2004 Yamaha WR 250 F Logo

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Posted on Sep 19, 2017

Just got the bike and i was told that it has a short air fuel mixture screw... and it cuts out after i jump it or sometimes when you gas it, it seems like its too much air and not enough gas... and after its hot, it only starts when its choked... so i was wondering what the stock setting is so i can make sure to put it back to stock before i start messing with it

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Don Parker

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  • Contributor 11 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 19, 2017
Don Parker
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Joined: Sep 20, 2009
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15:1 fuel air ratio is considered best in most applications. Too lean runs hot, too rich fouls.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Apr 05, 2009

SOURCE: hard to start yz250 dirt bike 2001 4stroke

i used to own a yz426f and it had the exact problem... a fresh plug will fix your problem. change the plug and the bike will run great. also don't start the bike and shut it off , my bike would be fine if i started it and rode for a while getting to the proper heat range help save the plug. if my bike didn't start in one or two kicks it was usually the plug.



hope this helps

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Anonymous

  • 8 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 27, 2009

SOURCE: My FZR600 won't start. No mods, all stock. I got

it is possible that th eplugs might be fouled but it seems unlikely after only two weeks running-my fzr would foul plugs but it usually takes months not weeks-also the engine would start but run on2 or 3 cyls. I found using one heat range hotter than standard plugs helped,esp. around town you seem to have been fairly methodical on your troubleshooting-if you have fuel and spark the next thing to check is comp. -if the plugs are wet it is likely fuel not oil-when I first bought mine it had sat over winter and would not start -it turned out that the valve clearances had closed up enough that it was low on comp. when ridden frequently it was ok but as soon as the oil had drained off the cyl walls it would not start-squirting oil in the cyls. would get it started but I pulled the cams and set valves to solve problem-starts ok now but I don't use the choke-you could lift the cover and check your valve clearances -it would be a good idea on a bike that you just bought-don't give up -be methodical and check one thing at a time-when you get it going it will be worht it

Anonymous

  • 2050 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 29, 2009

SOURCE: Mixture screw on Carb

I believe it is near the bottom, around where the float bowl meets the carb body.. You need a straight small screwdriver (Short) facing upward.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Sep 23, 2009

SOURCE: carb puking gas

I had this same problem. What I discovered was the float needs adjusted on the carb. I set mine lower inthe bowl and it stopped the leaking. Reason for this happening is on hot days the fuel in the bowl will boil. This boiling action dumps in more fuel and the carb spits it out the air breather.

tombones

  • 3567 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 11, 2010

SOURCE: i have a sym jet

Lightly seat both screws then open each of them one and one half turns. This is the factory setting for Japanese bikes. Clean the air filter, install a new spark plug, I assume the Sym has a two stroke engine, mix the gas ans oil 32 to 1. That equals 4 ounces of two stroke engine oil per gallon of gas. NEVER use motor oil, only two stroke engine oil. Also, tighten all carb fittings such as mount bolts and clamps. Replace any rubber fittings if you see cracks. A cracked manifold will let air into the mixture which leans the mix and makes the idle rev upward.

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I bought a used 2001 Yamaha big bear 400 the bike had set up for a while with gas in the oil from a stuck float in the carb. I rebuilt the carb changed the oil and adjusted the valves. Checked the timing...

It seems the float level is not correct in the carburator float chamber, recheck and reset and also recheck the valve clearance and check the spark pulg gaps and also reset the air fuel mixture ratio.
when all done..run the engine to its normal temperature and than adjust the air fuel mixture screw...take it in slowly to the end taking care not to tight it toomuch to avoid damaging the tip of the screw and than go anti clock wise two and half turns to three....you will feel the engine running smoothly plus it or minus the air fuel mixture screw at this point to suit it.
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My service center told me that they are allowed only 2 of these adjuster per year. It has to do with the air quality issue. They don't want back-yard fixer-uppers to pollute the place up. True store - I could not believe it.

The BLUE wire-splice connector, the one that you crimp after you put a wire in each end, is supposed to fit snug around those screws and allow you to adjust them. However I could not get it to work.

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carb_jet_usage1a.jpg

For some reason everyone seems to think tuning a carb is just real easy. Change a jet or two and boom, your there. Yeah, right ! There are quite literally millions and millions of jet combinations. A rough check on Bing carbs shows there are at least 13,860,000 different combinations of jets. If you are going to change carbs you'd better be prepared to spend some time and money on the job.
venturi1a.jpgmainjet_1a.jpgIf you look at a carburetor, you will notice a rather large hole going from one side to the other. This is called a Venturi. Air passes into the engine through this hole (Venturi). As the velocity of the air entering the carb (and then the engine) increases, it's pressure decreases, creating a low pressure or vacuum in the venturi. This vacuum moves around in the venturi, as the throttle is opened, and sucks gasoline through the different jets in the carb. The gas then mixes with the air going through the venturi. The way the jets are made causes the fuel to vaporize as it goes into the venturi. Where the jets are placed in the carb and where the jet's outlet is located in the venturi, determines what part of the throttle opening that jet controls. The idle jet system (comprised of pilot air jet, pilot fuel jet and pilot fuel screw) controls from 0% to about 25% of the throttle opening. The throttle valve controls 0% to 35% of the throttle opening. The needle jet and jet needle control from 15% to 80% of the throttle opening and the main jet controls 60% to 100%. This means that when you open the throttle about one eighth of the way open, all of the gas/air mixture going into your engine is controlled by the idle jet. As you can see, the different jets over lap the operating range of each other. That is, the jet needle starts to effect things before the effect of the idle jet ends. This is something to remember when working on carbs... everything is interconnected. Change one thing and it will effect other things.
OK, let's go over the different systems in the carb and see what they do.
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  2. Pilot or idle jet system. The idle jet controls the idle and on up to quarter throttle, give or take a bit. On some carbs, like Mikuni there is an air jet too. In conjunction with the idle jet there is an idle jet air screw. This screw leans or richens the fuel mixture for a smooth idle and on up to one quarter throttle. From the idle jet, there are little passages cast into the carb that lead to holes just in front of the throttle valve or plate. There can be just one hole or there can be several, depending on the carb design. They effect the mixture as long as the vacuum, in the venturi, is over them. As the throttle opens further, the vacuum moves to the needle jet and jet needle.
  3. The Throttle Valve. The big slide that opens and closes your throttle has a bevel angle cut in one side of the big round (can be flat, too) slide, toward the air cleaner. This angle comes in several sizes and helps control the fuel mixture from idle to about 35% open throttle.
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  5. Jet Needle. This is the needle that rides in the throttle slide and goes into the needle jet. This needle controls the fuel mixture from 20% to 80% open throttle. It can come in many different sized tapers. Sometimes, one needle can have several tapers on it. The top end of the needle has grooves cut in it, usually five, and you can move the little clip on the end up or down to lean (down) or richen (up) the mixture. Most late model bikes have needles with only one groove cut in them. This is so you can't richen the mixture, thereby keeping the EPA happy.
  6. Main Jet. This jet controls the fuel mixture from 60% to 100% open throttle.
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95' Yamaha Virago 535 will start but will not stay running. Sounds like running on 2 cy. Fresh gas & carbs rebuilt. Was told the elect. fuel pump ''is going bad''. I can drive it down the street but if...

Did you try to increase the idling adjustment screw?
Check the spark plugs for its condition and thn reset the air-mixture screw.
Standard procedure for setting air-mixture screw...tight it all the way in, taking care to not over tighten or the tip of the screw may be damaged, thn turn outwards 2 & half to 3 turns, start your bike's engine ,run it to normal temp. and the reset the screw + - alittle either way and you should notice the difference in the idling and all.
Its better too, to also check the valve clearance !
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Choke is working only has 5000km on bike and once bike warms up it loads up wih fuel and then dies out all ports are clean i tore the carb a part 3 times what should the fuel|air screw be set at.it must be...

It seems the carb/s flooding with fuel and thus it dies, try to reset the float pin and get the correct level of the fuel in the float chamber.
Standard procedure for air-mixture screw setting is u take the screw right in slowly taking care not to over tighten it as it may damage the tip of the screw.
Warm up your bike's engine and thn slowly turn anti clockwise the air-mixture screw to about 2 & a half turns and observe the engine's idling.
Before you attempt this setting(air-mixture) its better too, to replace the spark plug and set the gap to the specs of your bike's engine and check and adjust accordingly the valve clearance.
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I have an 1998 xr250. it ran great and very strong up till today when i decided to clean the air filter (it was very dirty). after cleaning i put it in the bike to see how it ran. the bike would hardly...

There are two causes of your problem that I can think of: firstly, it may be that you, even after changing some jets, haven't got the air/fuel mixture right. If i were you, I'd put the standart jets back in, set the needle position to the middle position, and screw the air/fuel mixture screw 2,5 rotations ( 900 degrees) out from fully screwed in. This should return your bike's mixture settings to approximately standart. Then, using this page http://www.dansmc.com/spark_plugs/spark_plugs_catalog.html
determine if you have a rich or a lean mixture, and adjust accordingly. If you have any more questions, or would like me to clarify something, please ask.
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