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Can't find ignition switch on 1974 bmw r90/6 bike.

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Hi did you manage to find the ignition switch, normaly this will be on the l/hand side of the headlight http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BR65yto0b2U

Posted on Jan 01, 2011

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Hi, Shaun and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Bank angle sensor tripped and ignition/light key switch not cycled to the "OFF" position and then back to the "ON" position.
5. Security alarm needs a reset.
6. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Electric starter shaft pinion gear is not engaging or over-running starter clutch slipping.
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My bike runs sometimes but often will not start , when I press the ignition button a buzzing noise comes out o the headlight and bike will not start, other days it runs fine 1984 100 r


Hi, Richard and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Bank angle sensor tripped and ignition/light key switch not cycled to the "OFF" position and then back to the "ON" position.
5. Security alarm needs a reset.
6. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Electric starter shaft pinion gear is not engaging or over-running starter clutch slipping.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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Put my bmw k 1200 lt into reverse today and it started to move without me pressing the starter button. then when the bike was in forward gear it cut out at a set of trafic lights...any suggestions? th


Hi, Martin the following applies to carbureted also fuel injected models and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, 9 volts or lower.
2. Faulty alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Faulty main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.
5. Faulty system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.
6. Faulty ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
7. Faulty CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, O2, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
8. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.
9. . Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
10. Fuel tank empty.
11. The gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.
12. A faulty Fuel Pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
13. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.
14. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.
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Did your bike quit whilst it was running, or is the problem that it won't turn over on the starter when you try to start it?Position 1 of the ignition switch should allow the starter to be operated and the engine to fire up. Position 2 is for parking lights only. The ignition switch can suffer poor internal contacts with age. It may have been replaced with the wrong type of switch if you say it turns over in position 2. Have you checked the fuses? If they are OK, try bypassing the ignition switch completely.If you are running the original ignition, the control box under the tank can fail. Check that there is a spark on all three plugs. THEY ALL MUST BE KEPT EARTHED when turning the engine over to avoid destroying the ignition module.

Apr 10, 2012 | 1974 Laverda 1000 3C

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1976 r750/6 The bike loses all electrical power. from 1 - 24 hours later it comes back.


Hi, Larsandjudy and the usual suspects are:
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Bank angle sensor tripped and ignition/light key switch not cycled to the "OFF" position and then back to the "ON" position.
5. Security alarm needs a reset.
6. Starter control circuit, relay, or solenoid faulty.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Electric starter shaft pinion gear is not engaging or over-running starter clutch slipping.
For more information about your issue, please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice a day.
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May 27, 2011 | 1976 BMW R 75-7

1 Answer

Hi, Here is my problem with my BMW R1200C. I wanted to start the bike in a cold winter morning ( I had used the bike 2 days before without problems) but when I pushed the ignition button, the bike...


Hi T_mutis, it should be noted that in order to "PROPERLY" diagnosis any electric starter issue it is "IMPERATIVE" that you begin with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a proper load test, and the usual suspects are:
1. Battery terminals have loose or corroded connections.
2. Battery cables faulty due corroded or broken internal wiring at the cable connector especially the "NEGATIVE" cable which needs to be checked at "BOTH" ends.
3. Battery voltage, 12.5 volts or better,to the main circuit breaker to the ignition switch to the security/ignition fuse to the TSM/TSSM module to the engine stop/run switch to the starter button to the starter relay to the green wire that connects to the starter solenoid has dropped more than 1/2 volt.
4. With a voltmeter connected to the battery, the ignition switch in the on position, the kill switch in the run position, the starter button depressed, starter engagement should not bring voltage below 8-9 volts.
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5. Faulty starter relay, check continuity.
6. Faulty starter solenoid, check contact plate and shoes for excessive electrical erosion/etching, refurbish as necessary or invert contact plate and use the virgin backside. Check contact shoes for being loose. Replace solenoid if the negative function is still a final outcome.
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Hi, Madelene before testing any electrical component in the Starting System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Ignition Switch not in the "ON" position.
2. Engine Run Switch in the "OFF" position.
3. Check the battery terminals for damage or corrosion check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter.
4. Bank angle sensor needs a reset or is faulty.
5. FOB battery low or dead.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Faulty starter button.
8. Faulty kickstand, clutch, neutral safety switch.
9. Security alarm needs a reset.
10. Starter relay, solenoid, starter have failed or circuit wiring faulty.
11. Starter armature or field coils have failed.
12. Main fuse or circuit breaker may be blown or faulty.
13. The electric starter is working but starter clutch has failed.
14. Check for engine trouble codes.
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