I recently changed the brake pads and rotors. in the process of changing them i bleed the brake fluid to push in the caliper. Soon after when everything back into place, we tested the brakes. the brake wouldnt stop the car only when u step the brake all the way down the car will slowly stop. we replace the brake booster, but not the master cylinder it still pumps, wat can be done to solve this problem??

If you haven't replaced the calipers or hoses there should be no need to bleed the system unless the brakes are spongy if that's the case overfill the master cylinder then loosen the bleeder screws and let gravity bleed it when the drips become constant tighten bleeders and try it, if no fluid comes out take the bleeder screw out and clean it out don't let the master cylinder get low if nothing comes out try pushing a wire in the hole, if it won't let any fluid out you will have to replace the caliper. You can also try to bleed the line at the caliper and see if that's enough. I hope this helps. Take care.

There are at least 2 items that will cause your problem. The first is when you changed the pads you place the caliper in a different place on the support pins that the caliper slides on to centralise the brakes on the rotor. These mounting pins are prone to rusting up and actually keeps one pad on the rotor as the caliper cannot centralise during brake application. The second is a problem that occurs when the brake fluid is pushed back into the master cylinder reservoir from pushing the piston back into the caliper. Muck in the lines is pushed back into the compensating ports in the Master cylinder causing the brakes to drag and build up pressure from the heat generated by having the brakes on. Try flushing out the brake system using metholated spirits or replace the master cylinder

brakes are brakes, push in , turn in, or two piece calipers. remove wheel , remove two bolts that hold caliper in place, remove replace pads if rotors look good if not remove caliper retainer and rotor replace or have resurfaced at local part store with service. if push in piston push in with c-clamp or piston tool, if turn in will be solid on top with slots for tool to turn in turn to right, tool can be gotten at parts store, if two piece take apart and put back then bleed brakes.

usually when this happens its caused by the caliber being push beyond its normale operating range or contaminated brake fluid. you should change the brake caliper and flush the brake lines with brake cleaner then bleed the system with new brake fluid

Hi there,

The pads are easy to change. You do not need any special tools. If there are no grooves in the rotors I would just put on new pads. Don't get cheap pads or they will squeek. I would strongly suggest that you flush out the old brake fluid. You will be amazed at how brown and gunky the old fluid is. Flushing the fluid regularly will help make your calipers and master cylinder last a long time. I like to use Valvoline Synpower brake fluid, it is a couple bucks more but it is DOT 4.

One last tip. When compressing the brake caliper piston you do not want to push the fluid back up to the system, because you might get some crud into the ABS module. Therefore, when compressing the piston, loosen the bleed screw to let the fluid flow out of the bleed screw.

This is how to get it done:

• Remove the old fluid from the master cylinder resevior with a turkey baster. Top up master cylinder with fluid.
• Remove the right rear wheel and bleed/flush the brakes with the old pads on. Top up master cylinder with fluid(important). Remove the caliper, open the bleed screw and compress the piston, close the bleed screw.
• Install new pad and caliper
• Bleed again. Top up master cylinder with fluid.
• Repeat on remaining 4 wheels RR, LR, RF, LF.

Glad to be of help!!!

will try to help. 1st remove the wheel, then remove the 2 caliper bolts that hold the brake caliper on. after removal of brake caliper, [it should just pull off after the 2 bolts are removed] replace the brake pads[be sure to apply anti squeal lube to the outer side of the pads..not the pad itself,the one not contacting the brake rotor] install the pads, the you will need a C clamp to push the brake caliper pistons back into the caliper. i've used this installation easily. use the old pad ,place it against the caliper piston,then apply the C clamp and push the caliper piston back into the brake caliper, then the brake caliper will slide back over the new pads easily, no need to bleed the brakes if you use this solution. replace the brake caliper bolts, then go to next side and repeat the process. after the replacement of the front brake pads,pump the brakes with engine running!!! it's really a simple process. be sure the brake pads are facing the brake rotors with the [pads] facicing the rotors. no metal facing metal. easy! if you have added brake fluid recently, do not be alarmed if you see fluid coming out of the brake master cylinder,when you use the C clamp to collaspe the brake caliper back into the recessed position. [as always when you have to add brake fluid to the brake master cylinder,it only means your brakes are wearing naturally. if you have a vibration in front wheels or steering wheel when braking, you have a brake rotor or both front brake rotors that need replacement with your brakes also. hope this helps and as always, please get a second opinion if you have doubt. an expert will be happy to help. thank you for choosing fixya.com

you can loosen the bleeder valve and then use a C clamp to press it back in and then retighten the valve, You will lose a little fluid but will not need to re-bleed the lines.
Please vote if this helps

Normally, unless the caliper is not functioning or leaking brake fluid you don't have to replace it.
Replace the rotors and pads only.

Replacing brake pads involves pushing the pistons all the way back into the the caliper. This will force fluid up into the master cylinder. Sometimes it also allows some air to get past the piston seal and cause 'soft' pedal. In this case bleeding is required. Anyway the brake fliud should be completely changed by pressure bleeding at this time.

Antilock brake systems don't like fluid pushed back through the system.

You should follow good standard practice, by blocking and ensuring the car is stable and safe.

When the wheel is removed, clamp off the flexible brake fluid line. When you push he caliper back to change the pads, do it with the bleed screw open and catch the fluid that comes out. When the caliper is fully depressed, close the bleed screw up. Change the pads, ensure you put anti-squeel on the outter surfaces. Inspect the clips, ensure they are all seated properly.

Check the runout on the rotor, make sure it's not warped. Get them turned or replace them as necessary.

When done, reinstall everything and remove the clamp.

Start the truck, pump the brakes a few times to get fluid back to the front calipers. Inspect the fluid level in the resivoiour to ensure enough fluid is there.

Do some safe test brakes to ensure all is ok.