I have a 1984 h/d fxr I got a new outter primary and it is getting stuck in the starter bearing I have oiled it and greased it but it still gets stuck,, anything you can think of

Sorry 1984 is back beyond my expertise and/or knowledge but later model years jackshaft might be somewhat similar:

Disconnect the negative battery cable. THEN remove the primary cover. (If you are only going to service the items from the bolt through to the spring it is not necessary to remove clutch but if it is desired to replace the coupling and/or the retaining ring it will also require starter removal. So, bearing that in mind, if necessary, next remove the clutch assembly. THEN while holding the pinion gear in place remove the jackshaft bolt, the lockplate and the thrust washer and remove the jackshaft from the inner primary as an assembly. THEN remove the pinion gear from the jackshaft and then remove the coupling and the spring. The spring and the retaining ring are inside the coupling. Replace the retaining ring if deemed necessary. ALSO if the coupling is forced through the primary case oil seal you will necessarily have to replace the seal as it will be ruined. THEN remove the coupling from the starter shaft and if needed replace the retaining ring. The jackshaft must be installed back onto the starter shaft prior to installing the jackshaft with the shallow side of the coupling going/facing towards the jackshaft and also facingthe jackshaft splines. Remember to reinstall the coupling retaining ring if it was removed. ALSO, be sure to install the coupling on the starter output shaft with the counter bore facing the jackshaft. THEN put the spring inside the coupling and install the pinion gear on the shaft put the lockplate and the thrust washer on the bolt and put the bolt in place in the jackshaft. If you removed the retaining ring put it back on shaft and then slide the jackshaft assembly back into position in the inner primary. In order to hold the lockplate and thrust washer in place be certain that the lockplate tab is properly in the keyway. THEN, having aligned the lockplate tab and thrust washer properly in the slot with the jackshaft keyway screw the jackshaft bolt into the starter shaft and while holding the pinion gear in position tighten the bolt to 84-108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm) and bend the locking tab against bolt head. THEN reinstall the clutch assembly etc. and the primary case etc using new gaskets as required etc., refill the primary with oil, reconnect the negative battery cable and check to be sure you have not forgotten anything.
CAUTION

I don't really understand what information you want. There is only one gear involved with the starter and it simply drops into the starter housing and the starter drive shaft holds it in place. For a diagram, go to http://www.bikebandit.com Click on OEM parts and go from there. Here is the best drawing of the starter drive that I could find. http://www.bikebandit.com/1984-harley-davidson-fxr/o/m1397#sch179211 If there is any other information that you need, please re-post with another question.

Good Luck
Steve

Your 1984 FXR has the mid mount shifter on it. You can change over to a forward shifter and eliminate you mid mount shifter. To do this, you must pull the outer primary, the clutch and primary chain assembly and the inner primary to get the shifer shaft out of the primary. You must pull the inner primary off to get the old shift shaft out. You can put a plain inspection cover on the outer primary but you've got to close the hole in the backside of the inner primary. I use a 1/2" freeze plug that you can get at almost any auto parts house. Just measure the hole to make sure of the size you need. I'm not out in the shop or I could tell you for sure. Coat the freeze plug (welch plug) with some non-hardening PermaTex and drive it into the hole. Should you ever wish to change it back to stock, simply drive the plug out and you're back in business.

Good Luck
Steve

fist of all r u putting in mains too u should replace them all at once. to start u need a good torque wrench and some plastigauge and a book with all ur specs. u can get it at most parts stores. ok take the cap off of one and using a small block or wood or a mallat. not a hammer. knock the cap off and the connecting rod up about a half inch. clean good and put the new bearing in. no oil should get on the back of the bearing. a little assembly grease on the inside of the bearing. ok take ur plastigauge and put a new bearing in dry on both top and bottom. use a small piece of the plastigauge and put it on the bearing and torque it down, then take it apart and messure how much it smashed it out. that tells u the clearance. if its in spec then u carfully take the smashed plastic out and grease it good and put in back in and torque it down. do the same for all the rest. if you have a plastigauge showing too much clearance u may still be ok if its realy close but if its mor then 3 to 5 past spec u need a new crank, or have it turned down. remember most specs list new and max. dont go over the max because with new bearing just think how much u had with the old ones

DID YOU PULL PRIMARY COVER AND REMOVE BOLT THAT HOLDS STARTER PRIMARY GEAR TO STARTER?

what I do is put a glob of grease in the palm of my hand and push bearing down in to grease untill you see the grease come out of the bearing or you can go to your local parts store and get a bearing grease packer. also wipe spindal with a genorus glob and put grease in between bearing in rotor. To get to the bearings all you need to do is remove tire, center cap (outter grease seal) the silver cap in the center. the cotter pin, Nut, washer outter bearing then the rotor will slip off inner bearing is in rotor still being held in by inner grease seal take seal off replace with new one pack your bearings and reverse removal procedure when retightening nut do not make tight just snug the go another turn if you go to tight you will burn your bearings real fast.

To remove that arm, the inner primary must come off, but try this first:
About 75% of the time, just replacing that allen screw will solve the problem. Don't just tighten it, replace it. Make sure the arm is slid all the way on the splines. The screw usually doesn't loosen, it stretches.

- If the starter is turning the motor , I dont understand why u replaced the relay and the ignition....but - thats water under the bridge now .... Open the primary and check the jack shaft... put a pliers on it - pull it out and turn it 1/4 turn a few times - make sure its not binding. Take a look at the bushing on the outer primary.... may need to bevel the edges a little. Make sure the battery is charged enough to give the engine a few strong turns. Let me know what you find