I GOT A MANUAL 4-SPEED AND IT WILL NOT SHIFT INTO GEAR WHEN THE MOTOR IS RUNNING.I REPLACED THE TEN INCH CLUTCH,PRESSURE PLATE,WITH THE ELEVEN INCH.ITS A FOUR ON THE FLOOR NOT A COLLUM SHIFT

is your clutch pedal soft? If so you could have a slave cylinder leaking or maybe just in the the system bleed back up. Might be that the clutch drive disc is burned up making it hard to shift

Is clutch release linkage working? Installing clutch disc backwards will do this too. With engine off, put in gear, depress clutch pedal and turn engine by hand to see if clutch is still dragging.

Which transmission does yours have 4T65-E or 4T80-E ?

4T80-E
No Fourth Gear

Checks

Causes

1-2 Shift Solenoid Valve
?€¢
Inoperative
?€¢
Debris
?€¢
Pinched wires

3-4 Shift Valve Bore Plug

Misassembled

4th Band

Burned, slipping, missing

4th Servo Cover

Cracked

4th Servo Pin

Broken, seized

4th Servo Piston

Damaged

4th Servo Seals

Rolled, cut or damaged
4T65-E
Slipping or No Fourth Gear
Slipping or No Fourth Gear Checks
Cause

DEFINITION: A large engine RPM increase is noted in fourth gear, Drive range, with little or no vehicle forward speed increase. First, second, and third gear operation are normal. Shifts into fourth gear are soft or do not occur. Fourth gear ratio is 0.705:1.

Automatic Transmission Fluid Level
Low fluid level

Transmission Main Line Pressure
Low transmission main line pressure

Oil Filter Assembly
• The oil filter assembly (100) is missing, plugged, or damaged.
• The oil filter seal assembly (101) is missing or is damaged.

Control Valve Body Assembly
• The 3-4 shift valve (362) or the 4-3 manual downshift valve (360) is stuck or binding.
• Debris is found in the passages of the control valve body (301) or of the control valve body spacer plate and gasket assembly (396)

Case Cover Assembly
Distortion or damage occurs at the manual valve (404) or at the case cover (401), causing PRN oil leak.

Driven Sprocket Support Assembly
A plugged third clutch oil passage in the driven sprocket support assembly (609)

Fourth Clutch Assembly
• The clutch plates (500-502) are worn, damaged, or misassembled.
• A missing or not seated fourth clutch spring retaining ring (601)
• A damaged spring assembly (602) or piston (603)
• Worn or damaged fourth clutch piston seals (604, 605)

Third Clutch Sprag Assembly
• The sprag (720) was misassembled or backwards on the inner race (661).
• A damaged third clutch sprag assembly (653, 661, 719-721)

the reason for hard shifting and selection when running is that the clutch shaft ( input shaft) is still turning even though the clutch pressure plate is released
it can be from oil/grease on the fly wheel /pressure plate face causing it to stick when hot
it may be from sticking clutch plate on the splines binding when hot
or it could be a dry spigot bush or failed bearing in the end of the crankshaft that positions the clutch shaft
check the pedal height adjustment and the position it is from the floor when starting to engage
It may be adjustment under the dash

Now assuming all the parts were correctly installed and the proper parts, are you sure the clutch fluid was bled properly? if there is even a bubble of air in there the clutch wont 100% disengage and cause more issues in 1st/rev. Some clutch systems need to be bled in a specific way and may not be as simple as others.

clutch is slipping you will need to replace the whole unit,plate/bearing/friction .

this sounds like the clutch slave is goin out, this unit is on the outside of the transmission. Possibly losing pressure!! Your transmission does not use transmission fluid, but instead gear oil. Have the following checked:
1. Clutch Slave (possibly worn)-this will cause soft or hard clutch pedal feel, slipping clutch, unintended clutch release, hard gear engagement, no/insufficient clutch movement.

*2. Clutch pedal Mounting Plate (possibly cracked)-this will cause improper gear engagement, hard gear engagement, soft pedal feel, insufficient clutch movement.

*this plate is located above the clutch pedal itself, apply pressure on the pedal with one hand while inspecting the plate for fatigue cracks(use a bright flashlight). This is very common on these models. This problem will eventually get worst and most mechanics never figure this out.

more questions email me at [email protected]!!

It sounds as though either the throw out bearing or pressure plate are bad. The grinding makes me want to lean towards the pressure plate.

You need to check the clutch hydraulics i.e. the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder for their function, even if its cable operated try to adjust it so as it opens the clutch fork a little more to allow the clutch plate to be free,thus easy selection of gears.
If this fails thn you will have to replace the pro-kit i.e. clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing.
Hope this helps!

I will bet it grinds when you try to engage first or reverse. When this happened on my car, I adjusted the clutch and it improved. You need about a half inch of free play when you first touch the pedal with your foot. If you have a slave cylinder, (hydraulic clutch). You may need to bleed the system. With air in the system, you can't get enough clutch to fully disengage the trans from the motor.(Clutch and pressure plate) It's like you only pushed down half way on the pedal. If it's not hydraulic, it should be adjusted with wrenches. If clutch is fine, It could be a loose shift linkage. It would seem extra sloppy when moving shifter, It would just not go in gear, with out the grinding.Hope this helps. lbreen