The plate inside that indicates the speed vibrated loose and keeps rotating around. odometer and "needle" still operate but the bottom plate with the speed marks on it came loose and is circulating around on the inside of the speedometer.
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1. The top loading bobbin cases have small brackets to keep them from turning or moving up or down.
2. Adjust brackets with small screwdriver. Allow enough room for thread to flow through.
3. Rotate hand wheel both directions to make sure the bobbin case doesn't move around. Also, watch the thread to see if it is flowing across the top of the bobbin case.
4. You may need to slow down movement of your "free motion". Also, make sure you are using the right pressure foot.
needle too small or machine out of time. to time machine theres a mark on needle bar. lower needle bar till mark shows and raise bar till even with bar guide. take off feeder plate so u can see needle in relation to hook. when mark on needel bar is even with bar guide the hook should be 1/16 fron passing the needle. if not loosen 3 screws and trial and error it to get it right. use a small screwdriver and tighten just on screw when u hab aglined the hook to needle. do a full rotation and watch where needle is and needle bar mark. needel should be as clost to hook without touching.
that is a serious problem on any newer car,
its all electronic and FORT KNOX , tight.
The PCM runs that speedo and odemeter and are now not related
to the insides of the speedo head, like list 100 years. 1900 to now.
POWER TRAIN control MODULE, (old name ECU/ECM)
the PCM stores the miles and then sends them to the Cluster. via the comm bus. (sometimes the BCM is the middle man here) TIPM (Total Integrated Power Module)
the PCM also knows car speed, at all times, (VSS sensor)
and sends live speed data, full time to the head. so scan it.Not doing a scan is FAIL time. a NO WIN deal.
take a scan tool and scan it. see what errors you get.???????
Like VSS dead.? or comm bus errors?, or cluster module errors.?
that is first.
also on the newer cars 1998+? there is self test in the FSM.
the FSM is a book , (sold at dealers) and is factory service manual
and in said manual there are the self tests. (for sure)
only how , is a question !!!
you push buttons and key actions, then the CLUSTER does its a dance. it wags all gauges. etc.
if the speed dont wag the head is bad.
my 08 jeep, I can do this.
on older years, only the dealer scan tool DRB or? can only do that.
RTM , read the FSM or get it serviced.
there are only 2 choices, on cars now.
1 RTM or 2 get help.
You can not fix modern cars without this manual.
nor with out a scan tool. (I use Innova 3160 to cover jeeps)
my 08 FSM states: pg 1757 quote
Holding the odometer/trip odometer push button depressed while turning the ignition
switch from the OFF position to the ON position will initiate the CCN self-diagnostic actuator test.
now the full page
The instrument cluster actuator test will put the instrument cluster into its self-diagnostic mode. In this mode the
instrument cluster can perform a self-diagnostic test that will confirm that the instrument cluster circuitry, the
gauges and the indicators are capable of operating as designed. During the actuator test the instrument cluster
circuitry will position each of the gauge needles at various calibration points, illuminate each of the segments in
the Vacuum-Fluorescent Display (VFD) units, and turn all of the indicators ON and OFF again.
Successful completion of the actuator test will confirm that the instrument cluster is operational. However, there
may still be a problem with the CAN or LIN data bus, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), the Totally
Integrated Power Module (TIPM), the Controller Antilock Brake (CAB), the All-Wheel Drive Control Module
(AWDCM), the Occupant Restraint Controller (ORC), the compass module, the Sentry Key REmote Entry
Module (SKREEM) (also known as the Wireless Control Module/WCM), or the inputs to one of these
electronic control modules. Use a diagnostic scan tool to diagnose these components. Refer to the appropriate
1. Begin the test with the ignition switch in the OFF position.
2. Depress the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
3. While still holding the odometer/trip odometer switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the
ON position, but do not start the engine.
4. Release the odometer/trip odometer switch button.
5. The instrument cluster will simultaneously begin to illuminate all of the operational segments in the VFD
units, and perform a bulb check of each operational LED indicator. The VFD segments and LED
indicators remain illuminated as each gauge needle is swept to several calibration points and back. If a
VFD segment or an LED indicator fails to illuminate, or if a gauge needle fails to sweep through the
calibration points and back during this test, the instrument cluster must be replaced.
6. The actuator test is now completed. The instrument cluster will automatically exit the self-diagnostic
mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test. The actuator test will be aborted if the
ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, or if an electronic vehicle speed message indicating that the
vehicle is moving is received over the CAN data bus during the test.
7. Go back to step 1 to repeat the test, if necessary.
I am no Honda expert, but a similar problem happened to my ex sister in-laws Ford Taurus. The speed odometer would jump around and it had trouble shifting (automatic transmission). After driving it I changed out the speed odometer sensor on the transmission and it's been fine ever since. I changed out the sensor because if the cars computer cannot tell how fast the car is traveling then fail safes in place go into effect and the computer will do it's best to keep the cars rpm's down based on the speed indicator and not let it shift or shift properly either. If it's getting false speeds then it will shut down the motor when the speed gets to high and allow it to run as the speeds fall (jumping speed odometer needle). It effects the transmission shift points also. It will either shift erratically or not shift out of say 2nd gear, so that the cars engine can't get damaged based on what signal the speed sensor is sending the computer.
Slippage is a clutch problem that occurs when the pressure
plate is unable to hold the friction disc against the flywheel tightly
when the clutch is engaged. This causes the disc to rotate at a
different speed than the flywheel. The high temperature caused by
friction against the disc will eventually damage the clutch plate and
necessitate a replacement. On clutches with mechanical linkage,
adjustment can forestall replacement for a time.
If you notice the engine revving abnormally as the clutch is
released, and the car accelerates gradually, then it could be a slippage
problem. It's possible that grease or oil on the disc is causing the
slippage or the engine mount could be broken, causing the linkage to be
bound up by an improperly moving engine.
Another common cause of slippage is when the friction plate is simply
worn out from use. A clutch will not last forever, and over time the
clutch will begin slipping. Adjustments will not fix this problem, as a
worn out friction plate will require complete replacement.
A grabbing or chattering clutch is an indicator that there
is a problem inside the clutch mechanism. It is an easily noticed
problem. Symptoms include a vibration or jerking as the clutch is
released, especially when accelerating from a stop. This problem may be
the result of a damaged or broken disc, flywheel or pressure plate. It
may also be caused by loose springs or worn engine mounts, according to
the Integrated Publishing website on Clutch Troubleshooting.
The last time I felt vibration in the pedal like that I had a broken clutch finger. I would hate to tell you to take it all out again only to find no broken fingers. I've also seen vibration from improper mating of the friction disc and flywheel. It'll wear on the inside of the flywheel before it wears on the outside and thus you feel that as a vibration. But, it is most likely the clutch plate isn't balanced right. Just to be sure, take a look at the harmonic balancer to make sure it is still one piece and the rubber isn't coming out. It can dampen out most vibrations like this but can only do so much. But, if it is compromised in some way, even small vibrations can get through. Also, did you install a new pilot bushing when you did the clutch? Fixya is discontinuing this service soon and they say they have plans to come up with something new. I'm not supposed to share contact information here per terms of service, but there is no reason you can't Google 'ZX2Fast' now is there? If you need more help and can't get to me from here, just Google me and I'm sure you can find some way of asking for help. Oh yeah, you should also inspect all of your engine and transmission mounts. You would feel vibration if you have a broken mount and the engine/transmission was resting against metal.
Clean under needle plate where feed dogs are for lint
Clean bobbin area for lint or loose threads
Rethread machine top thread make sure to get every thread guide
& bobbin is threaded correctly & inserted in the bobbin case or shuttle correctly
Check tension 3 or 4 is usually good
after you try all this & it keeps jamming then it may need to be serviced
i had this problem last week at a customers house. first buy some thread loctite, then remove screw. put loctite on thread not 2 much, tighten back up. leave over night. should fix problem. please reply if u need more help. good luck