Question about 2005 Suzuki Boulevard C90

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Outer part of read disc / rotor for brakes is very loose. Looks like rivits are expanded

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Hello,
The rotor on your motorcycle is a full floating rotor and the outer portion is supposed to " float ". It normally has side to side play and the rivets have some play forward and backward. If your bike has a lot of miles and the brakes have been used heavily, the rotors may become very loose and make noise. I have never heard of any failure in normal conditions and the rotors may be fine but I would recommend a qualified technician look at the brake just for safety.
Thanks and I hope that this helps.
Steve

Posted on Jan 04, 2011

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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02skidoo700mxz.No ride in 2yrs. ride 15min, felt drag, brake lever solid as rock, rotor glowin orange. in 10min lever floppy to handle (no pressure). in 30min check lever, now back normal. explain??


taking that this a motor cycle then you have suffered what is known as" brake fade"
to understand the term it works like this
for brakes to work, kinetic energy ( spinning brake rotor) is converted to heat energy by the friction caused by applying the brake
this loss of kinetic energy is the braking action or the bike slowing down
normally there is enough heat transference to the passing wind but if the heat generated exceeds the heat transfer then the brakes and rotor will not absorb any more heat generated by the friction and so the brake stops working
(like oil on the pads or linings)
what cause it to happen--
there is clearance between the disc rotor and the brake pads but if the brakes are applied then the brake fluid is pushed out against the pistons and applies pressure to the rotor ( braking action)
when the brake is released the fluid is returned to the reservoir and there is no problem
BUT
if that fluid is not allowed to return fully, the brakes remain on( your brake drag) and the heat generated besides going to the air , also heats and expands the brake fluid
with nowhere to expand to , the brake is applied by the expanding fluid
AS all brake fluids are hydroscopic( absorb moisture from the atmosphere) the water in the brake fluid boils off and you loose any pressure because the system is now full of air and air compresses
when the brakes cool down the brake action comes back as the air has bled back to the reservoir
The fix is to replace the master cylinder and the brake fluid and to ensure that the calliper slides freely on the mounting rods so that it self centres over the rotor
what you have experienced is very common on heavy trucks on long down grades where the brakes over heat and fade resulting in control of the truck

Jan 20, 2017 | Winter Sports

1 Answer

How thick is the lining on a new brake shoe


Lining thickness is dependent on a few factors. A. Is your lining bonded to the shoe or pad, or is it Rivited to the shoe or pad? B. What is the application? Lining thickness is determined ultimatley by the manufacturer. Generally speaking on Automotive and light truck applications new lining for brake shoes is between 6/32nds and 12/32nds of an inch. Add a couple 32nds if rivited. On front brake pads the lining is much thicker when new. On average a new brake pad can have lining between 10/32nds to 18/32nds. Pads are in need of replacement when bonded lining has worn to 2/32nd and rivited lining has worn to 3/32nds since the rivet head can come in contact with the disc brake rotor or drum at 1/32nds. Lining can also break free from the pad or shoe when they get that low due to rotor or drum out-of-round. This can cause lining to break free from the pad or shoe and cause dmage to the drum or rotor surface. When replacing brakes, its always good to have drums or rotors machined or replaced. For rotors, there are three specs to take into consideration. 1. Minimium machining thickness. If rotors are machined beyond their reccomended minimium machining they will warp due to heat. This warping will eventually lead to brake pedal pulsation. 2. Run-out; Run-out is measured using a dial micrometer and usually .003 to .005 of an inch is considered excessive. 3. Material Thickness Variation; or parralleism is measure with a micrometer. .0003 to .0005 ten thousandths of an inch is considered excessive. It is extremly hard to find a rotor that will pass all three of these measurements. If someone tells you the rotors do not need to be machined because they "look good", don't trust them because they don't know what they are talking about. Rotor condition can not be determined by the human eye. Drums have a maximium diameter they can not exceed, as well as an out-of-round specification as well. A good brake job will always have drums and rotors either machined or replaced. Money can be saved if they can be machined as it it cheaper to machine than replace.

Nov 28, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2002 ford explore and I'm starting to


I believe I would check the rear Brakes. Your truck most likely has rear disc brakes. and most likely has an automatic transmission. Which means you never or rarely use your parking brake. I see it all the time. parking brake which is a drum brake under/inside and part of the rear rotor. It could also be a rear brake issue.Remove the rear tire, and look over the brake rotor and the pads. If everything looks ok there
(rotor is smooth looking on the inner and outer face. they are not rusted and pitted. or gouged) pad has brake materiel of at least 1/8". if that looks ok then remove the caliper and look at the parking brake shoes and hardware. i see a lot of the shoes brake material comes loose from the backing. which will cause noise, vibration, sometimes wheel lock up.

Hope that helps

Sep 30, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you change front brake pads on an Audi A6 2006


How to change front brake pads & rotors (brake disc) on 2006 Audi A6:

Atention!!!
Don't disconnect any brake line from caliper!
Don't disconnect any ABS sensor!
For change front brake pads you must raise vehicle, remove wheels, extract the retaining spring of the caliper, and remove the caliper as follow:

1. Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper, and do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose!
2. Remove top and bottom caps (on back side of the caliper) for access to guide pins, then unbolt and remove them from the brake carrier. Remove the caliper.
3. Now you must thoroughly clean the brake calipers (free of grease).
4. Remove outer brake pad from brake carrier.
5. Pull inner brake pad out of brake caliper piston.
6. Remove brake carrier from wheel bearing housing (two ribbed bolts). 125 Nm
7. Remove brake disc from wheel hub.
8. Install brake carrier on wheel bearing housing. Tightening torque for two ribbed bolts = 125 Nm.
9. Check up the brake fluid level on the reservor, and emptying if neccessary!
10. Push piston back into brake caliper housing.
11. Install inner brake pad (with expanding spring) in brake caliper piston. (Arrow marked on pad - if exist, must point in direction of brake disc rotation when vehicle is moving forward).
12. Install outer brake pad into brake carrier.
13. Bolt brake caliper housing to brake carrier using two guide pins. Tightening torque is 25 Nm.
14. Install both caps.
15. Insert retaining spring into brake caliper housing. Important: Depress the brake pedal firmly several times while the car is stationary so that the brake pads adjust to their normal operating positions!!! Check brake fluid level and top up if neccessary!!!

Nov 26, 2010 | 2006 Audi A6

1 Answer

How do you get the capierer pin off to put front brake pads on my Mercury Sable LS?


Section 06-03: Brakes, Front Disc 1999 Taurus, Sable Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Brake Shoe and Lining Removal
  1. Remove brake master cylinder filler cap (2162). Check fluid level in brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478) . Remove brake fluid until brake master cylinder reservoir is half full. Discard removed fluid.
  1. Raise vehicle on hoist.
  1. Remove wheel and tire assembly from front disc brake rotor mounting face. Use care to avoid damage or interference with disc brake caliper (2B120) , front disc brake rotor shield (2K004) or front wheel knuckle (3K185) .
  1. Remove rear brake pin retainers (2N386).
  1. NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect hydraulic connections.

    Lift disc brake caliper from front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) and front disc brake rotor (1125) . Do not pry directly against metal caliper piston or damage will occur.
  1. NOTE: To prevent damage, do not allow disc brake caliper to hang by the front brake hose (2078) .

    Position disc brake caliper out of the way.
  1. Remove inner outer brake shoe and lining (2001) assembly from front disc brake caliper anchor plate .
  1. Inspect both rotor braking surfaces. Minor scoring or buildup of lining material does not require machining or replacement of front disc brake rotor.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
remove the 2 pins, #10 in pic. Usually has a dust cover over pin accessopening. Usually torx haed or hex head bolts (pins).


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Nov 12, 2010 | 1999 Mercury Sable

1 Answer

When changing front rotors on a 67 vette should you rerivet rotor to hub? and can you just press the rivits to hold hub to rotor ..And how much should press rivets?


My Chilton book only goes back to 1968 but it describes a Delco-Moraine opposed piston disc brake set up for Corvettes up til 1973. According to them all 4 rotors are riveted on at the factory. They say " When a disc must be replaced, the rivets can be drilled out and then the wheel studs will be used for disc retention purposes." Hope this helps.

Aug 30, 2010 | 1965 Chevrolet Corvette

1 Answer

Having trouble removing rear disc brake rotor fron


This vehical has drum styal park brake shoes on the inside of the brake rotor so make sure the park brake isn't set and you can turn the rotor. If you can't turn the rotor you will have to look into this first if the park brake is set or sticking you won't get the rotor off if thats ok try spray with penting oil helps a little. I use a 4 or 5 lb sluge hammer and hit the rotor kinds close to the wheel studs about 5 times then hit the outer edge from the back side also works on the outerside. Don't be afread to hit hard I never broke one.

Jun 26, 2010 | 2005 Toyota Highlander

1 Answer

Are the front rotors supposed to float?


The description "floating rotors" actually means the actually disk portion of the brake rotor "floats" in its' mounting system. Usually the supports look like small buttons. The buttons hold the outer rotor to the inner portion, they allow the outer portion to expand and "float" to keep heat from warping the rotor.
Here's a link to pic of a floating rotor:
http://www.boothillmotorcycles.co.uk/shop/images/v-3102.jpg
Notice those small round little button shaped disks at the spoke intersection, those hold the outer part to the inner part.

Jun 24, 2010 | 1996 Suzuki GSX 750 F (Katana)

1 Answer

Front drivers side disc brake on 2001 dodge stratus. put on new rotor and brake pads. Get up to around 5mph it makes a noise, until brakes are hit. accelerate the noise starts again. outer brake pad is...


The piston from the caliber will keep the inner and outer pads close to the rotor. If outer pads is loose, need to reassemble to find out if it didn't get installed right.

Nov 01, 2009 | 2001 Dodge Stratus

1 Answer

Removal of hub


Seasmith1, I would suggest more details when you post....just to clarify what the problem is.
I'm assuming this is 4wd?
1. You must remove the Hub to get to the rotor
2. Unbolt the 6- 12mm bolts and back them off to flush with the studs
3. Get a brass pipe or rod and bang the end of the stud/nut, 3 or 4 times, fairly hard, and the EVIL cone washers will come loose. Repeat on all studs/nuts until they're all loose, then carefully remove the outer hub from the rest of hub.
4. Remove snap rings, brake shoe and thrust plate in order to get to brake drum. The brake drum has 3- T20 Bit Screws in it which you will need a T20 Driver for. Remove that Drum to get to the Adjusting Nut which is a 53mm nut. I used a 54mm sunken open ended wrench/socket, turned the hub, thus, loosening the screw. (By the way, mine was hand turnable, check that first but plan on having something that fits it to tighten it. You can 'borrow' a bearing adjuster nut kit from most pep boys....also, you can push in the axle, CAREFULLY, in order to get a more shallow socket over it)
5, once you remove that nut, CAREFULLY pull the rotor off(hub attached) and do NOT let the outer bearing fall out on the ground/dirt/grass.
6. Remove outer Bearing, turn over and remove bearing seal(you will need a oil seal puller or use whatever method you want....They are 3$, just pull it, right?)
7. Remove inner bearing, then turn back over ( place 2- 4x4's on each side of hub under the disc area, placing inner bearing race side down, over a towel or something soft) and use brass shaft or heavy gauge pipe to tap out races(DO NOT use anything steel, Iron, etc., you will damage the housing, races and then, well, yer screwed.) Just tap from side to side, few pretty good raps each side, each time, until it falls out onto a TOWEL or something soft.
8. Turn over and repeat # 7 for outer bearing race.
9. You will HAVE to remove all of these items if you are wanting to have the rotor turned, also, you will have to remove the 14mm bolts(6 of them) holding the hub to the rotor. I placed the disc on the ground on a towel at an angle(resting on two lug studs at a time), put a 14mm, deep socket, 1/2'' drive on there and gave it a good whack, they came right loose, then repeated that step for all six, removed them, pulled out the hub, AND VOILA, you're off to the local parts store for disc turning.

I recommend, after all that work, replacing the rotors. They're on average 20-25$ each. Each Rotor turning will cost you a minimum of 13$......I mean, 14 more, total and you have new rotors.

DON'T FORGET; High Temp. Disc Brake bearing grease, bearing grease packing tool or gloves, LOTS of rags and paper towels, Disc Pads, Disc pad quiet(they usually give it to you but ASK), 53mm rental bearing nut socket, snap ring pliers(if you need them), brass staff or pipe(also carefully clean any brass flakes that might go flying and don't grease and install bearings until you do)

Good luck, Seasmith!

Apr 20, 2009 | Toyota 4Runner Cars & Trucks

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