Question about 2005 Hyosung GT 650 S

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My alarm drained my battery charged it up is still currently chargeing but wont fire up just a ticking sound please help

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Hi and welcome to fixya,

The ticking can be caused by either poor battery charge or the carbon brush on the starter motor is worn out. Make sure that the battery has the correct charge or is fully charged before attempting to start. If you are in a hurry, you may keep pressing the starter button until it kicks in (well, this is if you're in a hurry). But for a more sure fix, you either check the battery, the carbon brush (on starter) or the relay switch (which makes the ticking sound)- the contacts may not hold enough conductivity to produce power needed by the starter motor.

Hope this info helps,
levibit

Posted on Jan 02, 2011

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There are several variables to what you are asking. First the alarm system has taken I'm going to say at least a month to drain the battery so it's just lifeless. Now you add a charger, is it a "battery tender" one that is to maintain a battery or an actual charger? Is the charger a trickle type or are you trying to fast charge it? How long has it been on charge? These are some of the variables to consider. Okay on the "positive" side so to speak IF your charger is a battery tender it may take several days before there is enough power in the battery to activate the starter, even then the starter may engage but take most of the power to turn the engine and leave nothing for the ignition to operate. The electronic ignitions on these motorcycles needs at least 10 volts to produce spark at the plug. You didn't say how long the charger was on the battery or how cold it is where the motorcycle is being stored. Somethings I would not do first is be in a hurry and cram a ton of charge in that battery all at once and expect it to survive. Is the battery frozen? A battery that is power less will freeze bulge the casing and break the plates inside resulting in an internal short which then will appear to be taking charge but return little or no power after sustained length on a charger. Motorcycle batteries are really small in comparison to a car battery they also deliver a lot less cranking amps so the charging should be relative to the battery size. If I was in your situation I would remove the battery set it on a flat wooden board connect about a 2 amp charger for several hours until it appeared to have some power then possibly up that to 4 amp. So not to give you faults hopes the battery may have a shorter life now after this ordeal. Sorry for both the good and bad news.

Posted on Jan 02, 2011

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Hi and welcome to FixYa,

The description "...series of clicks..." is significant. The battery is not putting out enough current to turn the starter motor. The best way to determine the battery condition is to have it load tested. However, considering eveything else, it would almost always be a failed or about to fail battery.

Incidentally, the alarm has been designed to have minimal current drain when in standby.

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I wrecked my 2005 Hyosung GT 650S last year, a person in an S.U.V. caused me to wreck and then left me there laying in the road. I am in the process of getting it back on the road and am having electrical problems. The small wire (14ga-16ga) black with white stripe, that goes to the negative battery terminal is getting hot only when bike is running. I can turn key on and it is fine but when bike is running it is getting around 18 amps at idle going through it, according to my Fluke amp clamp, I didn't raise the r.p.m.s during the test. I disconnected my rectifier/regulator and it drops to around 1.5 amps. I disconnected the DC plug on my rectifier/regulator and made a jumper, routing the red positive dc wire to where it would normally go and routing the negative dc wire directly to negative post on my battery, when I started the bike I had 18 amps going through the jumper wire I made from the dc negative on the regulator to the negative battery post. I made an auxiliary ground strap for the regulator housing and that didn't help so I assumed my regulator/rectifier was bad and ordered a new one. I installed the new regulator/rectifier and while the amperage has gone down to around 8.5 amps at idle it is still too high, raising to 15 amps at only 5000 r.p.m.s. My stator output is around 20 AC volts at idle and around 100 AC volts at 9000 r.p.m.s. I think it is the stator because if I unplug my regulator or stator the amperage immediately drops and I can't believe the new regulator I installed is failing in the same manner unless there is another problem causing it to fail. Other than that wire getting hot my charging system is working normally, approx 13.5 DC volts at battery. I also tried a different battery thinking maybe it had been internally damaged in the wreck. Everything electrical that was damaged in the wreck has been replaced, like my headlight and turn signals. Any advice on what to check would be appreciated.

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