Question about 1996 Suzuki RGV 250 SP

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Looking for 2 pistons ,2 cylinder for rgv250 1996.also gaskets for crank.

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Hi, give this shop a call. if you are uk basedthey should be able to help you, hope you get the parts you need , paul

Posted on Dec 30, 2010


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no year? Jeep? one post, and no year.
is this WG jeep say in europe. ? we dont have WG here.
WG started in Europe in 1999.
on this usa forum or in our country no 3.1 VM diesels
i do have your FSM book.
and here is what it states. (different liners used etc)
A one piece steel cylinder head gasket is used for
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Cylinder head gaskets are available in three thicknesses.
Identification holes or notches in the right
front corner of the gasket indicate the thickness of
the gasket (Fig. 65).
CAUTION: Piston protrusion must be measured, to
determine cylinder head gasket thickness, if one or
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NOTE: If cylinder wall liners have not been
removed; the same thickness head gasket removed,
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(1) Use special tool VM.1010 with dial indicator
special tool VM.1013 (Fig. 66).
(2) Bring the piston of cylinder no. 1 exactly to top
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(3) Zero the dial indicator on the cylinder block
mating surface.
(4) Setup the dial indicator on the piston crown
(above the center of the piston pin) 5mm (1/8 in.)
from the edge of the piston and note the measurement
(Fig. 67).
(5) Repeat the procedure with the rest of the cylinders.
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buy the book,end all guessing?


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On ford rocam 4 piston no combustion...could it be if your crank is slightly bend

Hi,If there is no compresion on number 4 cylinder there can be a few resones,If its only the 4th cylinder and timing is ok.
number could be a head gasket that is damidged, number could be warn or broken piston rings, number could be that one of the inlet or outlet valves could be bent or the valve seat are worn.
I hope this has been some help,all the best.

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Compression cylinder low #2 and #3 cylinders.

there are only four possibilities left:
1: valves are not fully seating - adjust rocker arm / cam
2: piston rings are bad - replace rings
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4: cylinders out of round - most complicated repair, bore / machine cylinders and replace piston rings with oversized rings.

of course you could just have 'gunk' on the valves preventing full closure........

Jul 23, 2014 | 2001 Hyundai Tiburon

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I have no compression in cylinder 1 it has only 15 pd of pressure but it doesn't smoke

Do a cylinder leak down test

Still nothing ,the valves are worn,head comes off

Compression does not tell you if a valve seals properly,
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Rod knock

1. Rods connects to crankshaft and pistons.
2.Crank access is under car through oil pan removal.
3.Piston is romoved after step 2 through top of engine after cylinder head removal.
4. This is simplified explanation, you need to get head and pan gaskets, a gallon of oil, piston ring compression tool, knowledge of engine components and timing procedures etc...
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Aug 27, 2012 | 2003 Chevrolet Impala

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I have Bostich CAP2040-OF compressor that initially would not shut off after building pressure. I would let it build up until the needed pressure then shut it off for use then turn it back on etc. Now...

You could have a combination of both, but most likely worn cylinder. Easy to check. Remove cover, with compressor running spray soapy water on all fittings including under pressure switch. Repair as needed. If no leaks, unplug compresor from power and turn crank until piston is at top of stroke. Look for scratches / worn area close to top of cylinder. If worn, replace cylinder / piston ring (pressure is leaking past cylinder/ring). If it looks ok, then most likely problem is head gasket or reed valves. Parts are available at Good luck!

Feb 10, 2011 | Stanley Air Tools & Compressors

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I have a 1986 yamaha 540 srv snomombile and when i throtle it up it bogs out and pops like a backfire do you have a suggestion on what is causing this and how to correct it?

You should purchase a gasket and seal set, pull your motor out of the sled, disassemble the motor, and replace all the gaskets and seals. You can purchase a piston kit on line that should come with pistons , rings , gaskets , and seals.The main problem you are having is an air leak on one or both of the crank end seals. Usually the clutch side seal leaks first. If you continue to drive you will probably score one or both of the cylinders.When you have the motor apart clean your carburetors and replace your spark plug caps. NGK has new plug caps for about $5 each. If your cylinders look good i would consider doing a light hone job and ring replacement. Again if you just buy new aftermarket seals pistons and gaskets you should be able to do a complete rebuild for about $150. Then your engine will be good for another 25 years. If you are limited on funds Just replace the crank seals , clean the carburetors, and put on new NGK plug caps (about $30).

Jan 18, 2011 | Yamaha SR 400 Motorcycles

1 Answer

Top end repair: After all is removed and replaced, how do I reinstall the piston into the cylinder? What are torque specs for cyl? Inch or ft. lbs?

You will want to install the piston onto the crank before you install the cylinder and head. With the head and cylinder off, the crank rod will be exposed. Put some shop towels around the crank rod before you start to avoid dropping any small parts into your lower end while you replace the piston. Your new piston kit should come with: (1) piston, (2) circlips,(1) wrist pin and (1 or 2) rings depending on the bike. Also it is suggested that you should replace the wrist pin bearing as well (usually sold seperately). If you have not removed the existing piston you will need to remove one of the circlips from the side of the piston. Do this by using a small screwdriver in the teardrop hole where the wristpin attaches the piston to the crank. Then push the wristpin through the piston from the side that still has a circlip through the side that it has been removed from. Once the wristpin is out, the piston will pull straight up off the crank and the wristpin bearing will slide out of the crank rod. Before installing your new parts you will want to have some 2-Stroke oil on hand. Lube up the wrist pin bearing with 2-stroke oil and slide it into the crank rod. Install ONE of the circlips into the piston before connecting it to the bike. Do this in a clean area because these things like to jump out when you're trying to put them in. BE SURE IT SEATS FULLY INTO ITS GROOVE. Once ONE circlip is in, slide the piston over the crank rod WITH THE ARROW ON THE TOP OF THE PISTON FACING THE EXHAUST!! so the wrist pin hole lines up with the wrist pin bearings. Lube the wrist pin and slide it into the piston from the side with out the circlip, through the wrist pin bearing until it seats against the circlip installed on the opposite side. Install the second circlip and MAKE SURE IT SEATS FULLY INTO ITS GROOVE. Install the rings onto the piston. (Some OEM rings have a flat side and a sloped side be sure to match the piston you have removed) Notice that there are tiny notches in the rings that must line up with nipples in the ring seats. This is the only way the cylinder will slide on properly. Next, put a thin coat of oil on the cylinder walls, remove the shop towels, and put on the cylinder base gasket. Now, with one hand, pinch the rings tight to the ring seats making sure the nipples in the ring seats sit in the notches of the rings. With the other hand, slide the cylinder over the piston. THIS SHOULD SLIDE DOWN EASILY! If not, remove the cylinder, verify the rings are properly seating in the ring seats and try again. Once the cylinder is on install the base nuts. If you can get a torque wrench on the cylinder base nuts tighten down to manufacture spec's (24 ft lbs) Usually you can not get a torque wrench on the base nuts because the cylinder walls are in the way so I give it a german torque "goot-n-tite" (good and tight). Next put the head gasket on and the head gasket, and tighten down finger tight. Do this in a criss cross pattern, starting off with hand tight, then 3 or 4 steps until reaching the manufacture spec (18 ft.lbs). Put the plug in and you should be ready to go. Be sure to break in properly by running 3 heat cycles through the enging. From fully cooled, start the bike and ride it using NO MORE THAN 1/2 throttle until it reaches full temp. keeping the RPM's varying. Let cool COMPLETELY. Second heat cycle, same thing except use up to 3/4 throttle. Cool COMPLETLY AGAIN. Third heat cycle ride up to full throttle. Be sure to keep the RPM's varying in all heat cycles. No long runs at the same RPM level. Here is where I got the specs for the cylinder and head torque settings so you may want to call a local shop and verify.

Oct 11, 2009 | 2003 Suzuki RM 125

1 Answer

Cant start my 2004 80 ws raptor

Most likely, the head gasket is blown.
Check the compression on all cylinders that you can reach.
Compare results. If 2 adjacent cylinders have low compression, then that's the head with the blown gasket.

Hope this helps!

Sep 08, 2009 | 2004 Dodge Ram 1500

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