, has a large cast tab.
feed pin is 2pm clocked loc.
and other side top is PCM reg side. 7pm clocked.

wire DG/O (darkgreen-orange) goes to ASD relay(FEED?)
wire DG goes to PCM (reg)

that is all there is , online FSM.
feed is the power feed to the field coil.
the other side is the PCM regulator side of the field coil.
the PCM controls the Alternator full time.

it should fit.

I= (Ignition), A=Ammeter=Battery=BAT, S=Stator=STA, F= Field=FLD,

stock car YJ ? , or all hacked up. (old cars get hacked)
2.5 or 4.0 liter engine? still have a real jeep alternator not upgraded?

loss of electrical power (first rule, we never need to guess.!!!)
not with a voltmeter. (tool that costs $20 )
alternator good (by what means, autozoned?) ( we can find out one car)
but low on gauge. what gauge in dash voltmeter.? sure...
i think you car has no charge lamp only the dash VM.

own an volt meter? a DMM? hand volt meter?

1: if the alternator charge lamp is stuck on driving.
2: is battery voltage at 13.3 to 15vdc with engine at 800 RPM idling
alternator belt not slipping, for sure.....???
if the battery voltage is near 12.5v and falling running that is
an Alternator system failure, note i said, system. !!!

this is first. if we get to here. we can find the real cause.
test 3:
is the charge lamp on keyon, and goes out running?
make sure the big fuse for the alternator in the engine bay fuse
box is not blown, 50amp?

I have no 95 FSM and my online source sucks for 95

Alternator dead: (alt good)
1: belt slipping . engine at 300rpm, nah.
2: fuse blown, the big one. (engine bay fuse box)
3: ;wrong alternator, there are many, most others will fail, even good ones.......
4: alternator ground bad. (end to end, to battery minus)
5: bad wiring to same. bad connections, any to battery or alt.
6: some jeeps the PCM has the field regulator, see link below.
ECU pin 20 , is field pin, it is on 95, 4.0L (engine not stated)

is the CEL lamp on, and throwing code 41 DTC?, alt, field errors?

the alt has 4 pins, battery, field,ground and voltage sense.
The reg is in the PCM. and if bad is a bad $3 transistor..
see same form for fix for that issue..

i think this is same as your. 1996 is big change year.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/1993-wrangler-pcm-ecu-ecm-pin-out-diagram-1170004/


you can test the alt, PCM wire pulled !, by full fielding the alt.
grounding the field term, no wires on field pin of alt.
see FSM for details on that.
The PCM modulates the field pin to control charge at all times.

BAT attaches to the battery charging wire. GRD is ground wire. STA is stator. FLO is probably FLD or field wire connection. It would help immensely if i knew what year and model you were working on. I imagine it is a 300 straight six possibly in a ford f150 or bronco.

Hello allyssiandra.
The green wire leading to the alternator is grounded by the computer to complete the field circuit.
The dark green/orange wire is power supply to the field circuit fed by the auto shutdown relay.
The large output wire out of the stator in the alternator should have battery voltage on it at all times. Test to verify this power at the alternator terminal. There is a fusible link in this feed wire that could have went open circuit.
To test the system manually ground the green wire with the engine running. This is called a full field test. This will put the alternator in full output. If it doesn't, apply positive battery power to the dark green/orange wire with the engine running. This bypasses the auto shut down relay.
Hook up wires at the alternator before starting the engine for safety sake.
Do this much and report back here to me and I will help with the next step in repair.

the thicker red wire connects to the (BAT) and the other is the ground

So, you have an integral regulator on your alternator.... so you have to connect the output of the regulator to your battery. You also have to connect between the regulator and the alternator. Hmmmmm how to describe....
using your descriptions of wires and prongs.....
Connect Wire Color to Prong

Yellow (w/wht dot) A+
White (w/blk tracer) STA
Black (w/orange tracer) Bat (alt output)
Ground wire Grd
Orange (w/Lt.Blue) F (field)
If battery was connected, the Black with orange tracer wire would have +12 Volts on it at all times

well , the ECU runs the alternator. (DG wire "dark green")
the alternator field is controlled 100% by PCM reg , inside PCM.
so..... if the running engine has 13.3, to 15vdc the alt is working
if lower, its not. (rpm on engine 800 or more)

not scanning the PCM a the CEL glow, you missed the boat.
why not scan it. see why the PCM is upset (DTC errors stored)

see the 2 lower pins below , those go to PCM.
in theory if the field in the old BAD ALT, was shorted.
that could in fact, burn up the PCM regulator.
shorting outputs of PCM , does that in most cases.
im the poor sod that fixes PCM's.so....