NEED INFO ABOUT ADJUSTING WINDAGE & ELEVATION ON MY MILLETT SP2 RED DOT. I LOST OWNERS MANUAL &NEED TO KNOW WHAT EACH CLICK IS EQUAL TO AT 100 YDS

Less than 1/4".

The scope reads .75" @ 100 yards

I know about classic scopes... (not so much)
DOT, red or electro ...??

Besides under the windage and elevation adjustment (zero) screws... I can't think of a third "spring"...

Knob springs... perhaps ((but these "SPRINGS" are usually tempered steel compression washers)).

Try putting your model number with a search for "EXPLODED+VIEW"

Hope this helps.


Go to Bing homepage

Simply put, the Mil-Dot is a way to estimate range with the scopes reticle. This type of reticle was developed for military applications. The space between the dot centers is equal to one milliradian (Mil). hence the name mil-dot. One Mil equals 3.6" inches at 100 yards, or 36" at 1,000 yards. To use this system effectively you must know the size of the target. For instance most people are an average of 6 feet tall or 2 yards. The formula used for determining range to the target is (size of target x 1000 divided by number of mils the target covers). Hope this helps FixYa up.

No, that doesn't sound stupid. It's always a good idea to get all the information before using firearms and their accessories, and I'm happy to help:

The large knob on top of the scope is the rheostat, which is used to turn on the red dot, and adjust the brightness. It can be adjusted from "1" (dimmest) to "11" (brightest). You'll have to be looking straight down the scope to see the red dot, since it is only visible when you're aiming. If you turn on the scope to the brightest setting, and you look through like you are aiming, and the red dot is still not there (or very dim) then you probably need to replace the battery. It uses a 3 Volt coin-style lithium battery, type 2032. Unscrew the battery compartment on top of the rheostat and put the new battery "+" side up. Then replace the battery cover, and you should be good to go. Turn off the scope when you're done to save the batteries.

Since you bought the rifle with the scope already installed, it's probably already sighted in, or pretty close to being sighted in. Adjusting the windage and elevation on the red dot scope works just like other rifle scopes. The knob on top moves the point of impact up/down, and the knob on the side moves left/right. For this model, each click of adjustment moves the point fo impact by 1/2" at 100 yds, 1/4" at 50 yds, or 1/8" at 25 yds.

Be safe, and have fun!

yep,,,,lots of times,,,,,some scopes tell you were the shot will go,,,some tell you the way your turning the scope to point? it dont help do it?

The MOA is stamped into the top of the windage knob. I believe this relates to 1 klik = 1/4 " at x yrds. You won't know till you look at the MOA. I can't remember how it worked, but I know it's there. You can look this stuff up on line. Hope this helps.

Is that the "Prairie Master"? I think Simmons is pretty uniform in that range of scopes--elevation adjustment should be the top dial and windage is on the side. The zoom locking ring should be in front of the eyepiece, with the zoom ring just forward of that.

You can download a generic Simmons scope manual from the Simmons site at this link: http://www.simmonsoptics.com/downloads/manuals/archive/HSI_Simmons%20Generic%20Scope%20Adjusting%20Instructions.pdf

this is the way they are at high power,,, to set the scope up the easy way is clamp the rifle in a jig fire a round and were ever the round lands turn the turrets to put the red dot over the hit mark then fire another round at the target the bullet should be spot on the dot

I doubt if there is anything wrong with your scope.
The Baraska model A10810 Reticle adjustments are 1/8 ( 1/8 inch) MOA (minute of angle).
For instance, Look at the top turret (The ELEVATION Adjustment Knob). You will see that there are little vertical 'hashmarks' all the way around the knob starting with a '0' then a series of the verticle hashmarks, then a '1' and another series of the marks, then a '2' and so on. YOUR scope will have 8 of those vertical 'hashmarks' between each 'number'. These little 'hashmarks are referred to as 'Clicks' or 'Minute of Angle' adjustments.
Now imagine that you are set up on the 100 yard line and you have fired a round at your target, say a one inch diameter dot or any size for that matter, and the bullet strike was one (1) inch LOW and two (2) inches to the RIGHT and of course you now want your next round to impact in the target dot.
To bring your bullets point of impact UP to coincide with your point of aim (you have your 'crosshairs or RETICLES centered on the dot), you will be turning the TOP adjustment knob CLOCKWISE, ONE 'click' at a time. EACH one of those 'Clicks' will actually move the horizontal Reticle UP (Elevation) or DOWN 1/8 of an inch at a time. If the bullets point of impact was 1 inch LOW, you would need to turn the adjustment knob clockwise Eight (8) clicks which will equal ONE (1) inch.
Now you must adjust the knob on the RIGHT side of the scope. This one is the WINDAGE Adjustment knob which controls the VERTICAL Reticle and moves the point of impact Right or Left. This knob will also have the 'hashmark' increments around its perimeter and like the Elevation knob each 'Click' will move the Reticle 1/8 of an inch but in this case the Reticle and point of impact moves Right or Left.
Remember the bullets point of impact was 2 inches to the RIGHT. This means you must adjust the Reticle or point of impact to the LEFT so that your point of impact will coincide with your point of aim and will be in the target dot. Turn the adjustment knob COUNTER CLOCKWISE Sixteen (16) Clicks. Keeping your POINT of AIM (crosshairs centered on the dot), your next round should be inside the dot and you can then fine tune it from there.
As you can see from this example, the Reticle (crosshairs)and point of impact does not travel very far at all inside your scope at the 100 yard distance so it is not hard to imagine that you thought they were not adjusting to get you on target, when in fact they WERE adjusting, but in tiny increments.
Now, as you create more distance between you and your target, these 'tiny' increments and point of impact will be larger as your distance increases. For example, at 200 YARDS each 'click' will move your Point Of Impact 1/4 of an inch right,left,up, or down. So if your bullet point of impact was one (1) inch low from the 200 yd line you would adjust your Elevation Reticle 4 Clicks to raise your point of impact in order to be on target. At the 300 yd line each Click will adjust the point of impact up,down,right or left, ONE (1) inch.
If you wish, I would be happy to walk you through the 'ZEROing In' of your scope and rifle even if you do not have a Zero Bore Scope. With-in about 9 rounds you can be hitting where you are aiming instead of 'chasing' bullet holes all over the paper.
If you are interested, respond back and I will be glad to assist you. Enjoy. :)

I'm not sure how this got posted in the car audio section...

 

If the scope was manufactured by a well established company, you should be able to get a new cap from them.

 

If you cannot locate the manufacturer, you can move the other cap to the windage adjustment to set the windage. Then when you're finished, move the cap back to the elevation adjustment.

 

Even if you use it for a shooting discipline that requires constant adjustment, it's unlikely that you'll need to use the windage adjustment for anything other than setting the zero.