When shutting down throttle in gear, a heavy clonk is felt through transmission! chain and sprockets good.! thankyou.

Hi Kai:
The first things that I would check would be the drive sprocket and chain tension.

Are you sure it's oil and not gear lube?

Sometimes the seal behind the transmission drive sprocket/pulley goes bad. (I had this problem myself)

Next up could be a seal behind the engine crankshaft sprocket/pulley.

Finally if you have an oil line from the oil pump to lube the primary chain (which you no longer have), remove/plug the line.

IF PRESSING REMOTE TRANSMITTER LOCK BUTTON ONCE TO LOCK ALL DOORS DONT WORK.THE REMOTE HAS TO BE REPROGRAMMED AT DEALERSHIP.CLUNK NOISE GOING IN GEAR COULD BE LOOSE FRONT SUSPENSION COMPONENTS OR DAMAGED LOOSE ENGINE MOUNT OR TRANSMISSION MOUNT.CLUNK NOISE CAN COME FROM LOOSE DRIVE CHAIN ON TRANSMISSION DRIVE CHAIN SPROCKETS

The primary case is not marked. The book says that between 32 and 40 ounces of oil is to be used in the primary/transmission case. This oil lubricates both the primary chain and sprockets as well as all the gears in the transmission. The oil will not be visible inside the case. If it were, there would be too much oil and it would make the clutch "drag" making it impossible to find neutral with the engine running. The sprockets and chain are lubricated by a mist of oil generated by the starter ring gear on the outer clutch drum slinging the oil all in the primary case when the engine is running.

Some of the older Sportsters had a threaded hole with a screw in it towards the bottom of the forward end of the case. One would remove the screw and fill the primary until it started to run out of the hole.

Good Luck
Steve

Have you checked the front final drive chain sprocket. These sprockets are quite often neglected since they are so difficult to get to. You must pull the inner prirmary to get to it. The old four speed transmission is a tough ****** and I don't recall ever seeing one fail unless it was run with no oil. Check your final drive chain. Shine a flashlight behind the inner primary and check the teeth on front sprocket.

ok there is three sprockets one on the transmission a guide in the middle and onle on your back axle. take a wrench and loosen up the middle sprocket. slide it all the way back untill the chain is snug or tight. tighten up your bolt and it should notice it drives faster and thats how you keep it from falling off. hope it works for you

This one's a little tricky cause it could be a few things.
I'll try suggestions in the order of probability

• Worn out chain & sprockets.(Or chain too tight or has a tight spot) Check this by raising the rear wheel off the ground,in neutral & spin the back wheel. If the chain & or sprockets are worn you'll feel it & hear it when you spin the wheel. If it has a tight spot,set the chain tension at the tight spot & lubricate well
• Loose engine mounting bolts. If loose re- tighten.
• Worn front sprocket shaft bearing. to check this(if chain seems ok) Remove the chain(note joining link direction of the circlip. The closed end faces the direction of rotation)Bike in neutral, turn the sprocket shaft by hand. It should turn smoothly.If it is notchy thats not good. It is a major job to change & can be expensive(So i hope its the chain &/or sprockets)
• Broken tooth on a gear in the gearbox. I hope not as again a more difficult & expensive repair.

Hope this helps you narrow down your problem
Regards Andrew Porrelli

The transmission consists chain sprocket assembly, with the smaller sprocket on the engine & a larger one at the rear wheel. The chain stretches and the sprocket teeh keeps getting worn whenever you accellerate or use the engine as a brake to slow down. This play can increase up to 2 inch,. thus on lower gear, higher mechanical advantage, looses since the sprocket of the engine transfers power after that play/gap/time required to tranfer the same power to the rear sprocket result of metal on metal hammer.
Tighten chain at regular intervals and change the chain sprocket if its still the original one. If the bike runs 50+ km in a day and/or at high speed, change the engine oil every 500 to 750 km running i.e. once a month. Whichever comes first. The oil becomes darker & looses it's viscocity(thin). Also after covering so many kms, if the engine oil had been low for that period & running at a good speed you might require a change of piston rings( 1 oversize) and then filed to fit without jamming the piston.........sodeep

check the alignment of your rear wheel first and you may found that its not right and the chain is trying to jump the sprockets .

The clunking is the belt jthat moves the light is jumping the sprocket gear.
Solution - Unlock the scanner. About 1 inch below the right lid hinge near the USB jack is a fimmed piece of plastic. Slide this left or right to Lock/Unlock the scanner.