Question about kawasaki Z1 Motorcycles
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: battery life
the part is called a stattor or statter but it should be a black box with raised lovers on it attached to out side of bike usually in the front with 2 or 3 wires coming from it to a plug then the wires going into the engine.Check the plug for fit and cleaness or Change that box if that doesn't work it's internal. take it to a dealer or independent and have repaired
Posted on Jan 31, 2009
SOURCE: overcharging battery!?
If it goes over 17 then there is definitely a regulator fault, regardless of what the stator is doing. The very purpose of the regulator (it 'regulates' the voltage within limits) is to NOT allow the output dc voltage to climb when the stator output rises (normal) with increased engine rpm. In other words - by nature of way it works normally, the stator AC output Voltage will rise as the engine rpm increases - it will continue to rise all the way to peak engine rpm. The Rectifier/ regulator with its double-barrel name performs two functions: the first - rectifier - converts the AC output of the Stator to DC volts - if 'UN-regulated' the DC volts would also climb proportionally to engine rpm. But that is where the second function of the Rectifier/Regulator - the Regulator - comes in. The Regulator's job is to stop the voltage rising over a certain threshold even if the stator is trying to drive it higher. It does this by 'shunting' current to ground (short circuit effectively) in a series of pulses; this controlled operation is called regulation. The limit is going to be 15V absolute max and more typically 14.5 or so. If the output rises about this value then it absolutely is NOT regulating. Failures of the regulator where they simply don't regulate and allow full voltage to pass are rare (but not impossible) - much more likely to be short or open circuit, neither or which would give the symptom you have. It still sounds almost like you maybe wired it incorrectly? The stator is inside the left crancase cover - whether or not it has its own problems, have nothing to do with the lack of regulation causing battery volts to go to 17V.
Posted on Nov 10, 2008
SOURCE: Starter dragging problem
You added an extra ground but did nothing with the positive cable. It's time to replace that one, possibly using better quality cable then stock.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
hi from the uk if you look at startermotor solenoid you will see two large threaded terminals with nuts? and a third small terminal either spade or round terminal ok? now you should see thet one of large terminals already has a metal or braides strap secured to it and the actual startermotor body? LEAVE THIS ALONE the other large terminal is the one you fit the positive+ lead to from battery also there should be another lead to also attach to same terminal this one supplies power for vehicles electrics etc ensure you secure these with nut ok? now the third small spade or post terminal you will hav a thin wire nearby ?this attaches to thisterminal on its own on solenoid this wire is the one that activates starter when ignition is turned to key start position ok? as for interior light not working ? try again when you complete the above also make sure bulb is ok? ps! before you reconnect starter wires ensure the earth/ground lead is disconnected from battery and when reconnecting battery connect positive lead first then the earth lead or if you try other way you will have sparking from pos lead as you try connecting to battery hope this info is clear instructios for you to follow and wish you luck best wishes from england
Posted on Nov 26, 2008
SOURCE: Starter dragging problem
Two things come to mind, other than an internal problem with the starter. Diconnect the battery and take the small cover off the solenoid. pull the plunger and spring out and check the 2 internal contacts and the copper washer on the plunger for a badly burned or worn condition. Rebuild kits are available for some models. If not, you can dress up the contacts and the washer. Push the plunger in by hand and see that it hits both contacts at the same time.
Another possibility is the starter clutch. Usually when these fail the starter spins without turning the engine over, but I have seen them cause the symptom you described. Replacement involves removing the starter and dissasembly of the drive end of the starter, but since you were savvy enough to take the initial steps you mentioned, I know you can handle it.
Posted on Dec 25, 2008
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