Question about Harley Davidson FXDWG Dyna Wide Glide Motorcycles

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I have a 1997 FXDWG with a 124" S and S with compression releases. When I have 13 volts the bike will start. When it drops down around 12.5 to 12.6 it only has one chance to start then the starter starts clicking. My question is does the regulator/rectifier have something to do with this issue. I have a brand new Harley AGM battery. It seems to drain quickly and then NO START.

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I wouldn't think your problem be with the voltage regulator if the battery is being charged to 13 volts. The problem seems to be too big and engine with too small a battery. You have increased the size of your engine by quite a bit but you still run the same standard battery. Even with compression releases, you're turning a larger displacement engine. You need a battery that has a higher CCA rating (cold cranking amps). You may need to go to a "Big Boar" or "Odessy" battery. Twelve volts should be enough voltage but the current is the question.

Do this. With a fully charged battery, put the voltmeter across the battery. Read the voltage WHILE you start the bike. Does the voltage drop below twelve volts. If so, the battery is the problem. If not, the problem is somewhere else, maybe you need a stronger starter like a Spyke or something.

Good Luck
Steve

Posted on Dec 29, 2010

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Charles, What is the voltage of the battery without the motor running? What does the voltage go to when trying to start the bike? Once the bike is started what is the voltage?

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If you battery had a standard reading of 11.5 volts that drops down to .5 volts when you put load on the battery, your battery has gone bad. A healthy battery will give you a static reading of around 12.6 volts, and that will drop to about 12 volts when you're starting the bike. Conversely, when the bike is running, you should see 13.5-14.5 volts across the battery terminals. That shows that the alternator is charging and that the battery is good.

I have a vehicle with a battery going south. I have a static voltage of 12.16 volts, and I only get about 13.2 volts across the terminal when the car is running and the alternator is charging the battery. Soon, it will be time to change out the battery.

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and a few tools to get to your battery. check your battery before you start your bike it should be at 12 volts or right near +/- now start the bike and check you charge at idle, 13 volts +/- now rev your bike or have a buddy do it for you, you get around 14 volts. it your volts drop when you rev the bike or at any time while the bike is running your charging system is shot. your charging system is three thing 1 stator, this is what makes the electricity (a/c) the next in line is the regulator rectifier this takes the a/c and converts into d/c. electricity can only be made in a/c and can only be stored in d/c, it also regulates it to 14.5. the third is of course the battery. if any part is not working right the whole thing fails. while your at there at your battery pull it out and do a load test on it, if you dont have a load tester your local parts store or bike shop should.
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Ok, it sounds like the proverbial "bad battery" to me. Although you say you measure 12 amp (I think you actually mean volts here) this doesn't tell you the condition of the battery. You can take a 9 volt battery that will not run the device it's in and measure it with a volt meter and it will measure 9 volts most of the time. Now, when you put a load on that battery, the voltage drops to almost nothing. This is because your volt meter cannot "load the battery. The same happens with your bike's battery.

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