Question about 1998 Honda XR 400R

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My 98 xr400 will not start. It seams to be flooded but it doesn,t even sputter if I don't move the choke at all. If I put the choke on half open it almost starts but then I think it floods. I changed the spark plug and the gas. Where should I start troubleshooting?

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Check to see if you have spark. Put a plug in the cap and touch the cylinder , kick it over to see if the plug is sparking. I kick mine 2 or 3 times to prime the cylinder holding decompression lever in. If it pops on full choke but does not start I go to half choke. If it does not start after 3 or 4 kicks , then I turn off the choke and kick it over 5 or 6 times with the decompression lever pulled to clear it. Then I will kick with no choke or half choke. Honda's are notorious for being cold blooded so when it starts let it warm up and do not be afraid to drive a short distance on half choke till the motor warms up a little.
When the machine is hard to start after sitting I usually start by removing the carburetor and shooting carburetor cleaner through the jets and passageways.I have always found my 96 xr400 to be a dependable starter with fresh gas and a clean carburetor. If it is flooded use the decompression lever to clear the cylinder.

Posted on Dec 31, 2010

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No floats in chainsaw carbs. Severly flooded most common start problem with chainsaws. Read and follow the start procedure in your manual. Don't use choke on flooded engine (may set fast idle, set then turn off)!
Extreme Flooding by Dolfoff
Please follow this link, http://www.fixya.com/support/t3226410-no_spark_new_plug_but_continues_flood cursor down to “Best Solution”, while there click the “Was this helpful? [Yes]” button
Start Procedure
Cold:
  1. Ignition on/off to on
  2. Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
  3. Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls)
  4. Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
  5. Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Warm:
  1. Ignition on/off to on
  2. Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
  3. Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) - Don’t pull with choke closed.
  4. Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Hope this helps
Lou

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Please follow this link, http://www.fixya.com/support/t3226410-no_spark_new_plug_but_continues_flood cursor down to “Best Solution”, while there click the “Was this helpful? [Yes]” button HTH
Lou
OPEN THE CHOKE
Start Procedure
Cold:
  1. Ignition on/off to on
  2. Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
  3. Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and LISTEN for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls)
  4. Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
  5. Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Warm:
  1. Ignition on/off to on
  2. Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
  3. Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) - Don’t pull with choke closed.
  4. Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Hope this helps
Lou

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1 Answer

Have 16" Poulan pro that after 10 hrs will not start -- not even close. Pulled my guts out on the rope


It’s possible the ignition module has gone bad do this first. If it’s good and the saw will start it may quit when it gets hot. I don’t think that is true but keep it mind. If it does suddenly just quit running, immediately test the coil before it can cool.
Ignition Coil Test
SmallEng.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7WNBDRG4C4
You may need to use a jumper wire between the threaded part of the plug and the cooling fins. You don’t have to bend up the electrode.

You refueled it and it wouldn’t start? Any chance you put straight gas in it?
Was this saw perhaps operated without oil mixed with the fuel?
· Remove the spark plug wire and plug.
· Remove the muffler, hold a light at the plug hole and inspect the cylinder through the exhaust port. Is it smooth and shiny or does it appear speckled with dull gray spots or smears?
· Pull the starter slowly, inspect the piston as it rises and falls. Is it a dull gray without scratches and gouges?
· Hold the light at the exhaust port and inspect the cylinder, above the exhaust port, through the spark plug hole. Is it shiny and smooth or speckled with gray spots or smears?
Any spots or smears on the cylinder or deep scratches and gouges in the piston indicate the saw was operated in a lean condition. Repair of this on a home owner quality saw often exceeds replacement cost. A repair estimate by the independent saw shop should be considered.

It might be a bad fuel vent? Not likely if you just refueled, more likely if it staves after running for a few minutes. Loosen fuel cap when it starts to sputter (rotate saw if necessary) if it picks up again bad vent.

Most likely it was flooded. A flooded saw can be extremely difficult to restart. Did you try to choke a hot saw? That is almost guaranteed to cause it to flood.
Start Procedure
Cold:
  1. Ignition on/off to on
  2. Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
  3. Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls, if not heard after 6 pulls stop! Something is wrong)
  4. Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
  5. Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Warm:
  1. Ignition on/off to on
  2. Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
  3. Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) - Don’t pull with choke closed.
  4. Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Hope this helps
Lou

If it was flooded it should start easily if it has been sitting for a couple of days. It could still be coil or vent problem.

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Husqvarna says the initial carburetor needle valve settings are from lightly seated 1 turn CCW for both H & L.

Your Operator's Manual can be downloaded here:
http://weborder.husqvarna.com/order_static/doc/HOUS/HOUS2004/HOUS2004_1140204-95.pdf
Once flooded Huskys are very hard to start. This works well on my 359.
Start Procedure
Cold:
  1. Ignition on/off to on
  2. Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
  3. Pull (close - sets fast idle) pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls)
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Warm:
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  3. Pull (close - sets fast idle) choke, - Don’t pull with choke closed.
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I think you are saying it sputters but won't run. Once it attempts to fire open the choke or it may flood. My 359 start:
Cold: pull out choke control, pull starter (usually twice) while listening for attempt to start. Once it fires push choke control in and
continue pulling (usually once more).
Warm: pull out choke control (sets fast idle), push choke control in, pull starter.
Page 19 of my manual.
Lou
Once flooded these are a bear to start.

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