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I need a wiring diagam for a 2510 mule. MOtor died due to battery going dead. replaced starter, solenoid and battery. suspect regulator bad as well. can't get any power to starter soleni\oid now. can't find a wiring diagram to foolow wires.

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: battery life

the part is called a stattor or statter but it should be a black box with raised lovers on it attached to out side of bike usually in the front with 2 or 3 wires coming from it to a plug then the wires going into the engine.Check the plug for fit and cleaness or Change that box if that doesn't work it's internal. take it to a dealer or independent and have repaired

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

  • 2336 Answers

SOURCE: overcharging battery!?

If it goes over 17 then there is definitely a regulator fault, regardless of what the stator is doing. The very purpose of the regulator (it 'regulates' the voltage within limits) is to NOT allow the output dc voltage to climb when the stator output rises (normal) with increased engine rpm. In other words - by nature of way it works normally, the stator AC output Voltage will rise as the engine rpm increases - it will continue to rise all the way to peak engine rpm. The Rectifier/ regulator with its double-barrel name performs two functions: the first - rectifier - converts the AC output of the Stator to DC volts - if 'UN-regulated' the DC volts would also climb proportionally to engine rpm. But that is where the second function of the Rectifier/Regulator - the Regulator - comes in. The Regulator's job is to stop the voltage rising over a certain threshold even if the stator is trying to drive it higher. It does this by 'shunting' current to ground (short circuit effectively) in a series of pulses; this controlled operation is called regulation. The limit is going to be 15V absolute max and more typically 14.5 or so. If the output rises about this value then it absolutely is NOT regulating. Failures of the regulator where they simply don't regulate and allow full voltage to pass are rare (but not impossible) - much more likely to be short or open circuit, neither or which would give the symptom you have. It still sounds almost like you maybe wired it incorrectly? The stator is inside the left crancase cover - whether or not it has its own problems, have nothing to do with the lack of regulation causing battery volts to go to 17V.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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SOURCE: Starter dragging problem

You added an extra ground but did nothing with the positive cable. It's time to replace that one, possibly using better quality cable then stock.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

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SOURCE: hooking up wires to battery, solenoid, altornater and starter

hi from the uk if you look at startermotor solenoid you will see two large threaded terminals with nuts? and a third small terminal either spade or round terminal ok? now you should see thet one of large terminals already has a metal or braides strap secured to it and the actual startermotor body? LEAVE THIS ALONE the other large terminal is the one you fit the positive+ lead to from battery also there should be another lead to also attach to same terminal this one supplies power for vehicles electrics etc ensure you secure these with nut ok? now the third small spade or post terminal you will hav a thin wire nearby ?this attaches to thisterminal on its own on solenoid this wire is the one that activates starter when ignition is turned to key start position ok? as for interior light not working ? try again when you complete the above also make sure bulb is ok? ps! before you reconnect starter wires ensure the earth/ground lead is disconnected from battery and when reconnecting battery connect positive lead first then the earth lead or if you try other way you will have sparking from pos lead as you try connecting to battery hope this info is clear instructios for you to follow and wish you luck best wishes from england

Posted on Nov 26, 2008

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SOURCE: Starter dragging problem

Two things come to mind, other than an internal problem with the starter. Diconnect the battery and take the small cover off the solenoid. pull the plunger and spring out and check the 2 internal contacts and the copper washer on the plunger for a badly burned or worn condition. Rebuild kits are available for some models. If not, you can dress up the contacts and the washer. Push the plunger in by hand and see that it hits both contacts at the same time.
Another possibility is the starter clutch. Usually when these fail the starter spins without turning the engine over, but I have seen them cause the symptom you described. Replacement involves removing the starter and dissasembly of the drive end of the starter, but since you were savvy enough to take the initial steps you mentioned, I know you can handle it.

Posted on Dec 25, 2008

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Cut car off now its doin nothing won't click won't do anything

The first thing to check is the battery. Turn on the inside dome light. If it fails to light, then check the battery itself for voltage. If it is totally dead, then have the charging system checked. The battery seldom dies completely unless there is a bigger issue, such as a bad alternator. If the dome light works, with it on, try turning the key to the start position. One of three things should happen.

1. The light goes completely out, and nothing else happens. This may still be a battery issue. The starter requires a considerable amount of current to activate, and a dead battery will prevent this. The car would cut off once the battery voltage drains below approximately 8 volts.

2. The light stays the same brightness. This would mean that the starter circuit is malfunctioning, since the current needed to start the car should make the light dim slightly during cranking.

3. The light dims slightly. If this occurs without any other indications, it could be a bad starter. Usually the solenoid kicks in, engaging the starter to the flywheel. This action starts the starter motor turning. If there is some issue with the starter solenoid, it could be trying to engage, but not successfully.

Of the three issues above, my best guess would be #1. You my have had a bad alternator or regulator diode and discharged the battery below the level to operate the vehicle. The battery may be able to be recharged, but its life would be shortened considerably. The real issue is to fix the charging problem. This is usually an alternator or regulator (if the regulator is separate from the alternator).

Oct 22, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have a 1976 jeep j10. I have replaced the starter, starter solenoid, ignition module, both battery cables(positive,negative), cable from starter to starter solenoid, coil, cap and rotar. it will click...

Could be: a) starter cannot turn the motor flywheel (motor frozen or jammed)
or b) the battery is weak (not enough power to crank the motor)

Turn the dome light on and see if it is bright, see if light diminishes completely when engaging starter (high current drawn by starter).

Try to turn engine by pulling the alternator belt with transmission in neutral to see if motor is jammed. Or engage in a high gear and push the car and see if motor turns.

If motor is not frozen, jump and boost the battery if you suspect weak battery and see if you have the same problem.

Jun 29, 2014 | Jeep J10 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Go kart will not start, when you turn the ignition on it just clicks. THe starter and starter relay solenoid have been replaced. The wire coming from the solenoid to start is extremely hot after trying o...

It sounds like you have electric start like a lawn mower. There are 2 possible reasons for the cable to be getting hot-1 there is a dead short in your starter motor- check this with a volt ohm meter. set to ohm disconnect the fat positive wire on the starter and touch the terminal and then ground-should read 1-no continiuty-no short or if shorted will read 0.00. #2 motor is stuck and starter motor can't move it. If you can turn the motor over by hand to see if its stuck. I suspect your starter motor is bad. Hope this helps-Denny

Oct 04, 2013 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

My 1999 toyota camry wont start it clicks thats all

That's typical of a low battery. It has enough charge to pull down the starter solenoid (the click) but not enough to crank the engine.

Another possibility is that the starter main contacts are worn down enough so that the solenoid can't bridge them to turn the starter. This usually begins as an intermittent fault and then gets more common.

Then it could be that the voltage regulator built in to the alternator has failed, causing the battery to go flat. To diagnose this you really need a high current ammeter to measure its output.

A crude test is to turn the lights on high beam and hit the starter. If the lights then die, it is the battery. If not, suspect either the starter contacts or the voltage regulator.

If the battery is anything like 3-4 yrs old, it is probably dead.

Feb 10, 2013 | 2001 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

Starter wont engage after replacing dead battery

Check power to starter motor solenoid, solenoid operation and starter motor voltage during cranking. If the starter motor is receiving power from the solenoid, but isn't cranking, then replace the starter motor.

Also check the condition of battery terminals, wiring and connections. Also check the earth wire from the body to the engine.

Nov 12, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Starter just clicking

It clicks repeatedly while holding the key in Start, or just clicks once?
Sounds like the solenoid for the starter is kicking in, hence the click noise, but the starter itself is either stuck or dead.


May 17, 2017 | 2003 Lincoln Aviator

1 Answer

2004 Mini Cooper automatic.Car won't turn over. Battery indicating 14 volts using multi-meter. I get a single click when I turn the key, then nothing. I suspect bad solenoid. Not sure how to test/check...

if the clicking noise is from the starter,you can tap the starter while someone tries to start the car.if it turns over and starts then the starter motor will need to be replaced.if you can get to the starter,using the multi-meter you can check to make sure the solenoid is getting battery voltage at the wire that gets voltage when the key is turned.if you do and you have battery voltage at the larger wire on the starter then this will also indicate the stater motor has a bad spot in it and will have to be replaced.the clicking noise is usually an indication that the solenoid is working passing the voltage to the starter armature but the starter is drawing too much amperage to turn the motor over.either way its recommended to replace the complete unit as if the solenoid is bad the motor itself will usually go bad shortly after.

Jul 30, 2011 | 2004 Mini Cooper

2 Answers

I have a 1991 Pontiac Firebird and I parked it in the driveway Sunday night and went to start it the next morning to leave and it didn't do anything. The battery is not dead, my volt gauge was reading a...

You either have a bad starter or ignigtion switch. When you turn the key on does everything else come on? I would check the starter first if you have power to everything.

Mar 16, 2011 | 1991 Pontiac Firebird

3 Answers

When i try to turn on my car it dont start all i here is a clicking sound

Replace the battery! If the battery is good then your starter might be bad, or the wiring up to the starter.
More then likely it is your battery though.

Mar 14, 2011 | Mercury Grand Marquis Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Battery life

the part is called a stattor or statter but it should be a black box with raised lovers on it attached to out side of bike usually in the front with 2 or 3 wires coming from it to a plug then the wires going into the engine.Check the plug for fit and cleaness or Change that box if that doesn't work it's internal. take it to a dealer or independent and have repaired

Jan 31, 2009 | 1999 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

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